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Problem gun

Having a hard time finding a good picture of your rifle's action. It appears that there is a blind hole for the rear action screw. If so check to see if the action screw is bottoming out. It can be caused by bedding material in the hole or an action screw that is too long.

I keep this check list in my documents on chasing down issues with rifles:

Check action screw hole for epoxy some action screws can bottom out in a blind hole

Leupold windage style base windage side screws not tight

Ruger rings not in recesses

Forward screw of front scope mounting base touching threads of barrel shank keeping base loose

Poor crown, optimal way is to check with bore scope

Action screw holes in stock too small, drill larger so sides of action screw won't touch

Bolt handle touching stock

Mag box must not bind

Recoil lug making early contact in bottom of bedding (rocking action)

Trigger group must not touch stock

Trigger guard must not touch trigger

Uneven bedding--- tightening one action screw to see if the action pulls up at other end.

Action screws properly torqued

Barrel having adequate clearance where it is supposed to be floated

Clean bore
Good list!
One thing I do after a fresh bedding cures is to check stress with a dial indicator.Put arm attached to barrel and dial indicator pin on stock and tighten each screw and see how much stress you have in the freshly bedded stock.Folks say anything below .006 is ok but I don't accept anything above .002
 
I have only had a couple. Guns that refused to group consistently. One, I fixed by re-crowning. This one is causing some head scratching.

300 Win Mag, Winchester CRF mod 70, Shilen barrel, McMillan A3 stock, Leupold VX-6, 3-18x56.

I have tried RL-22 and H4831SC. 190 Nosler Custom Competition (identical to SMK), 180 Nosler Accubond and 175 Custom Competition.

Most groups are 1.2" or so. It will shoot a .5" then a 1"+ with the same load. No load has shot consistently good groups.

I'm shooting 3 shot groups, letting the gun cool between shots and shooting 2 other rifles.

This gun is a new build. Straight from the gunsmith.

Rifle is bedded.

More than adequate clearance between stock and barrel from 3" in front of tang.

Indoor Air conditioned 100 yard range.

I can make mistakes shooting, but this is not me. When I pull a shot, I know it and either don't count it or I can call it close enough to get an accurate measurement.

I'm shooting great little groups with the 7 mag 308 and 6.5 CM between crappy groups with the 300 WM.

I have played with seating depth, taking it all the way out to 3.535". Helps, but no consistency.

Ideas?
I kinda read through quickly, just for giggles, have you tried a lighter bullet just to see what it might do, say like a 150gr? I had a big .30 once, also in a 1-10 twist that wouldn't shoot heavier bullets, popped in a light bullet and it shot a cloverleaf. ??? Cheers
 
I kinda read through quickly, just for giggles, have you tried a lighter bullet just to see what it might do, say like a 150gr? I had a big .30 once, also in a 1-10 twist that wouldn't shoot heavier bullets, popped in a light bullet and it shot a cloverleaf. ??? Cheers
I haven't, but I'm going to if AZ's list doesn't produce any glaring faults in my rifles construction.
 
Someone mentioned to me that I should hold the barrel in one hand and strike the underside of the barrel about 6" from the action, three times, nice and hard (within reason). It's like a poor man's stress relieving method. He tried it on two guns. They went from 1.25-1.5" guns to .5" and .33" respectively.

Ima give that a shot too.
 
Exactly every time I buy a barrel I buy enough projectiles powder and primers to burn it out and then some if it's a Calibre that's good for 1200 I buy enough for 1500 + going to use them in the next barrel anyway
I'm a bit upset that I have run through 10-15% of my barrels life trying to get it to shoot.

I'm sure one of the diagnoses here will help. I appreciate everyone's answers. Even if it doesn't, I have learned a lot.
 
I'm a bit upset that I have run through 10-15% of my barrels life trying to get it to shoot.
Understandable……especially nowadays. After reading through this it sounds like you've given 'problem solving' a pretty decent shot and received some good advice here for additional investigation. However, I'd have to agree with @Rick Richard and @Hecouldgoalltheway. Before spending any more precious money on more/different components I'd first take it back to the Smith that did the barreled action…..that is 'if' he/they are as competent & trustworthy as you say.
 
Understandable……especially nowadays. After reading through this it sounds like you've given 'problem solving' a pretty decent shot and received some good advice here for additional investigation. However, I'd have to agree with @Rick Richard and @Hecouldgoalltheway. Before spending any more precious money on more/different components I'd first take it back to the Smith that did the barreled action…..that is 'if' he/they are as competent & trustworthy as you say.
It's good advice. I'm going to troubleshoot my work first. Don't feel like paying him to fix my mistakes, unless I'm out of options. Then, I'll send it back to him.
 
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