Opening up a barrel channel..some ?s

[Bigeclipse]

Hey guys,
In anticipation of the arrival of my stock and new barrel...the barrel width will be very close to the stock channel width. It may need to be opened a little to ensure proper floating. The stock is a synthetic Bell and Carlson with aluminum bedding block.

1)how much space would you want? I have heard things like being able to fit two business cards...etc.
2) I have heard of using wooden dowels with sand paper...what size dowels? Slightly smaller than planned cut... etc?
3) what grit sand paper?
4) what to seal the stock with afterwards? I am not to concerned about looks as this will be under the barrel and wont really be seen but do I need something to protect it? Maybe some sort of clear coat or something? Thanks guys.

 

[MudRunner2005]

Hey guys,
In anticipation of the arrival of my stock and new barrel...the barrel width will be very close to the stock channel width. It may need to be opened a little to ensure proper floating. The stock is a synthetic Bell and Carlson with aluminum bedding block.

1)how much space would you want? I have heard things like being able to fit two business cards...etc.
2) I have heard of using wooden dowels with sand paper...what size dowels? Slightly smaller than planned cut... etc?
3) what grit sand paper?
4) what to seal the stock with afterwards? I am not to concerned about looks as this will be under the barrel and wont really be seen but do I need something to protect it? Maybe some sort of clear coat or something? Thanks guys.

1) You want enough space that if the stock flexes that it won't touch the barrel anywhere around it, so 2 business cards would be a good guess.

2) Wooden dowels and sandpaper will work, but a set of stock-makers barrel channel tools are better and more precise.

3) Like anything, start with the roughest grit to get the most material out of there. Then when you get it opened up to where you want it, use softer grit to smooth the surface.

4) It's a synthetic stock, you shouldn't need anything to seal it back. If it was a wooden stock, wood sealant would be needed.

 

[Bigeclipse]

1) You want enough space that if the stock flexes that it won't touch the barrel anywhere around it, so 2 business cards would be a good guess.

2) Wooden dowels and sandpaper will work, but a set of stock-makers barrel channel tools are better and more precise.

3) Like anything, start with the roughest grit to get the most material out of there. Then when you get it opened up to where you want it, use softer grit to smooth the surface.

4) It's a synthetic stock, you shouldn't need anything to seal it back. If it was a wooden stock, wood sealant would be needed.

I see the tool sets on brownells for this. it seems you would need to know which diameter to get and i have no idea...I know the barrel is similar to the contour of the pac nor #4 lol but thats it. From the measurements Bell and carlson gave me and the measurements of the barrel...it appears it will be super close...I.e. there will already be a bit of space but to as to how much space I have no idea. So I do not think this is a case where I am trying to get the barrel to float but more it will already float but not by much...

 

[Unofficial Gun Addict (UGA)]

1) You want enough space that if the stock flexes that it won't touch the barrel anywhere around it, so 2 business cards would be a good guess.

2) Wooden dowels and sandpaper will work, but a set of stock-makers barrel channel tools are better and more precise.

3) Like anything, start with the roughest grit to get the most material out of there. Then when you get it opened up to where you want it, use softer grit to smooth the surface.

4) It's a synthetic stock, you shouldn't need anything to seal it back. If it was a wooden stock, wood sealant would be needed.

Heya BigEclipse... I think Madrunner is pretty much on the money on this, except I have no experience with the stock makers barrel channel tools... always gone with the dowel method. If you are going with something like B&C's m40, the aluminum bedding does a pretty good job of reducing stock flex. In all candor, how much room you make under the barrel is really a personal preference sort of thing. Some of my friends like a wide margin between the barrel and stock, and I generally prefer more than most, but a lot less than my friends. Once you free float it, and the stock doesn't touch the barrel (even when under pressure such as bipod mounted, etc), then it boils down to aesthetics and functionality from there on out. I don't want water and debris getting into my stock under the barrel... So I try to keep things pretty tight when it come to fit.

Guess my one suggestion is to start small and go slow... Testing the barrel and stock fit frequently when you are getting close to where you want it. You can always widen and/or deepen, but it's a pain to add once you've gone further than you wanted.

Good luck and we'd love to see your rifle once you get her done!

 

[fmajor]

It may be hard to find dowel appropriately sized (depending on barrel channel/contour) so I've used different sized PVC tubing to get to where I want, Starting with a fatter diameter and then using smaller as I get a more "precise" fit....

 

[Unofficial Gun Addict (UGA)]

It may be hard to find dowel appropriately sized (depending on barrel channel/contour) so I've used different sized PVC tubing to get to where I want, Starting with a fatter diameter and then using smaller as I get a more "precise" fit....

This is why I love this site... A always seem to learn something new. Never would have thought of PVC. Great idea!

 

[brentc]

I've used deep well sockets wrapped with sandpaper to good effect for opening barrel channels.

 

[WildRose]

B E, with a synthetic or fiberglass stock the channeling tools don't work very well so the dowels or pvc is the way to go.

It's a toss up on how much room you want for your float. The less space you leave the more professional and precise it looks.

Personally I want a good bit of free space. The more space you have the greater the likelihood of getting debris in there but the more space you have the less it's likely to interfere.

 

[mountainman56]

I've used deep well sockets wrapped with sandpaper to good effect for opening barrel channels.

Now THAT'S a good idea. A whole toolbox full of different sizes.

