packgoatguy
Well-Known Member
No problem, I always enjoy talking about packgoats. I would post some photos, but Im new to this forum and I cant figure out how to get them from my laptop to the message. If anyone knows how, let me know
Pack Goats
- Thread starter adamsoa
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royinidaho
Well-Known Member
First post pics on Photobucket. A freebie
Then click on the pic in photobucket.
The window below will show the direct link (URL)
Click on that URL and it turn blue. Press <cntrl c> to copy the URL to the clipboard.
Then in the new post on LRH click on the postcard looking icon just above the message window. Looks like a mountain and moon.....kind of.
Click on it. A drop down window will appear.
Paste the url from the clipboard into that window and save or whatever it says.
The pic will appear in your post before you "send"/Submit......
packgoatguy
Well-Known Member
packgoatguy
Well-Known Member
packgoatguy
Well-Known Member
A few more pack goat pics
packgoatguy
Well-Known Member
Packgoats cross water fine
packgoatguy
Well-Known Member
If you can keep your total gear weight down to 50-75 pounds, I would think you should be fine with 4 to 5 goats. On the trip in you could spread the weight around all 4 goats, and then when you pack your game out the meat would be on 3 goats and the gear on 1 goat. I would assume that if you bone out the animal, you should have around 150 pounds of meat to haul out. I weighed the quarters of my elk this year, and the front quarters with the bone in were about 33 pounds each. The hind quarters were about 60 pounds each with the bone in. Taking the bone out takes off quite a bit of weight. If you plan on taking out the skin or cape, that can be quite heavy and might require another goat. If you plan on going into some really knarly country, you might limit each goat to 40 pounds each to be on the safe side, and that would also mean you would want to take an extra goat. I also like to have one free goat when possible. Lots of packers will have the free goat without a saddle, but I like to have the extra saddle on the free goat so that if I need to split up the weight a little better I still have the option. Basically you want to do the math as to how much you expect to carry in and out and then divide it by the 50 pounds each goat can carry. If you arent going to be that far in (say 2 miles or less of down hill trail) you can put some extra weight on if necessary. When I hauled my elk out, I was two miles in and it was all downhill, so I felt comfortable putting as much as 90lbs on each of my 200lb goats. This is the exception not the rule of course.
Its good to take a first aid kit, with some basic stuff to make splints for fractures, clotting agents for deep cuts, etc. Hoof care should be done at home. If the goats have some rocks and asphault to run around on at home, they should keep their hooves worn down properly. If not, you may need to trim them every 3 months or so. If you have the time to get them out for regular hikes and exercize through the year, you shouldnt have to worry about too much on the trail. I am thinking of starting up a 'goat timeshare' of sorts in my area, because there are lots of hunters and hikers around that would really like to use the goats a couple weeks a year, but dont want to have to worry about them the other 50 weeks a year. I figure I can maintain a couple pack strings at my place, take care of all their year round needs, and then the other owners would just pay me a monthly maintinence fee to keep the goats in good shape. That way there would be perhaps a group of a dozen or so owners for each pack string, and it would ensure that the goats got out a lot more than one individual owner could and that their talents would not be wasted. Maybe there are some other packgoaters in your area that would be interested in going in on a pack string with you so that you dont have to bear all the responsiblity of a pack string on your own. Or if you make it down to the lower 48, you can buy in to a group like mine or just rent the goats when you need them. Most folks that rent the goats out charge about $25 per goat per day, which may sound pricey, but when you figure that hay and vet bills for your own pack goats might run as much as $300 per year per goat, unless you plan on using them at least 2 weeks a year, it is almost cheaper just to rent. Plus you have to figure in the cost of buying the goats, the saddles, the pannier, and the cost of your time in training. It kind of makes sense to share all that with a couple other pack goaters.
Its good to take a first aid kit, with some basic stuff to make splints for fractures, clotting agents for deep cuts, etc. Hoof care should be done at home. If the goats have some rocks and asphault to run around on at home, they should keep their hooves worn down properly. If not, you may need to trim them every 3 months or so. If you have the time to get them out for regular hikes and exercize through the year, you shouldnt have to worry about too much on the trail. I am thinking of starting up a 'goat timeshare' of sorts in my area, because there are lots of hunters and hikers around that would really like to use the goats a couple weeks a year, but dont want to have to worry about them the other 50 weeks a year. I figure I can maintain a couple pack strings at my place, take care of all their year round needs, and then the other owners would just pay me a monthly maintinence fee to keep the goats in good shape. That way there would be perhaps a group of a dozen or so owners for each pack string, and it would ensure that the goats got out a lot more than one individual owner could and that their talents would not be wasted. Maybe there are some other packgoaters in your area that would be interested in going in on a pack string with you so that you dont have to bear all the responsiblity of a pack string on your own. Or if you make it down to the lower 48, you can buy in to a group like mine or just rent the goats when you need them. Most folks that rent the goats out charge about $25 per goat per day, which may sound pricey, but when you figure that hay and vet bills for your own pack goats might run as much as $300 per year per goat, unless you plan on using them at least 2 weeks a year, it is almost cheaper just to rent. Plus you have to figure in the cost of buying the goats, the saddles, the pannier, and the cost of your time in training. It kind of makes sense to share all that with a couple other pack goaters.
