Case lube removal

[pdog shooter]

Can you flesh out that last sentence? What kind of oil and where do you apply it?
Thanks

Now this is for me. In general I dont have reloading problems.
After sizing (thats a 2 die process) I dip the necks in Kroil and run a drill bore brush in and out a few times and then mandrel while oil still in neck.
Kroil cleans and washes out easily, might not be the best lube for the mandrel but I use a bushing neck so very little expansion needed.

 

[Pootyng]

I'm having very similar results working up loads with a 300 wsm. Stuck case popped primers and no spike in velocity. One issue was not bumping the shoulder back enough and the other I believe was lube and media from sizing and tumbling. I was well below max with H4381SC Hy100 and H1000. I resolved the sizing issue and still had random stuck cases and popped primers. I sized and tumbled then I noticed media stuck at the bottom (rice&lube)of a case. So I went through every case and noticed a more that needed the media dug out. I'll follow up with this thread after I go back to check where I had pressures.

 

[Rflshootr]

Mud in your case will raise pressure every time!

 

[hoot1848]

Got a friend that started reloading about a year ago. His goal is long range precision shooting. He's doing pretty good but has one (several) reoccurring problems that I believe related. Hard bolt lift, stuck cases, and blown primers. We have varified powder charges, chamber measurements, die adjustments annealing. trim length, and others that I cant remember right now. Heck, we even changed out the barrel.
There is one subject that keeps coming to mind and thats his method for final case cleaning. He wipes with a rag and assumes that if a sharpie will write on it then its oil free. He says that eric cortina or somebody does it that way. I have had pressure problems in the past due to petterson fat brass but we (long range hunting crew and myself) figured that out pretty quick.
I wash with a strong degreaser and heat gun dry
Would like some input from you guys as for your final cleaning.

I # 1 decapp # 2 sonic clean using Lyman brass cleaner for 30 minutes # 3 dry with heat gun #4 anneal # 5 into tumbler using corn cob media for 3 -4 hours # 5 wipe down with clean cloth and inspect in that order the brass comes out looking new and I hope this helps looks like you are covering just about everything im curious to see how others do their cleaning have a safe week

 

[Lenny Foffa]

No Willys , I May have typed it in wrong. I though I said , I resize and De Prime , then put them in the wet tumbler!! I see my typo!!! I apologize. I would never put primed cases in a wet tumbler. I will Proof read more carefully in Future . 1. Anneal Just fired cases.
2. Resize and de prime cases. Wipe Royal Lube wax off cases with carb cleaner.
3 Wet Tumble till clean .
4 Allow to dry and examine and measure clean cases. ( Go/No-go Primer pocket gauges used at this step)

Thats what I was trying to say. !! I'm sorry if It didn't come out correctly. Please feel free to criticize. I expected a bunch of that. My closing line spoke to all who will find fault in my personal case prep process. No one says you have to do what I do. !!!

 

[pdog shooter]

No Willys , I May have typed it in wrong. I though I said , I resize and De Prime , then put them in the wet tumbler!! I see my typo!!! I apologize. I would never put primed cases in a wet tumbler. I will Proof read more carefully in Future . 1. Anneal Just fired cases.
2. Resize and de prime cases. Wipe Royal Lube wax off cases with carb cleaner.
3 Wet Tumble till clean .
4 Allow to dry and examine and measure clean cases. ( Go/No-go Primer pocket gauges used at this step)

Thats what I was trying to say. !! I'm sorry if It didn't come out correctly. Please feel free to criticize. I expected a bunch of that. My closing line spoke to all who will find fault in my personal case prep process. No one says you have to do what I do. !!!

happens to me all the time, especially the spell check, not even the correct word.
I was paid for my technical skills not admin.

 

[Orange Dust]

Got a friend that started reloading about a year ago. His goal is long range precision shooting. He's doing pretty good but has one (several) reoccurring problems that I believe related. Hard bolt lift, stuck cases, and blown primers. We have varified powder charges, chamber measurements, die adjustments annealing. trim length, and others that I cant remember right now. Heck, we even changed out the barrel.
There is one subject that keeps coming to mind and thats his method for final case cleaning. He wipes with a rag and assumes that if a sharpie will write on it then its oil free. He says that eric cortina or somebody does it that way. I have had pressure problems in the past due to petterson fat brass but we (long range hunting crew and myself) figured that out pretty quick.
I wash with a strong degreaser and heat gun dry
Would like some input from you guys as for your final cleaning.

I skimmed through all your replies and my best guess is the problem lies on the business end of the cartridge, somewhere between the base of the shoulder and the bullet tip. Since you tried two barrels with the same result, my first assumption is they were both chambered with the same reamer. Neck might be a little tight. You should be able to drop a bullet into a fired case and it fall in. If not, turn the necks, and also check your neck length. Reamer might be cutting neck length a little short. If bullet is not touching the lands, and there is sufficient clearance with the necks, the barrel might be a little tight in bore size. Have you chrono'd his loads? Remember, velocity is a function of pressure, and extra velocity amounts to extra pressure. The answer might simply be backing off the load. You might also try a powder with a different burning rate, but I'd wager the issue is somewhere in the above.

