Problems with CCI-BR4's

[okie man]

I store my rifles with the bolts pulled out! I store mine a little wet and don't want oil in the bolt or trigger assembly .

 

[crkckr]

There is no need to dry fire to release the tension on a FP spring. Making sure the rifle is empty (or at least pointed in a safe direction) with the bolt open, pull the trigger and while holding it, close the bolt. It will not cock. I store all my bolt guns this way.

OP, it sounds like spring problem, assuming your primers are seated properly. Take the bolt apart & if there's nothing obvious, replace the spring. If the spring has lost tension, eventually you'll have the same problems with the thinner cupped primers.
Cheers,
crkckr

 

[Oldtime Shooter13]

I have not experienced a FTF in my 40 years of reloading. I have used every primer manufactured in rifle, shotgun and pistol reloading. Since I never experienced FTF I can only give advice on what I have done since taught when I was a young kid. I Agree with Backcountry Sports, but take a step further. I have always confirmed firearm is unloaded and discharged firing pin spring before storing away. No need to dry fire, pull trigger when closing bolt and the spring pressure is released. I use snap caps in my shotguns and automatic weapons to discharge spring. I like to store my firearms wet (light oil in barrel) and store my firearms barrel down in my safes so oil residue does not run into bolt assembly, action and trigger.

 

[MNbogboy]

Sounds like you have probably covered these bases but here are things I would double check.
Are FTF primers dented as normal?
Is this accutrigger? ...no malfunction here like trigger rubbing sear?

Recent rebarrel? Headspace may be good with gauges but have you matched your die bump settings to new chamber also?
Also any recent brass change? Pockets uniformed to same depth? Primers seated to same depth (and/or crush)?
Btw Savage pin setting .035-.055... I set mine. 040-.045 (lock tabs approx. .009)
Then a few oddballs problems...
1. Bolt head retaining pin..cracked?
2. Bolt BAS screw loose?
3. Gum/rust/crud in bolt & go spring?
4. Sear pin walked out & out of place on one end?
5. Front action screw rubbing bolt head lug? Slight interference hard to feel but misaligns case, bolt head & fp....sharpie test finds this with case in chamber.
6. Never experienced a weak savage fp spring but certainly is possible. Has it or bolt been modified to relieve "lifting" force?.....if it has firing pin travel may have been reduced....the hard cups in your batch may have put reduced strike "over the edge".

Hope you get it figured out,
Randy

 

[Barrelnut]

I would switch to Federal primers until your smith can go through spring and such. Like others said, Federal primers have softer and thinner cups. Just switching to Federal primers has solved the issue when I have seen it before.
Check the primer dimension chart below:

 

[John Klingenberg]

Pull the bolt apart and clean it. A little flake of anything floating around in there could be your problem.

 

[R.Morehouse]

I use BR-4's all the time. I use a 21st Cent. primer seater and I have a gauge for measuring my primer seating depth. I seat BR-4's 8 to 9K deep......They ALL go bang.

Regards
Rick

 

[Reloader222]

The cheapest answer is to change to Federal Primers. They go "bang" much more easier than any other brand of primer. And the benefit of Federal is that they are consistant and produce low Standard Deviation.

 

[okie man]

I never overlook a potential firearm issue! Springs are cheap!

 

[Jeremy Walbert]

I was having a similar issue about a year ago. A gentleman at the range was having the same issue. Come to find out we both had the same lot #. 1-2 out of 20 would ftf. I finally loaded up up ar plinkers with them.