MOOSE39465
Well-Known Member
At 40.5 grains I didn't see any pressure signs at all. I wish I took a picture but I needed to get that brass ready for Friday.I'm seeing a lot of "flat" statements that may or may not be true for any given rifle. Yes, there are signs of pressure. No, there are no signs of pressure. Well, hogwash! Bear with me here, it's gonna be a bit of a trip!
There is only one use for factory ammo in my book, and that's getting a baseline on what your brass is going to look like after firing (plus you get some velocity data to beat!). I have rifles that always crater primers and I have rifles and pistols that always leave marks on the primers, as if the bolt or breech face were dirty. They aren't dirty, it's just the machine marks that get imprinted on the primer.
Extractor/ejector marks are another thing that a factory round will let you know about. I also have rifles that leave faint marks on the rim of the cartridge, just like in Mooses' picture. If you know for a fact that your rifle does that all the time, then you can be assured it isn't a pressure sign. But you *must* have something to compare to! I have factory (or low to mid range reloads) for each of my rifles and pistols so I have something to compare to. For instance, I have a S&W .357 that craters and flattens primers, even with mid range .38's! So I see flattened primers with all magnum loads, it's just something I expect.
A cratered primer can be one of several symptoms, from too much pressure (drop your load 2 grains and see if it still craters them. If yes, it's not a reliable pressure sign. If no... yep, you're getting close to max pressure with that primer) to a soft primer, to an oversized firing pin hole. Change primes to a harder brand and see if that helps.
This reloading stuff is mostly science but it's part voodoo, too! Weird and crazy things just happen at times, with no particular or obvious reason. The reason can usually be figured out (as in, "science the livin' 'ca-ca' out of it")... usually. And what seems logical often isn't!
Using reloading data from old books is ok for a reference but when it comes to minimum or maximum loads, you're taking your life in your hands, unless you have powder, primers and bullets from that era! Powders change over the years, get less or more bulky or powerful, faster or slower burning... so you should always use data that's the same age as your components.
There are very few flat statements you can make about reloading, especially when it comes to someone else's firearm & situation. Close, yes. Principles, yes. Theory, yes (a theory is something proven to this date but is subject to change with more information. A hypothesis is someones idea or best guess!) But flat statements can often come back to bite us where it hurts the most!
Moose, load up just one round with 2 gr. less powder and see if you still get the same signs on your brass (polish it up real nice so you can tell). And/or try a different brand of primer. You might also try loading a round, closing the bolt carefully, then eject the round and check for marks! I think these things alone might tell you lot more than all the conflicting ideas that have been tossed around in the last 7 pages! Someones going to be right and someones going to be close and someone is likely to be flat out wrong. But only you can actually figure it out for sure!
Cheers,
crkckr