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Optic mounting and zeroing issues?

Burris XTRIII are supposed to be factory set at 20MOA down to account for a 20MOA base. Sonit should have been close to zeroed.

The 3.3-18×50 comes with 35MIL of total elevation adjustment. You said you got 39 MIL of travel? Were you dialing while looking through the scope with your rifle secured to watch the reticle move full travel? Could the screws to the turret not be quite tight and allowing the turret to skip adjustment? If it is skipping, 39MIL (390 clicks) could have been 20MIL which would be about right if you were not watching movement.

What rings? Not all are created equal. If your ring caps are too tight, it could be binding up the elevation erector not allowing it to move freely, causing skips too. Try backing the ring caps to 15in/lbs (make sure it is INCH pounds, not FOOT pounds...it has happened and been discussed on here before), and again, watch reticle movement.
They are mounted in Hawkins precision rings. I tired them in some night force rings same thing. I'll try 15inch lbs when I get home from working out of town. I did look through it, it is moving but how much I do t have a way to measure it currently.
 
They are mounted in Hawkins precision rings. I tired them in some night force rings same thing. I'll try 15inch lbs when I get home from working out of town. I did look through it, it is moving but how much I do t have a way to measure it currently.
This rifle scope is shipped from the factory with the optical center set at 20 MOA below center. Without tapered bases, the initial sight-in or bore sighting will likely produce a considerably high initial point of impact. Because of the Zero Click Stop™ feature, as shipped from the factory the scope has no immediate capability for downward point-of-impact adjustment.Use the following procedure whenever you need downward point of impact adjustment:


 
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They are mounted in Hawkins precision rings. I tired them in some night force rings same thing. I'll try 15inch lbs when I get home from working out of town. I did look through it, it is moving but how much I do t have a way to measure it currently.
Please elaborate on what you mean by moving. Is it moving/sliding/slipping off the scope rings? Or moving off from the rail?
 
Please elaborate on what you mean by moving. Is it moving/sliding/slipping off the scope rings? Or moving off from the rail?
I'm pretty sure he's referring to the reticle moving. And not having a way to verify how much. I believe as others have said, it's his zero stop he's having issues with.
 
I'm pretty sure he's referring to the reticle moving. And not having a way to verify how much. I believe as others have said, it's his zero stop he's having issues with.
I did not get the reticle was the issue from any of his posts, and the reason I am asking for clarification. Heck, he has not responded to the zero-stop comments. If it is indeed a reticle issue, no scope rings will fix it. Only Burris can resolve the issue.
 
I did not get the reticle was the issue from any of his posts, and the reason I am asking for clarification. Heck, he has not responded to the zero-stop comments. If it is indeed a reticle issue, no scope rings will fix it. Only Burris can resolve the issue.
Yes I am guessing from reading his shorthand sentences. "I DID LOOK THROUGH IT"I believe everyone is on point with the zero stop. Would be nice to hear how he made out. lol
 
Ok got this fixed. Burris was basically no help. The guy on the phone at Burris didn't even know how the zero stop worked. The zero stop is just a pin on the turret and a pin on the turret cap. So there is no adjusting it. Anyways I checked my rail and it wasn't square. I put a straight edge on it and you could see day light under it. So I bedded the rail and set the scope to optical center. Now looking down the bore at a distance with the rifle on a rest the reticle and the bore are very close to the same spot. So now to get to the range and shoot it and see.
 
The zero stop is just a pin on the turret and a pin on the turret cap. So there is no adjusting it.
Not according to page 3 of the manual

Use the following procedure whenever you need downward point of impact adjustment:1) Turn the elevation adjustment knob clockwise to "0".2) Use the 2mm hex wrench supplied with the scope to loosen the set screws on the elevation adjustment knob located just under the top of the knob. The knob should spin freely.3) Turn the knob counterclockwise slightly more(2-5 clicks more) than the number of MILS needed to achieve zero.4) Retighten the set screws. Adjust the elevation down the required amount.5) Once the elevation adjustment is complete, once again loosen the two set screws and reset the knob to"0".With the screws loose, push down firmly on the knob until it is fully seated on the turret base and turn the knob clockwise until it stops against the Zero Click Stop. Then retighten the set screws.
 
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Not according to page 3 of the manual

Use the following procedure whenever you need downward point of impact adjustment:1) Turn the elevation adjustment knob clockwise to "0".2) Use the 2mm hex wrench supplied with the scope to loosen the set screws on the elevation adjustment knob located just under the top of the knob. The knob should spin freely.3) Turn the knob counterclockwise slightly more(2-5 clicks more) than the number of MILS needed to achieve zero.4) Retighten the set screws. Adjust the elevation down the required amount.5) Once the elevation adjustment is complete, once again loosen the two set screws and reset the knob to"0".With the screws loose, push down firmly on the knob until it is fully seated on the turret base and turn the knob clockwise until it stops against the Zero Click Stop. Then retighten the set screws.
I did that turret was bottomed out on scope housing and the set screws were as high as they could be to still grip the turret. The turret was bottomed out! If I counted the total travel and it was in spec or more total travel then what the scope is spaced to have I'm pretty sure it's bottomed out.
 
Ok got this fixed. Burris was basically no help. The guy on the phone at Burris didn't even know how the zero stop worked. The zero stop is just a pin on the turret and a pin on the turret cap. So there is no adjusting it. Anyways I checked my rail and it wasn't square. I put a straight edge on it and you could see day light under it. So I bedded the rail and set the scope to optical center. Now looking down the bore at a distance with the rifle on a rest the reticle and the bore are very close to the same spot. So now to get to the range and shoot it and see.
So what's causing it to be out of square ? Screw holes not straight ? Or possibly something under the rail ? Poor machining ?
 
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