Welcome. No sir. That is before cleaning the neck area. Carbon rings and back of lug abatements are the only things I hate cleaning
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Pics of Carbon Ring?
- Thread starter Boomer51
- Start date
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bushmotornv
Well-Known Member
I think there is potential for a special tool here! Although I have no idea what it would look like,or how it would work. In the meantime,just soak and brush.
Buzzsaw
Well-Known Member
I will let you all know, The Thorough Flush system works REALLY good on carbon. Get it online. Google it. I believe its available at Bullet Central.
Buzzsaw
Well-Known Member
is the carbon ring "below" the "bright" area? rifling above it?
Here is what I found in my 300RUM. I have cleaned it using the method of a soaked patch sitting in throat then wrapping a soaked patch around a .30 bore brush and spinning it with cordless drill. After a few time of that and letting sit awhile with another soaked patch in the throat took a .338 caliber bore brush and spun it in the drill then patched it all out occasionally do a soaked patch till it can clean. Sounds like a lot but didn't take very long overall. I used Montana Extreme Bore cleaner since that is what I'm currently using. Been pretty happy with there product. When I get home I'll post the pics of the cleaned area. Just didn't download them to my google drive yet
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Yes sir. It is the black band below the bright reflection
I was recently thinking the same thing. And I thought, why not a reamer turned very lightly by hand. I realize this could be catastrophic, but seems like you should be able to feel the ring and very carefully clean it out. I haven't, however, had the guts to test my theory. Or maybe an old reamer that has been reground to allow you to just touch that ring. There's probably a thousand things wrong with this idea, but most can't be any worse than spinning a bronze brush at the beginning of your lands. I've seen the damage from that.
MNbogboy
Well-Known Member
I made some tools out of an old cases with extended necks that tackles both carbon rings for me. The rolled up patch is dipped in CLR. With care (not to get CLR on blued surfaces) the case is fed into chamber until the "long" neck stops against the end of the neck part of the chamber. The rolled up soaked patch continues into the throat area.
Gently twisting the "bent out" edges of the slotted neck scuff off the neck carbon that is also "wet" from the CLR. Then the tool is withdrawn and a brush can be used in the throat to rub off the CLR soaked carbon in the throat. When finished I "rinse" and wipe out the remaining CLR with kroil.
Bore cam before and after, works great for me. Caution when using CLR it will remove bluing (don't ask).
Buzzsaw
Well-Known Member
+1 on CLR, it works but rinse with alcohol and re lube
I'm not sure how you would damage your barrel with a bronze brush if using it properly. Steel is a little more then twice as hard as bronze to start with and was the standard for many years before they started producing nylon brushes. I would think that using a reamer would be far worse then bronze brush. I believe that most people that caused damage with a bronze brush were actually causing the damage with the cleaning rod itself. You would have to work pretty hard with the brush to impact the steel. I could be wrong, but I know that growing up we always used bronze brushes but was also shown the proper way to use it along with the appropriate rod. I do use nylon brushes these days and they work well so when i have to replace one, it's a nylon one that I get.
I've had good luck spinning a bronze brush in the neck. Plenty of room between the neck and the lands. Plus, you can feel the oversized brush in the neck and take some force to push it past. Just me though
The damage that I saw was done on a 22 LR. My friend was trying to remove a stubborn ring by soaking with a patch and then spinning a bronze brush to remove carbon. His borescope pics showed very clearly, that he had rolled over the lands at their beginning. I don't know how fast he was spinning the brush, but I do know that he understood the possibility of damage, even from bronze. Also, bronze is considerably harder than copper jackets and look what they do to a barrel over time.
Thanks for all of the info! I finally got to look at and clean a couple of my rifles. The first two pictures are of a .223 and 6.5 CM. The carbon rings weren't too thick and cleaned up pretty easily with Eliminator and a plastic bore brush on a drill.
The last picture is a carbon buildup in the shoulder of the 6.5. It was thick and very difficult to get out. Any idea what would cause it, or if it would affect accuracy? The 6.5 has about 400 rounds down it and none of them were very light. I never noticed carbon or powder deposits on the outside of the neck or shoulder after firing.
Thanks,
Jim
The last picture is a carbon buildup in the shoulder of the 6.5. It was thick and very difficult to get out. Any idea what would cause it, or if it would affect accuracy? The 6.5 has about 400 rounds down it and none of them were very light. I never noticed carbon or powder deposits on the outside of the neck or shoulder after firing.
Thanks,
Jim
