Question about Ackley Improved

I have been using AI's for over 40 years of various types but none of them were built from scratch. I found it a good way to improve the performance of existing rifles without spending a lot of money. I had a custom Mauser in 8X57 which I wanted to hunt moose with so I had it recut to 8-06 AI and it did the job very well. My favourite sheep rifle was a 7-06 AI (predecessor to the 280AI) and probably the best conversion I ever did was change a .308 to 30-06AI. The .308 was on a standard action and rechambering to 30-06 would have meant a barrel setback, but not with AI. Forming brass was usually easy, except when the gunsmith cuts the chamber a little long, which happened. Then it's just a matter of necking the firearm case up a caliber and resizing to create a false shoulder so you still get a tight fit in the chamber. Performance improvements vary. I got an extra 150fps from the 30-06AI, maybe a 100fps from the 8-06AI and about 70fps from the 7-06AI. In hindsight I don't know if it was worth the effort but in those days we didn't have all the choices we have today. I still hunt with the 30-06AI because it is such a sweet gun to carry and some of the new powders really heat it up, but they do the same with my regular '06's as well.
 
257 AI was one of my favorites, started with 257 Roberts factory and target practiced to get it fireformed, after that I used a FL resizer backed up 1/4 turn for loading. No worries, just watch the case OAL and after about 3 reloads be careful if you see a shiney ring above the base that indicates possible thinning and potential case head separation. Doing the same with my 7x61 S&H and 338-378 KT, making brass by FL sizing, trimming, fireforming (to be consistent) and then loading for hunting. It's a bit meticulous but takes you to new reloading horizons. And lets not forget the 22 Cheetah Mk-2.
 
I've got a couple 7x57AI's and fire forming with factory loads produced very good grouping with PPU and Hornady. The load I settled on puts a 160 accubond at 2835 with a 23" barrel and shoots .75 moa. Comparing an Ackley version of the 7x57 to factory isn't very fair since the factory loads are very mild due to the old chambering, but I'm happy with the performance of the cartridge.
 
Yep, factory loads are generally made for rifles made prior to WW ONE! Today, things would be much different as my Win M70 7x57 can take modern loads without issue but, where do I find them if I don't handload? I am tempted to AI it but, it is such a lovely shooter I have been hesitant to touch it.
 
Yep, factory loads are generally made for rifles made prior to WW ONE! Today, things would be much different as my Win M70 7x57 can take modern loads without issue but, where do I find them if I don't handload? I am tempted to AI it but, it is such a lovely shooter I have been hesitant to touch it.
One of mine is a lightweight semi custom 700. The other is a beautiful pre-64 M70 that wasn't original so I "let her have it", and had some fancy wood, rust blueing done.

Sorry, off topic! It's kinda like showing pics of the kids!
 

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While fireforming brass for a 7 Sherman Short mag (40deg shoulder, reduced taper like an AI) I shot a 1000yd range record and won two matches back to back to earn a High Power Rifle Long Range High Master classification. If I had to use fireforming loads to shoot a big match in the future I would not be overly concerned about the precision of my load. That is the beauty of AI cases; they are almost/as precise fireforming (if you do a proper load development) as when fully formed. You can also shoot factory ammo in a hunting rifle if you get in a pinch.
 
I have a question to add to this topic.

Once you have formed brass through whatever method, what method can you use to reload it? For example I have the standard die set to load my factory spec rounds to shoot and form to improved. Can I then use say a Lee collet neck die to size just the neck then seat a bullet with my standard seating die in order to get to 3x fired brass to send off for a custom die set?

This has been the part of the process I have been hung up on in deciding if I want to go improved or not on my new build. I know I can get custom dies made based off my reamer print but Whidden says the best way is by 3x fired brass and if I was going to go this rout and spend the extra money I would want to do it the best way. But how do I get to 3x fired brass without the custom dies to begin with?

Thanks for any help guys
 
I have a question to add to this topic.

Once you have formed brass through whatever method, what method can you use to reload it? For example I have the standard die set to load my factory spec rounds to shoot and form to improved. Can I then use say a Lee collet neck die to size just the neck then seat a bullet with my standard seating die in order to get to 3x fired brass to send off for a custom die set?

This has been the part of the process I have been hung up on in deciding if I want to go improved or not on my new build. I know I can get custom dies made based off my reamer print but Whidden says the best way is by 3x fired brass and if I was going to go this rout and spend the extra money I would want to do it the best way. But how do I get to 3x fired brass without the custom dies to begin with?

Thanks for any help guys
The Lee Collet Die will work but the Bullet seater won't
 
.257 AI / Roberts being built on 1909 Argentine w.an ORIGINAL P.O.Ackley barrel 4 groove. The barrel looks like its been fired little-mo land or groove erosion under a scope. Thoughts on the best fireform processes / brass
 
Use AI loads and do load development. Cases will be very full in some instances.

On second firing with formed cases the loads might have to be adjusted slightly.
 

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