Barrel channel widening

[Bobcape]

What you will need :

Inletting studs ¼ x 32, for Win M70

inletting ink – Dykem will work , for transferring the imprint of the barreled action to the stock so you know where to remove material.

barrel channel – Gunline barrel bedding tool, sandpaper on a dowel, scrapers - to remove the material

Follow the example in the linked video below (you will be working more in the barrel channel than shown in the video) :

I don't like using Dykem because of the mess. I mix RIG grease with red carpenter chalk. The chalk you put in a snap line. Use a small brush to paint it on and clean up is a breeze. I keep it in an old 35mm plastic film canister.

Bob

 

[shortgrass]

were they handmade ?

Mine are shop made. I cut the 'rat tail' off with an abrasive chop saw, and the rest of the file will fit cross corner in my heat treat oven. After annealed, I put 1 x 4s in the vise jaws of my horizontal band saw and cut it into 2"+ long pieces. I hold the pieces in a nylon, "emergency" collet to face 'um and drill & tap. Then re-heat treat. Dastra Woodscrew used to make similar cutters. Those were made with hand cut teeth (with a graver) like a pattern makers file/rasp. My Dastra tools dulled-up after many years of using them, and the Bastard cut 16" rat tail files came to mind. I still have my Dastra barrel channel tools and will send them off to Boggs Tool along with the USA Made Nicholson #49 Pattern Makers files for sharpening. Many of my specialty chisels and scrapers ae shop made, also. "Necessity is the Mother of Invention". These aren't 'inventions', just another way around a problem. As a working gunsmith, I have all the needed equipment to make what I need (when I have time!). This afternoon, after I finish a thread& chamber job on a Hart bbl., I'll make a new swedging point for my 1911 plunger tube crimping tool. I don't care for the way the 'store bought' one works. I tried the grease and chalk and then Jarrows Inletting Black/Gold. I much prefer the inletting black.

 

[jdyoung]

Shortgrass wrote: "I don't care for the way the 'store bought' one works. I tried the grease and chalk and then Jarrows Inletting Black/Gold. I much prefer the inletting black".

Bobcape wrote: "I don't like using Dykem because of the mess".

I mentioned using Dykem for inletting ink because it is hard to find these days. Midway, Brownells doesn't carry it.
Yeah, I prefer Jarrows too. While more expensive, the Gold is my go to as it shows up more readily to my old eyes.
Only place I have found it these days is Track of the Wolf

 

[tobnpr]

I am looking for suggestions as to what would be the best/ easiest way to remove the material in this area

Well, easiest way would be a buddy with a knee mill...
Removing a lot of material with dowels wrapped with sandpaper is probably the least effective way, it'll work- but it'll take a lot more time than you might think. Laminates in particular so because of the hardness of the glues used.

 

[shortgrass]

Jarrrows is available @ Kokopelli Products. Best price I've found

 

[Lvm2Bbs4811]

View attachment 222316

do you have these for sale or know where we can find a set in good shape?

 

[shortgrass]

do you have these for sale or know where we can find a set in good shape?

I made those in my shop because I could not find anything that is commercially made, anymore. I have a heat treat oven, as I occasionally do Color Case Hardening. So , a 16" 'rat tail' file gets annealed, then cut into sections, faced. drilled & tapped, then re-hardened. Stockmaking (hard wood) was still taught when I went to gunsmith school, and many of the tools needed we made. After you have your 10 posts you can send and receive PMs on this site (site rules). Get those 10 posts and send me a PM about these, maybe I can help you.