 

[Bigeclipse]

Heya BigEclipse... I think Madrunner is pretty much on the money on this, except I have no experience with the stock makers barrel channel tools... always gone with the dowel method. If you are going with something like B&C's m40, the aluminum bedding does a pretty good job of reducing stock flex. In all candor, how much room you make under the barrel is really a personal preference sort of thing. Some of my friends like a wide margin between the barrel and stock, and I generally prefer more than most, but a lot less than my friends. Once you free float it, and the stock doesn't touch the barrel (even when under pressure such as bipod mounted, etc),
Guess my one suggestion is to start small and go slow... Testing the barrel and stock fit frequently when you are getting close to where you want it. You can always widen and/or deepen, but it's a pain to add once you've gone further than you wanted.

Good luck and we'd love to see your rifle once you get her done!

This is actually the B&C medalist sporter contour...not the M40. Unfortunately the M40 does not fit my action type and also I wanted this build to be on the medium weight side and cheap for costs. I selected the stock knowing the new barrel would be a tight fit but not undoable with a little sanding. The specs suggest it should be free floating or close to free floating without modification so I should only have to open it up maybe a millimeter or so. This is my first savage build so I am keeping it cheap..cheaper stock, cheaper barrel...etc. I am not expecting sub .5MOA performance or anything. Just expecting a 400-500 yard big game hunting rifle so hopefully sub 1 MOA with hand loads.

It may be hard to find dowel appropriately sized (depending on barrel channel/contour) so I've used different sized PVC tubing to get to where I want, Starting with a fatter diameter and then using smaller as I get a more "precise" fit....

I've used deep well sockets wrapped with sandpaper to good effect for opening barrel channels.

Thanks guys for the advice listed above. The stock comes in this week, the barrel wont arive for another few weeks so I really wont know what I am getting into until then. I am going on what B&C said for measurements and the contour size of the barrel.

 

[IAHNTR]

I have used the deep well sockets too with good luck. Also, a dremel with sanding drum works good too.

 

[Unofficial Gun Addict (UGA)]

BigE. Sounds like fun and you might be surprised. Some cheap savages shoot amazing when they don't have factory Tupperware pushing on the barrel. I've got a 223 hog hunter which shoots consistent .3x groups using fiocchi match and it's in the factory plastic.

Here's to wishing you the best... And it's only a gun. As long as the stock isn't mashing against the barrel when you're all done, and you have a place to grab up front and/or put a bipod... With no barrel contact, Well then you should be good to go. Looks don't matter much in my book when it comes to guns, however, Performance does

Just got an xp100 with the ugly zytel stock, but I could really care less because she shoots like a dream!

Good luck man!

 

[FearNoWind]

If you free float the barrel off the end of a 2x4 and it shoots well you've got a good rifle. OK, it won't be pretty, but pretty is often over-rated.
I've used pieces of closet rod, various sizes of wooden dowel, deep sockets, steel and aluminum pipe, PVC pipe and I've even turned round dowels to the exact size I need using my wood lathe.
Just make sure the tool you use matches the contour of our barrel fairly well.
You may have to wait until the barrel is delivered but it doesn't take long to do the work on the barrel channel so don't sweat that.
Use something in the 60 grit region wrapped round the tool you choose to begin with and remove material from the recoil lug slot forward. Move horizontally along the barrel channel, make a few passes and check for clearance (with the actions screws in place) using a standard business card. One card is usually plenty of clearance for a heavy barrel but I like two cards thickness clearance for a lighter contour. Clearance = no drag at any point along the barrel channel when the action screws are properly torqued.
Finish up with a few passes with 80 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. That shold be enough. I like to wax the barrel channel cavity when I'm finished. Probably not necessary but I have this thing about moisture infiltration and pieces of debris getting hung up. It's my OCD working.
The "dollar bill" test of yesteryear is passe and was never a good indicator anyway. The rumor that 20 dollar bills are thicker has no merit.
Have fun .............

 

[Bigeclipse]

If you free float the barrel off the end of a 2x4 and it shoots well you've got a good rifle. OK, it won't be pretty, but pretty is often over-rated.
I've used pieces of closet rod, various sizes of wooden dowel, deep sockets, steel and aluminum pipe, PVC pipe and I've even turned round dowels to the exact size I need using my wood lathe.
Just make sure the tool you use matches the contour of our barrel fairly well.
You may have to wait until the barrel is delivered but it doesn't take long to do the work on the barrel channel so don't sweat that.
Use something in the 60 grit region wrapped round the tool you choose to begin with and remove material from the recoil lug slot forward. Move horizontally along the barrel channel, make a few passes and check for clearance (with the actions screws in place) using a standard business card. One card is usually plenty of clearance for a heavy barrel but I like two cards thickness clearance for a lighter contour. Clearance = no drag at any point along the barrel channel when the action screws are properly torqued.
Finish up with a few passes with 80 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. That shold be enough. I like to wax the barrel channel cavity when I'm finished. Probably not necessary but I have this thing about moisture infiltration and pieces of debris getting hung up. It's my OCD working.
The "dollar bill" test of yesteryear is passe and was never a good indicator anyway. The rumor that 20 dollar bills are thicker has no merit.
Have fun .............

Thanks for the tip...I assume by no drag you mean sliding easily up and down the channel? My remington with the same stock and light barrel slides 2 business cards...but it can take a little force... but they dont hang up so maybe it it is slightly less than 2 business cards but it shoots well enough for what it is (400 yard gun shooting about .75MOA)

I just got the stock yesterday for the savage build and it fits well but the current barrel is only 1 business card clearance and it is a thinner barrel than the new one coming in so I will definitely need to sand it down a decent amount. Old barrel is a savage standard sporter that ends with a thickness of .585 and new one will be a magnum sporter ending with .685 so it will need to be opened probably .15-.2 inches to allow for 2 business cards which is quite a bit. do I need to worry about the stock becoming weak due to this? It has an aluminum bedding block that runs down it so I would think not but I am also concerned about sanding down to far where the aluminum actually could pop out.... lightbulb