.010 bumps it's the least and .002 bumps it the most. The #2 Redding Competition shell holder is the same as the standard shell holder #5 included with Lee WSM dies.
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If the factory shell holder doesn't work then the Redding competition shell holders will not help solve your issue. The #2 competition shell holder resizes the most which is right at factory die spec or just below. You need one that allows for more resizing like @MagnumManiac suggested.Disregard I think I have it figured out now after thinking on what you suggested.
They "get thinner" from a starting reference point of being 0.010" taller than 0.125" standard to start with, and going down in 0.002" increments. The standard shellholder is still the thinnest of them all.the shell holders get thinner on the face by .002 steps thus forcing the brass further up in the dye.
Yes I read that on the Redding website. I need to get me some of these.the shell holders get thinner on the face by .002 steps thus forcing the brass further up in the dye.
That is what I thought. Or you need to do as Skip suggested. And hope it works depending on your die & chamber. Or remove material from bottom of die. But it does state on Redding site that the shell holders increase the case length. Which has me confused. lolIf the factory shell holder doesn't work then the Redding competition shell holders will not help solve your issue. The #2 competition shell holder resizes the most which is right at factory die spec or just below. You need one that allows for more resizing like @MagnumManiac suggested.
I had a brain fart, I was thinking 300 RUM. Since the SAAMI drawing shows .551" at the base versus .555 for the 300 WSM, slide a 300 WSM case into a 300 RUM die until it sizes the part of the case you want it to. It should have radial clearance around the shoulder due to the significantly shorter WSM case.You could try an RCBS small base die for the 300 WM.
They do increase case "life" length as your resizing minimally. If you only need to use the #10 to bump the shoulders, and they then cycle, then your case is longer "usually" than if you need to move to the #8. Usually when using these it takes a couple of firings to get your case OAL to settle down and not require trimming.That is what I thought. Or you need to do as Skip suggested. And hope it works depending on your die & chamber. Or remove material from bottom of die. But it does state on Redding site that the shell holders increase the case length. Which has me confused. lol
I see now after rereading the Reddings post on these. Deeper is the word I was skimming over. And it just now clicked. Duh lolThey do increase case "life" length as your resizing minimally. If you only need to use the #10 to bump the shoulders, and they then cycle, then your case is longer "usually" than if you need to move to the #8. Usually when using these it takes a couple of firings to get your case OAL to settle down and not require trimming.
What does that mean?You're gonna be in clicker he** with that brass.
When a case expands above the web too much relative to the chamber walls the rifle "clicks" as the bolt pops through primary extraction and into the receiver. Similar feeling to if you've ever shot a slightly wet or oiled round and had to work real hard to get the bolt open after firing.What does that mean?
Roger that. You get first shot if I don't see some promising results. I've got a dozen pieces sized to snug chamber fit. They need about .005" shoulder move and .001" head shrink to be perfect. My next step is to load up three and see what the cases do. Maybe I'll even get some useful load data out of them. The rifle did put two loads of last weekend's charge ladder (different Norma source) into the same hole. Velocity was a little slow though. Prayin' for some brass flow…If you want to buy new brass, I'll buy the old stuff. I have a 300 WSM AR-10 that doesn't need fancy stuff.
Thats what I've done. Thanks for sharing your experience.Not a problem...set your die to OVER CAMBER..screw it down farther than normal by a half turn to full turn. It's common with my 270 WSM, and 300 Weatherby Mark V vs 300 Weatherby Vanguard...after fire forming in your chamber they generally work fine to load again,and again.