Ultramag45
Well-Known Member
PacK Goat guy... I have been really checking them out... am a high country Mule deer fanatic... I spike in several miles every year in Wyoming...Goats would be the way to go... only thing, I like to hunt, glass and spot on my own... is it bad news to tie your goats up at camp while you are out hunting... Predators... Bears mainly in the area... Spotting bucks from a mile away, and closing the distance quietly is what I am mainly talkin about... really thought about renting some for region H in Wyoming.....
packgoatguy
Well-Known Member
Well, I think that lots of guys do just that, and pack the goats in then leave them tied in camp. Certainly there is the liability of nearby predators whether you pack goats, horses, llamas, or whatever if they are helplessly tied to a tree. If you are really worried about the goat getting eaten, try and camp by a stream or lake and bring a friend that likes to fish, then leave them at camp with the goats and a fishing pole. Personally, I like to have at least a couple of them with me when I am actually on the stalk. I was able to get within 20 yards of the bull I took this year and the goats were by my side the whole way. they arent completely silent in the woods, but neither are elk and deer. The goats make all the same sounds as the game you are stalking so in my mind the deer wont care if you have the goats nearby. You might just try it once though, dont take my word for it.
Ultramag45
Well-Known Member
who do you know that rents goats in Region H in Wyoming... Hoback area close to Jackson.. thanks 
packgoatguy
Well-Known Member
I dont know any goat packers near Jackson. Im about an hour and a half away if you want to come rent mine. Send me a PM if you want to chat.
IChaseCoues
Well-Known Member
Packgoatguy,
Tell us about the "at home" care and keeping of the goats. What sort of maximum security prison do they need to stay off the dodge megacab playground? Also, what and how much do they eat, and what do they normally take as far as health care?
I have thought about packing with goats for a couple years now, but have not jumped in yet. What would a guy need to know to get started?
Tell us about the "at home" care and keeping of the goats. What sort of maximum security prison do they need to stay off the dodge megacab playground? Also, what and how much do they eat, and what do they normally take as far as health care?
I have thought about packing with goats for a couple years now, but have not jumped in yet. What would a guy need to know to get started?
packgoatguy
Well-Known Member
I have had 15 goats on about 2 acres of grass pasture through the summer, and that has seemed to be just right for a sustainable amount of food. Without any pasture the rule of thumb is about a ton of hay per goat. In the winter I will feed my goats hay and straw, perhaps a third ton per goat.
Fencing can be an issue, as I have seen my goats clear a 5 ft fence when motivated. I have field fenceing with a couple strands of electric wire to keep them off it and then a strand of wire across the top. If you have 4 ft of field fencing, put a wire or two across the top making it around five ft tall they should be fine. If you have a trouble maker teaching the others to get out, the tie him to a cinder block that he can drag around for a while. It wont be long before he forgets he ever wanted to get out.
Fencing can be an issue, as I have seen my goats clear a 5 ft fence when motivated. I have field fenceing with a couple strands of electric wire to keep them off it and then a strand of wire across the top. If you have 4 ft of field fencing, put a wire or two across the top making it around five ft tall they should be fine. If you have a trouble maker teaching the others to get out, the tie him to a cinder block that he can drag around for a while. It wont be long before he forgets he ever wanted to get out.
royinidaho
Well-Known Member
packgoatguy,
Those have gotta be the best looking string of goats I've seen. Large, well shaped and uniform color. Plus I like the horns....
Most of the one's I've seen are kind of scrawny lookin'.
I've thought about giving Boars a try just because that look sturdier. As you know I'm not much into goat knowledge.
When I was training border collies I had a herd of 25 angoras. Great for training dogs but useless for anything else.
The little suckers ate every weed holding the blow sand down and left the grass. The sand dune lowered about 7 feet and the back yard went up about 3 feet. The swing set was buried for years, until grand kids came along.
Plus they did a rain dance on one of the vehicles. The new paint job was worth it though.
I have about 5 acres of everything from blow sand to swamp with everything between. Keeps a horse quite pot gutted and about 3 head of calves but not with the horse too.
Those have gotta be the best looking string of goats I've seen. Large, well shaped and uniform color. Plus I like the horns....
Most of the one's I've seen are kind of scrawny lookin'.
I've thought about giving Boars a try just because that look sturdier. As you know I'm not much into goat knowledge.
When I was training border collies I had a herd of 25 angoras. Great for training dogs but useless for anything else.
The little suckers ate every weed holding the blow sand down and left the grass. The sand dune lowered about 7 feet and the back yard went up about 3 feet. The swing set was buried for years, until grand kids came along.
Plus they did a rain dance on one of the vehicles. The new paint job was worth it though.
I have about 5 acres of everything from blow sand to swamp with everything between. Keeps a horse quite pot gutted and about 3 head of calves but not with the horse too.
