POI changing after bouncing on ATV

[D.Camilleri]

Ok, I loosened the action screws and started relieving the barrel channel more with cloth abrasives. I put the bipod on and loaded it and contact! I relieved some more to where when I load the bipod, I can still slip a dollar bill without resistance. Hopefully I got it now. My 0 cant rail should be here on monday, but I think I will go out and shoot this weekend just to verify. It seems the bipod leverages the front of the stock to bend towards the barrel where it won't happen without it. Go figure. I double checked my downward travel on my turret and once again my memory is off more than my scope. I have 9 moa of downward adjustment or 36 clicks. But I still can't see the vertical line on my turret so by raising the turret with the 0 cant base, I will at least be able to see exactly where my numbers line up at.

 

[westcliffe01]

Why so stingy with clearance ? I know it may not look so slick, but I like about 1/16" clearance between the barrel and forearm. Perhaps if the stock is super rigid 1/32 but I don't own anything that good. The last thing you need is a flyer just because you put an extra 5lb or 10lb of load on the forearm when in a stressful situation.

 

[D.Camilleri]

I am not being stingy with clearance, just tired of sanding. But I think it's good now, finally.

 

[bigngreen]

Did you have good clearance before? If so your bedding may not be stress free and will need to be redone.

 

[westcliffe01]

I guess I developed this attitude because every Remington rifle I bought shot like crap because of intermittent contact between the barrel and fore end. So after a bit all it took was 1 look and I got out my 3/4" hardwood dowel (about 3' long) with 80 grit belt sander paper glued to it. It makes opening up those barrel channels pretty fast work. On some of the plastic stocks (SPS varmint type) the stock itself was warped so that by the time you get even clearance one side of the fore end is sanded to a knifes edge. But no-matter, they all shoot great afterwards.

 

[D.Camilleri]

Did you have good clearance before? If so your bedding may not be stress free and will need to be redone.

Obviously not enough, but hopefully now it is. I should have ordered the stock for my heavier contoured barrel, it would have saved me a lot of sanding. I tested the stock this morning and with the bipod attached and loading it, I still have clearance. The bipod leverages the end of the stock because it isn't super rigid.

 

[D.Camilleri]

Got my new 0 cant Picatinny rail today, steel tps unit and guess what, it won't work with a left handed action! Back to midway it goes.

 

[bigbuck]

I guess I developed this attitude because every Remington rifle I bought shot like crap because of intermittent contact between the barrel and fore end. So after a bit all it took was 1 look and I got out my 3/4" hardwood dowel (about 3' long) with 80 grit belt sander paper glued to it. It makes opening up those barrel channels pretty fast work. On some of the plastic stocks (SPS varmint type) the stock itself was warped so that by the time you get even clearance one side of the fore end is sanded to a knifes edge. But no-matter, they all shoot great afterwards.

+1
I have floated the barrel channels of several Remys and It made the 600 dollar rifles shoot with the 1000 dollar rifles (with hand loads) . If a barrel has not been floated then you are wasting your time with load development IMHO . As for the bases If you have a faulty base then it want matter what quality of a scope you have it will only be as good as your base. Just my opinion....

 

[royinidaho]

I checked my zero after the ATV ride.

Vertical = spot on.
Horizontal = 2.5 MOA left. Oops! 2 moa of that due to not reseting the windage turret after last use. Dumb enough to not check it before the zero check.

The other 0.5 MOA could be due to usually heavier winds when setting zero initially. Zero wind when I rechecked.

D., Grit put me onto something. That is be cautious of barrel slap on the forearm if the brake has holes on top. I haven't experienced that problem as when I float the barrel there is no doubt that there is plenty of space between barrel and forearm.

 

[Pdvdh]

I've experienced changes in POI enough times over the years due to knocks, jars, lumps, and bumps on scoped rifles that I wouldn't travel with the rifle strapped to an ATV unless it was stored in one of the foam-padded, hard-shelled rifle cases. I've missed or wounded game or predators enough times due to POI changes that I do whatever I can now to protect my scoped rifles from any harsh impacts.

 

[Broz]

I do whatever I can now to protect my scoped rifles from any harsh impacts.

I agree with this. It is a precision rifle and needs to be treated as a precision instrument when ever possible.

Jeff

 

[D.Camilleri]

My last trip out, I used a hard sided foam padded case, keeps the gun nice and safe, but gun isn't available for quick access. As it turned out, elk were abundant and I didn't need quick access. Now trying to chase after coyotes, that is a different story. I am disappointed in my 0 cant rail being made for right hand actions and no note about it in the description. It is getting returned and I think I will just keep using the 20 moa base since it seems to be staying put. My barrel channel seems to be free enough now that I don't get any contact with normal movements of the gun with or without the bi pod, so I will go shoot again and see how it acts. Roy, my brake is a radial brake so hopefully there isn't a lot of whip, but what do I know. I tried opening up my holes in the break by .030 to help with recoil, but it didn't seem to make much of a difference. I guess shooting 300 grain pills at 2830 has it's draw backs, but I can't even imagine the 338 AM at 3300

 

[royinidaho]

I agree with this. It is a precision rifle and needs to be treated as a precision instrument when ever possible.

Jeff

Jeff,

I agree with this and have an appreciation for "when ever possible."

I'm thinkin' military sniper conditions and such stuff as drag bag use.

Many years ago my with my 1966 vintage self custom 270 Win across my back doing some chuck hunting in the lavas I tripped and landed across a wide crack in the rock. The rifle prevented me from falling into the crack.

Heck of a gouge on the barrel, gouges on the end bell of the VX-II and some gouges on the cheek piece. Talk about worry, I was full of it.

However the next chuck and most subsequent chucks for the rest of the afternoon were DRT. The rifle wore those marks for the next 35 years.

Much luck was involved I'm sure. Though I fully expect any rifle I have to withstand a decent fall as from leaning against a tree to good hard ground with no impact on POI.

Though I'm not gonna test it on purpose.