Case lube removal

After sizing and repriming I wipe all cases with Spray Carburetor Cleaner, to get the major amount of Royal Case Lube Wax off the cases. THEN, they all go into the Wet Tumbler with the stainless-steel pins. Minimum amount 4 hours, Max time 8 hours . Clean and shiny . My ritual is very simple, Fire the rounds all from the same box so they are all the same weight and they all stay together. No Mixing up cases. Then come home and anneal them ; then resize and de prime them ; then toss them in the wet tumbler. Remove and allow to Dry , and Examine and Measure. Then load them. Simple and easy !!I'm sure there are better or more sophisticated ways to do this, but this method works well for me.
 
Without knowing his load data, chamber dimensions, etc. the most logical conclusion is that he's over-pressure for one or more of the conditions he's shooting in. (If everything with the reloaded cartridges triple-checks out, I'd have a look at the bore and check for a carbon ring or similar obstruction at the leade.)

Having said that, all my brass gets dry tumbled with walnut or corncob depending upon what I have available (sometimes an inexpensive automotive wax is used to keep the dust down.) Then the brass will be deprimed, resized, trimmed, chamfered and annealed as needed. Then, once the brass is completely ready for loading it will be wet-tumbled to remove any errant gunk from the cases.

But I'm kind of neurotic and like shiny things.
 
Like others have said the powder charge is probably too high. But there can be other factors that contribute to high pressures. Cases being too long, not all components matching the load data, and even not chamfering and deburring the cases.
 
After sizing and repriming I wipe all cases with Spray Carburetor Cleaner, to get the major amount of Royal Case Lube Wax off the cases. THEN, they all go into the Wet Tumbler with the stainless-steel pins. Minimum amount 4 hours, Max time 8 hours . Clean and shiny . My ritual is very simple, Fire the rounds all from the same box so they are all the same weight and they all stay together. No Mixing up cases. Then come home and anneal them ; then resize and de prime them ; then toss them in the wet tumbler. Remove and allow to Dry , and Examine and Measure. Then load them. Simple and easy !!I'm sure there are better or more sophisticated ways to do this, but this method works well for me.
Joking right? Wet tumble after priming? Carb cleaner? 4 to 8 hours with pins? None of this is good fwiw.
 
Sounds like more than a case lube problem.

I use rubbing alcohol applied with a paper towel while wearing nitrile gloves. After a wipe down of 50 cases or so the paper towel is real black - black stuff containing primer, powder & other residues not good for health. I clean cases before priming. Takes about 15 minutes to do 50 cases including case inspection.

This is more than a case lube problem:
" Hard bolt lift, stuck cases, and blown primers. We have varified powder charges, chamber measurements, die adjustments annealing. trim length, and others that I cant remember right now. Heck, we even changed out the barrel."
 
Got a friend that started reloading about a year ago. His goal is long range precision shooting. He's doing pretty good but has one (several) reoccurring problems that I believe related. Hard bolt lift, stuck cases, and blown primers. We have varified powder charges, chamber measurements, die adjustments annealing. trim length, and others that I cant remember right now. Heck, we even changed out the barrel.
There is one subject that keeps coming to mind and thats his method for final case cleaning. He wipes with a rag and assumes that if a sharpie will write on it then its oil free. He says that eric cortina or somebody does it that way. I have had pressure problems in the past due to petterson fat brass but we (long range hunting crew and myself) figured that out pretty quick.
I wash with a strong degreaser and heat gun dry
Would like some input from you guys as for your final cleaning.
Usually the neck mouth has a tiny burr from trimming it. You can barely feel it. A piece if steel wool to clean it then try it, or better yet; use a cartridge checker. If it goes in easy it will chamber too. Know your headspace.
 
Sounds like more than a case lube problem.

I use rubbing alcohol applied with a paper towel while wearing nitrile gloves. After a wipe down of 50 cases or so the paper towel is real black - black stuff containing primer, powder & other residues not good for health. I clean cases before priming. Takes about 15 minutes to do 50 cases including case inspection.

This is more than a case lube problem:
" Hard bolt lift, stuck cases, and blown primers. We have varified powder charges, chamber measurements, die adjustments annealing. trim length, and others that I cant remember right now. Heck, we even changed out the barrel."
All problems can be resolved. A 270 doesn't need to have a hot load! One of your problems.

Primers go in easy = throw away the brass.

Never mind annealing until you correct your process an problems.


Dirty brass ? Not that important. Annealing not important. 6 or 7 firings max for that brass.
Focus on full length sizing. Make a dummy round..Check headspace. Trim burr off on neck of casing. ( most 270s have this) keep your loads under hot. That's the way to do it. I been reloading the 270 since 1988.
 
unless there is case lube build up in the chamber I doubt its case lube. What is your definition of a blown primer? A fellow shooter at the range a few weeks ago exclaimed he was experiencing blown primers and hard bolt closure and opening. His primers had backed out, not blown. Come to find out he had used Cheddite primers when CCI200 were impossible to get, then went back to CCI's..... a definite no-no. The european primers are slightly larger than the american ones. Once installed they tend to make the primer pocket a little larger, especially after firing. Then the CCI"s don't fit like they used to and they can back out. The fact that he had a sticky bolt closing and opening pointed to a case sizing problem. Both of us were shooting .270win. I always have a dial micrometer in my range tool kit. My ammo chambered fine with no bolt problems, no primer issues, in his rifle. The measured distance from the base of the case to the shoulder was .001+ less than his. His ammo in my rifle gave me a hard to close bolt. He readjusted his sizing die and the next week his problems were gone. If the primers are truly blown, holes in them, burn marks etc then could be an overcharge issue, or if the cases were trimmed, maybe the little burr that is always left on the case mouth wasn't removed. The burr is on the inside and outside of the case mouth. Forcing the bullet into the case causes a case neck with a slight bulge that contacts the walls of the chamber neck and causes hard chambering, and with the extra constriction on the case neck holding the bullet much tighter there is likely an uptick in pressure, and no change in velocity will be evident.
 
Keep little baby aspirin bottle,filled with acetone, put a bit on 10 gauge cleaning patch of cotton flannel, just a quick wipe off. If the case lube is ur only problem there.
 
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