Primer piercing but weird

As far as the false pressure signs. Guys call me up and they see the little crater from the Remington and I ask them how is the round shoulder on the primer look. They say it's round and you know it's ok still. When you get a crater on a bushed pin them primers are flat.
So basically I just ignore the small cratering I get on remmies. Just like you ignore the ejector marks on Hornady brass. Dang someone shooting factory Hornady loads in a Remington must think they are about to blow up. Craters and ejector marks.
Shep
 
To much protrusion of your firing pin and light firing pin spring or worn out firing pin spring can cause blanking.
Shep
 
How can you look at one fired piece of brass given to you and determine your bolt needs to be bushed. You have no idea how hot the load was on that brass. Most remingtons will leave a small crater around the dent which means to much pressure on a normal bolt. But given the slop on remingtons firing pin you just live with it or pay to fix it.
Absolutely false that most Remington clones do this. Custom clones of a 700 are not going to have a loose firing pin fit. Most give you the option to have the small pin diameter also. This small pin will definitely help not to blank primers.
If your clones are that loose send them back. But I highly doubt they are.
Shep

I assume you were referring to my post?

I made an educated guess. I wont pretend to be a master reloader. But I knew the load that was used. It was well under every book max that I could find. Upon inspecting the brass there were zero signs of being over pressure, including an un flattened primer, minimal web growth, etc. However, the primer strike was nothing like I'd ever seen before (I dont usually load high pressure rounds) there was a substantial ridge around the firing pin indentation.

In every ladder test I have ever done with this rifle, including book minimum loads. I have seen the same ridge.


How many pieces of brass do you need to review before you decide if a load is over pressure or not? (Genuinely curious)
 
You didn't say you knew the load of the one brass that was given. That changes what I said. It sounded like the smith gave you a gun and one test fired brass. One piece of brass with large crater is all you need to see to know it's over pressure. So with all the new info given now it very well does seem that you should bush the pin. If it's that bad that you can't even work up ladders I wouldn't trust that a primer change will always be enough. When you see it with book minimum you got a problem.
But seriously one brass is over pressure I stop. That is all I need to see. I can't possibly think the next won't be over pressure too. Did you get the pin bushed.
Shep
 
I havent had the pin bushed yet. I'm still not sure I'm keeping the rifle. Need to put it in a different stock, as the current one just doesnt fit me well, then I'll decide if I like the rifle or not. It's too bad, it's a tack driver, but right now it just doesnt feel right.
 
That happens. I tell my customers once they find the stock that fits them right to stay with it. I have guys with many rifles I built them that are same stock and color combo. My favorite stock is the McMillan HTG. The most popular stock I build on is the McMillan's Hunter stock. It does have that awesome palm swell grip. If the rifle hammers bush the pin will not hurt your accuracy and then restock it.
Shep
 
Fed 205, cci 400 have thin cups, and 6 XC's run some pressure I found. I shoot palma brass in my 6 XC, never popped a primer using Rem 7 1/2's.

Velocity nodes in a 31" barrel are at 3050,3150, and 3250 with Sierra 107's using a RAS tunner. Brass lasts 8 firings on 3250 fps node, groups very tiny.

My Rem 700 does not have the bolt head bushed.

Many cases I shoot with small primers will pierce Fed 205, Win, and cci 400. Playing with different primers will change groups so you have to play with primer intensity for your load and primer cup thickness will come into play.

CCI 41 is a thick cup primer
CCI 450 is the hottest thick cup primer other than Wolf and Tula SR Mag primers
Rem 7 1/2 is a mag thick cup primer. I shoot the 7 1/2 with my loads, H4350 with the 3050 fps and 3150 node and R#17 with the 4250 fps node.

It is HARD to pierce a large rifle primer. You really have severe case of over size firing pin hole in the bolt head if you pierce a large rifle primer. I have seen the 257 Weatherby customs have large rifle primer crater that was incredible and none ever pierced.

As previously mentioned, going from LR primer brass to small rifle primer brass means a new load work up. I normally add .5g more powder going to a small rifle primer to achieve the same velocity, but that is like an old wives tale...trial and error with chronograph is where the rubber meets the road.
 
Yeah I really noticed the difference on my 6.5creed going to srp. Big speed difference between them but it could just be brass volume. I shoot lapua srp vs Peterson lrp. I use fed match primers first and then test cci450 and rem7.5 and the br4 in that order. I'm not partial to any one companies components I use what wins the most for me.
By the way my 257wbys have all been on 700s.
Shep
 
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