Options for opening up barrel channel?

glock24

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West Michigan
I have a Boyd's stock currently inbound (laminate wood), and I already know I'll need to open up the stock's barrel channel (as I'm running a larger diameter custom barrel)

Any tips or particularly useful woodworking tools I should consider? I don't have a mill, so it'll be hand tools and elbow grease for me. I've done this once in the past using 60 grit sandpaper wrapped around different diameter deep sockets. It worked (sorta) but it doesn't really allow me to follow the taper of the barrel.

Any insights on other possible manual options would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 
As mentioned above, wood dowel, pvc pipe, etc with sand paper works great. I just finished one the other day. I had to open it up quite a bit do to the new barrel diameter.

Started off with around 80 grit to start and ended up with 600 grit. It ended up very smooth and looked like it came that way.

Since you'll be working on a wooden stock, in your final sanding, moisten the channel area a little and that will raise the wood grain some. After it dries, finish sanding with your highest grit number sandpaper you have, at least 220, and the wood grain will not raise when you put the finish in the channel area.
 
Those Gunline Tools, that Shadow Tracker linked to, are no longer available from Brownells or Midway, you have to go to the source https://gunlinetools.com/product/barrel-bedding-tool/ ... Some Inletting black, of another marking compound is need to spot where material needs to be removed from the barrel channel. I have been machining since '74 and am a gunsmith school grad, and I'd not use a vertical mill to do finish work opening a barrel channel. Even if to use the CNC, the stock would need to be securely fixtured (ya' can't cut on it if ya; can't hold it securely!) and a program generated (a skill set in itself). For 1 stock, just not worth the time! Back to the Gunline Tools, might think they are pricey, but are worth it for time saved and quality of the work. While a gunsmith student, we made many of the tools needed. After 31yrs I still make some when needed. Maybe I should make some and offer for sale, as they are much handier and work quicker than sand paper around a socket! Good luck with that lami! I won't work with another! Just too big a PIA for what ya' end up with..
 
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Those Gunline Tools, that Shadow Tracker linked to, are no longer available from Brownells or Midway, you have to go to the source https://gunlinetools.com/product/barrel-bedding-tool/ ... Some Inletting black, of another marking compound is need to spot where material needs to be removed from the barrel channel. I have been machining since '74 and am a gunsmith school grad, and I'd not use a vertical mill to do finish work opening a barrel channel. Even if to use the CNC, the stock would need to be securely fixtured (ya' can't cut on it if ya; can't hold it securely!) and a program generated (a skill set in itself). For 1 stock, just not worth the time! Back to the Gunline Tools, might think they are pricey, but are worth it for time saved and quality of the work. While a gunsmith student, we made many of the tools needed. After 31yrs I still make some when needed. Maybe I should make some and offer for sale, as they are much handier and work quicker than sand paper around a socket! Good luck with that lami! I won't work with another! Just too big a PIA for what ya' end up with..
What he said. You can make do with other stuff but for a really professional job, can't beat having the right tool.
 
Slow option is a 3" 1/2" Drive socket or wooden dowel. I gave all my scrapers away, don't have the patience for them.

Fast option is a Barrel drum sander on a 12" Drill bit extender, use a 1/2" adjustable speed drill with the speed control wheel on the trigger. The drills with the speed control that goes faster the further you depress the trigger are more difficult to use as they cut too quickly. You will need a way to hold the stock.



I use a rifle vise and put a 25 lb bag of bird shot on the back end, which makes for a stable working platform. Go slow and easy. Use 2 layers of white masking tape on the top of the forearm, lay your barrel on top of the forearm, and trace the barrel outline on the tape. Work slowly and deliberately. The drum sander will want to climb up and out over the edge of the barrel channel. So use reverse rotation on the drum to alleviate the Drum wanting to climb out of the barrel channel. You will have to reverse the rotation from the left to the right side, and vice a versa. 60 grit works best. You can get 3" long barrel drums at work working specialty shops. On wood stocks, be sure and seal the barrel channel with polyurethane.

If you have a drill press and a mill vise attachment, you can use Round bottom router bits.

There is a learning curve to any method, it may help if you have a junker stock or two to practice on.

There are different opinions on how much clearance to strive for. Regarding the old dollar bill clearance, I am not in favor of having so little clearance due to "barrel slap" during recoil. My preference is two business card clearances Which also allow for some Air circulation around the barrel for cooling. Stocks can warp a little during wet seasons, the extra clearance is insurance for the barrel to stay freefloated.
 
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