 

[gwcracker]

Start over with a clean slate, new brass, and start load. Note when the problems start and back off.

 

[Taylorbok]

There's something else going on here. What's the cartridge and the load?
Lube or incorrect sizing of the case is not enough to cause a safe load to be that much over pressure. Lots of people shoot with bullets jammed into the lands that's fine also. He's 100% over pressure, considering he's already cracked a bolt face he's not loading safely.

 

[Mike D Texas]

I use 91-99% alcohol to remove case lube.

As others have said, I don't believe case lube is your issue.

 

[tigerrose01]

Got a friend that started reloading about a year ago. His goal is long range precision shooting. He's doing pretty good but has one (several) reoccurring problems that I believe related. Hard bolt lift, stuck cases, and blown primers. We have varified powder charges, chamber measurements, die adjustments annealing. trim length, and others that I cant remember right now. Heck, we even changed out the barrel.
There is one subject that keeps coming to mind and thats his method for final case cleaning. He wipes with a rag and assumes that if a sharpie will write on it then its oil free. He says that eric cortina or somebody does it that way. I have had pressure problems in the past due to petterson fat brass but we (long range hunting crew and myself) figured that out pretty quick.
I wash with a strong degreaser and heat gun dry
Would like some input from you guys as for your final cleaning.

He isn't using mono bullets and then using loading data for cup and core bullets is he? I have seen several friends have issues similar to those that he has when they did that.

I agree with the others that it's not a lube issue.

 

[bpcrshooter]

why dont "YOU" try and load a couple up for him and see if the problem is still there? Id check bullet dia to barrel dia, just cause it goes in the chamber doesnt mean it will shoot. There aint no way a thin coating of oil is going to change your pressure to the point of blowing primers. could you post a pic of a few pics of brass that have been shot, that will tell us a lot about whats going on.


matt

 

[pavementends]

A lot of good advise. Hard breakover on the press? What matters is how the resized cartridge fits the chamber of the rifle you are loading for. Much can be learned with a Sharpe. Coat the loaded round and bullet, chamber it and look for scrapes indicating a tight, long, or bullet seated into the rifleing. (you do not need powder or primer in the case to do this) Does the rifle have issues with factory ammunition? If not the issue my be with the sizing die. I have seen some that had to have a bit taken off the bottom to fully size the case. I would start at the beginning, factory load O.K. then insure case is sized correctly, then starting load from a good manual and go from there.
Kind regards

 

[pdog shooter]

Here's a different point of view from "primal rights". Now I know this guy riled a few of us in the past but he might know what he's talking about

Understanding Pressure :: Primal Rights, Inc

Reading pressure is a required skill that all shooters must have. Whether you are shooting factory ammunition or your own handloads, you absolutely must be able to detect and interpret pressure signs on your fired brass.

www.primalrights.com

Cleaning Solvents & Lubricants
Recently we received a rifle back from a customer whom was experiencing chronic pressure over-pressure. The issue was taking place regardless of ammunition used. While we expended a lot of effort to determine the issue over the phone, but could not lock down a cause. I instructed the customer to send the rifle back to us for evaluation. The problem was immediately apparent upon unpacking the rifle. It was dripping in lubricant. The bolt, trigger, bolt raceways, barrel, etc. All were completely covered in oil. This may not bother a semi-auto such as an AR15 in some situations, but it can be extremely dangerous on a bolt action. The reason for this is expressed in the previous paragraph. What is not always immediately apparent is how the transfer of cleaning solvents and lubricants make their way into the chamber. The most obvious sources are the bolt, magazine, and feed ramp. An oiled bolt will tend to transfer that oil to the next round in the magazine. When the bolt is cycled forward, it makes contact with the next round in the magazine along nearly its entire length. If there is a lubricant on the bolt, it will smear that lubricant down the cartridge. When that cartridge is cycled into the chamber, and fired, that lubricant will spread around and coat nearly the entire chamber. The subsequent round after will also be lubricated by the bolt, and be inserted into a chamber completely coated in lubricant by the previous round. Water is quite slick, but lubricants are very much more so! This will almost always result in extreme pressure being transferred to the base of the case and through the action. This particular customer mentioned above did this enough to where you could actually see the words "Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor" imprinted on his bolt face, and the bolt face was permanently damaged due to blown primers. The blame for this could easily be laid on the ammo manufacturer if one were not aware of this lubrication issue. On a bolt rifle, lightly greasing the bolt lugs and other contact points that never come into contact with the ammunition is advised rather than using oil.

Cleaning solvents are also a prime cause for this kind of issue. When cleaning the bore of a rifle, many shooters do not use a bore guide that seals the chamber. This allows cleaning solvents to drip down the back of the chamber onto the barrel tenon/action joint as well as the front action screw. It's amazing just how that solvent can crawl around from there. It's not a good idea to expose bedding to solvents either. Make sure you control the flow of cleaning solvents when servicing your rifle.

As mentioned above in the section on water as well as this section about solvents and lubricants, if the brass is not allowed to grip the chamber walls properly, all of that pressure will be transferred to the bolt face. This can produce a "false positive" of sorts. You may be led to believe that your ammo or load is too hot, when in actuality it is simply a maintenance issue that is causing the problem.

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