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Proper way to use a Kestrel in long range hunting

Yes, I have read the book also. You might want to read it twice. The statement that the wind is most important at the point you are standing is not an all inclusive statement. To imply to the OP that he can buy a kestrel, go hunting, hold it above his head to get a wind reading and that will produce the correct wind hold for a long range shot is just wrong. Simple example for you. You are stalking along a ridge, kestrel says there is a 3 mph wind where you stand. Is that what you would use thinking that's the most important reading for a shot across a valley to the far side at 600+ yards? Hopefully not. There are so many other things to consider. Am I blocked from the true wind by trees or a ridge. What is the wind on the far side. How high is my bullet traveling across the valley and what could the wind gradient be at that height.
Again, my point is, sure you can look at close up wind signals, make a guess at what you think the wind is and compare it to a kestrel reading, WHERE YOU STAND, but that may or may not not be the correct wind call for a long range shot.
Yes lots of sport shooters and hunters carry kestrels. Probably very few know how to properly use them. Even guys that do know how to use them, use them for hold over information and effects in changes in DA or environmentals during the day. But if you are dependent on a kestrel to give you a correct wind call for every long range shot while hunting, you are going to be disappointed and you are going to spend a lot of time pulling out your kestrel and trying to get it to figure wind speed ( which probably won't be correct any way). What if the wind direction changes 30 degrees. What if the animal walks 100 yards to the left before you get a clean shot. What if the wind is variable and gusting now. How about this, what if your batteries die on a once in a life time hunt and the shot has to be taken now.
Are you seriously going to stop, pull out your kestrel and stand there with your arm up trying to figure out the correct wind speed.
I get everybody has to read and then think they have the answer. But if you don't know why that answer didn't work, you will never learn.
 
Skip Todd and go directly to weaponized math on SniperHide.
Lots of good discussion from people who actually know what they are talking about. It might take several readings to understand the concepts and the math but you will gain a whole new better understanding of wind calling.
 
Skip Todd and go directly to weaponized math on SniperHide.
Lots of good discussion from people who actually know what they are talking about. It might take several readings to understand the concepts and the math but you will gain a whole new better understanding of wind calling.
Are you saying Todd Hodnett doesn't know what he is talking about?
 
Are you saying Todd Hodnett doesn't know what he is talking about?
Not at all. The comment was meant to say that the discussion/ threads of weaponized math on SniperHide was lead by several guys who really/actually know what they are talking about (as compared to a lot of threads on the internet that just make no sense). It was not meant to say TH does not know what he is talking about. Both discuss many of the same ideas (speed drop, mph gun, etc.) I just felt that for the OP to begin to understand these ideas, the SH threads was a better place to start.
 
Back in the M14 days, this is what was used mostly. I did just to calibrate wind flag for the day especially for the morning damp flags or rain soaked flags in heavy winds. We shot rain or shine as long as there were no lightnings. Nothing fancy, no batteries, inexpensive, and they work. Don't get me wrong, I have a 5700, out in the field I still carry the Dwyer in case the 5700 dies.


I am confident with either system.
 
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Yes, I have read the book also. You might want to read it twice. The statement that the wind is most important at the point you are standing is not an all inclusive statement. To imply to the OP that he can buy a kestrel, go hunting, hold it above his head to get a wind reading and that will produce the correct wind hold for a long range shot is just wrong. Simple example for you. You are stalking along a ridge, kestrel says there is a 3 mph wind where you stand. Is that what you would use thinking that's the most important reading for a shot across a valley to the far side at 600+ yards? Hopefully not. There are so many other things to consider. Am I blocked from the true wind by trees or a ridge. What is the wind on the far side. How high is my bullet traveling across the valley and what could the wind gradient be at that height.
Again, my point is, sure you can look at close up wind signals, make a guess at what you think the wind is and compare it to a kestrel reading, WHERE YOU STAND, but that may or may not not be the correct wind call for a long range shot.
Yes lots of sport shooters and hunters carry kestrels. Probably very few know how to properly use them. Even guys that do know how to use them, use them for hold over information and effects in changes in DA or environmentals during the day. But if you are dependent on a kestrel to give you a correct wind call for every long range shot while hunting, you are going to be disappointed and you are going to spend a lot of time pulling out your kestrel and trying to get it to figure wind speed ( which probably won't be correct any way). What if the wind direction changes 30 degrees. What if the animal walks 100 yards to the left before you get a clean shot. What if the wind is variable and gusting now. How about this, what if your batteries die on a once in a life time hunt and the shot has to be taken now.
Are you seriously going to stop, pull out your kestrel and stand there with your arm up trying to figure out the correct wind speed.
I get everybody has to read and then think they have the answer. But if you don't know why that answer didn't work, you will never learn.
I never use my kestrel for wind unless I'm studying the wind in places I'm not familiar with. Living on the east coast wind usually isn't ruff enough that I can't just use mirage. I think for hunting ranges mirage is a better wind identifier than trying to use a kestrel just my .02
 
I never use my kestrel for wind unless I'm studying the wind in places I'm not familiar with. Living on the east coast wind usually isn't ruff enough that I can't just use mirage. I think for hunting ranges mirage is a better wind identifier than trying to use a kestrel just my .02

Mirage is good (I rely on it for the most part) till the wind crosses into 15 MPH, then it is sort hard to read.
 
The best method is to learn to read the wind manually. A kestrel will only give you a wind reading where you stand. In a hunting situation this is generally worthless due to slopes, valleys, trees, creeks, open areas, bullet flight, etc.
Learn to estimate the wind yourself. It is the only way you will understand the why's of how a kestrel works and then how to use it as a tool. It is not an answer.
The wind at you is there most important wind since it's effect is over the most distance, you have to NAIL the wind close, be decent in the mid range and the end you can all but ignore.
If you learn how to use the full range of a Kestrel you can us it and be very accurate but you have to shoot the areas and know your ques. In my area you get very few visual ques but if you listen you can pick up the wind changes and with the basic kestrel use to get the starting baseline you have a tight wind call!!
 
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Here is a good guide using your surroundings when all instruments fail.

Screenshot_20220816-113501_Samsung Notes.jpg


In matches before going in position especially in the rapid fire event at 300 yards, if loose dirt is available I would grad a little and throw it in the air to gauge direction. If on grassy area grab a handful and do the same.

With the wind estimate and direction, crank the rear sight and drop into position.
 
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Back in the M14 days, this is what was used mostly. I did just to calibrate wind flag for the day especially for the morning damp flags or rain soaked flags in heavy winds. We shot rain or shine as long as there were no lightnings. Nothing fancy, no batteries, inexpensive, and they work. Don't get me wrong, I have a 5700, out in the field I still carry the Dwyer in case the 5700 dies.


I am confident with either system.
I'm always looking for analog ways to use, batteries die. Thanks for this one!
 
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