Powder fouling from case lube?

[KYpatriot]

Yeah a standard FL die without expanding of some kind will give you a lot of neck tension. Probably 4 or 5 thousandths.

 

[FearNoWind]

But you are still expanding, just in a different step. I agree that using a mandrel die is better than draging the expander back thru the neck when sizing.

All I am trying to say is that to a new reloader who reads this, they might think that they should pull the expander out of their FL die & after sizing go straight to seating. Not a good idea in my opinion. Unless you are using a bushing die with proper bushing.

Rob

Looks like we're on the same road, just looking at the view from a different vantage point. As I see it, using the proper bushing die along with a properly sized mandrel provides optimum control over neck expansion so avoid overworking the brass.
I believe what you and I would want the newly initiated reloader to know is that the typical off the shelf resizing die compresses the neck too much and then, in the next motion, the expander ball expands it too much which overworks the brass. Properly sized bushing dies and mandrels reduce that overworking problem.
Just wanted to be careful not to inadvertently mislead the new comer.
Thanks .......

 

[oldfortyfiveauto]

Using Sinclair's expander mandrel setup I believe I'm getting a more consistent neck tension based on feel through the press. Not very scientific, but very noticeable when loading.

Case lube...One Shot and Dillion's lube only seem to work fairly well on smaller cases like 223's. 30-06 always seem to need something better like die wax. I've found Frog Lube to work great.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Looks like we're on the same road, just looking at the view from a different vantage point. As I see it, using the proper bushing die along with a properly sized mandrel provides optimum control over neck expansion so avoid overworking the brass.
I believe what you and I would want the newly initiated reloader to know is that the typical off the shelf resizing die compresses the neck too much and then, in the next motion, the expander ball expands it too much which overworks the brass. Properly sized bushing dies and mandrels reduce that overworking problem.
Just wanted to be careful not to inadvertently mislead the new comer.
Thanks .......

My overlying reason to not use the expander is of course to lessen the workhardening of the neck and of course not having to anneal that much. Conversely, I don't anneal calibers like 223 and 308, just toss /em after a few reloads. I've slowly replaced (as my wallet allows) all my fixes chamber dies with John Whidden bushing dies and I machine my own bushings.... nice to own a machine shop sometimes...

Using Sinclair's expander mandrel setup I believe I'm getting a more consistent neck tension based on feel through the press. Not very scientific, but very noticeable when loading.

Case lube...One Shot and Dillion's lube only seem to work fairly well on smaller cases like 223's. 30-06 always seem to need something better like die wax. I've found Frog Lube to work great.

I've stuck a few 223 cases before, I'm not immune to that. Easy removal though, I just run a drift down the neck and position the die on the bed of my broaching press and extract the case, hydraulically.

I've found the very best indicator of seating effort as related to neck tension when using any sizer die or seating die is an inch pound torque wrench affixed to the operating linkage of a press and you can adapt one to any lever press. I use the wrench always, not just for seating but as an indicator of how much effort it takes to size as well.

If I had the inclination, I could probably do a comparison test of different lube products related to sizing effort. I use a calibrated Snap-on dial wrench that also has a clicker release. Not cheap but very accurate.

On the Rockchucker, I made an adapter from a steel block, with one end turned and threaded to fit the threaded boss in the press linkage and then broached a 3/8" square hole at 90 degrees relative to the centerline of the threaded section. That way, any 3/8" square drive tool can be used, from an ordinary breaker bar to a torque wrench.

I believe you can buy adapters commercially, I've seen them on the net, just cannot remember where.

Primarily I use mine to seat with to get consistent seat depths.