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OOTB accurate 300wsm rifle

IMO Winchester 70 or Tikka.

The Winchester for the bolt, receiver, and adj trigger design. As well as the modest increase in cartridge COAL of 3.1 vs Rem or Savage. Also 4 short magnum rounds fit under a closed bolt on the Win 70 WSM version.

The Tikka for the numerous reasons already mentioned by others.

I really have come to love the rigid reciever mounted ejector for bolt guns. Did not think I would care but I really like being able to control ejection force. Go figure!?!

Do you plan to rebarrel or restock this or is the plan to stay with the OEM setup?

If staying OEM, one way to help weed thru might be to look at their total weights and how its distributed thru the various parts of the offerings that you like or are good enough as is without having to upgrade.

If you plan to upgrade then its all about the action IMO.
 
For a while it would stay stock. I dont plan on doing a rebarrel out of the box. I like the kimber mtn ascent (but ive seen a few reviews where they weren't happy with the accuracy) and love the idea of the c.f. CA barrel, but if I can achieve good accuracy with a tikka or win (or anything else) for less $ then I don't have a problem going a different way. I'm not brand locked, id try anything as long as it's accurate and not real heavy....each pound adds up and more weight in the rifle either means more weight to carry or a few pounds to drop off my pack. But I'm not lightweight crazy either, i dont to need to have the lightest thing out there.

Too bad about the twist rate in the tikkas, I didn't realize that about them.

So it sounds like people are recommending tikka, win, kimber, and c.a. rifles.....thought maybe I'd see a few recommendations for savage, rem700, browning, and maybe rem sps.... guess they maybe just aren't quite as accurate. Thanks for the suggestions, I'll start looking closer at the details.
 
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ok--did more research but I'm lacking the OAL that they can be loaded to in the box mags (sans the tikka since its a LA) as this info is not on manu's web sites

savage--- 23" bear hunter(7.5lb), 26" LRH(8lb), and 24" storm(7.25lb) are $700-1000--but only hold 2 rounds in box mag and I think the adjustable brakes are NOT removable, and some say the accu-stock and adj brake can be quirkey --1:10 - 2 have adjustable brake

Win ---24" extreme(7lbs) about $1000, 24" coyote light(7.5lb) both threaded and non around $1200--all hold 3 rounds and 1:10- no brake

Rem700 ---sps 24", (7.3lb) hold 3 and 1:10 about $700- no brake

Tikka--- tx3- 24.3" bbl, holds 3- 1:11 twist (6.3lb)- found a SS one for as low as $700- no brake

Browning--lots to choose from--Pro LR, hells canyon speed, hells canyon speed LR, Pro, hells canyon LR, stainless stalker/western hunter-- all have 1:10 and hold 3, range from 6.3 up to 7.4 pounds, many have a brake, range from 23 to 26" barrels, and range from $1000-2000 depending on model

Kimber -- 24" mtn ascent-is the lightest at 5.9lbs, holds 3, 1:10 and has a brake-$1850

CA-- 24" ridgeline- 1:10, holds 3, 6.3lbs, has brake--$1900

Sako-- 24.4" 85 finlight--6.4lbs-- holds 4, no brake--1:11 twist--$1650 (same barrel as tikka?)

looks like the tikka, 110 storm, bear hunter, and 700 sps are all in the $700 ish range

then there is the $1000-1200 ish range for the win extreme, coyote hunter, 110lrh, hells canyon lr, speed and stalker

then the price jumps to $1600-2000 for the rest

anyone know what OAL each brand can be loaded to??? I know the tikka is a LA so its pretty much "stars the limit" -- how much does the 1:11 twist limit it over the 1:10??

I see that on berger's website the 190 vld hunting is 1:11, but the 210 is a 1:10
also see that for target bullets, they spec out the 185 hybrid and above all for 1:10, and the 215 hybrid is for 1:9

I also see that the lrab 168 would work in a 1:11, but they recomend a 1:10 for the 190 and 2010--and the eldx 178 would work, but 200 and up say for 1:10

I could punch the individual numbers in the calculator, but generally the recommendations are fairly accurate
 
I think you pretty much nailed it. Bullets and twist required. Many will tell you that you can push the limits of stability, and they are correct, for good accuracy. When it comes to getting the best from your bullet in regards to terminal performance, I recommend keeping your stability at 1.5sg or higher. Bullets simply perform better on game then.

The 1-11" really won't hurt much with lead core bullets. If you look into running mono's like what we make then it gets pretty tough to run a very heavy bullet. To get full stability win a low drag type bullet you will be down around the 160g to 170g bullets. We can do heavier with blunt nosed bullets but bc is not high.

The actual distance that you are wanting to effectively use your rifle will determine if the twist rate is an issue. You could run our 166g Hammer Hunter in the 11" twist at close to 3200fps and have a very capable round for elk out to 800y.

The Tikka are a nice rifle for the money and have a reputation of being very good out of the box. As long as you know what you are getting into with the 11". Also many are using the Tikka as a platform for semi custom builds, so it should serve you down the road well.

Steve
 
Get the tikka, install a mpi ultralight or wildcat stock, you'll be in the 5.8# area. Flute bolt, ti recoil lug and bolt shroud. Could hack a couple inches from barrel add a 2 port brake. Will be in the 5.5# range with a non pencil Barrel and have the tikka accuracy we're all accustomed too. No changing on a kimber.
 
I think ill probably go with tikka and just stick with 190's or lighter for the twist rate. My local Sportsmans has one in stock and they have a 10% off sale for club members this Sunday.

Now, next question....suggestions for a decent lighter scope? There are lots of options, I don't want to go cheap but I'm probably not going top of the line either. I know that good glass has some weight to it but I don't want to slap a super heavy tank on top of a lighter rifle either....i have a lightweight 16" 308 (ar chassis)rifle with the windplex cds vx2 3-9 ultralight scope on it (weighs under 7 pounds with optics) i love the weight of the scope (think it's about 9 ounces) but I'd like a bit more magnification on the top end and a bit better glass. I'd like to stay in the 3x-4x lower end for tight woods areas but have more magnification on the top end for the long shots across fields and valleys
 
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Good glass is dense, so making a lightweight scope with good glass (and reliable adjustments) is an exercise in compromise. To me the Vortex razor LH offers possibly the best value in that category at the moment. For a few bucks and a few oz more, the Leupold VX-5HD offers an exposed locking turret with zero stop.

Be sure to browse through the optics subforum;

https://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/long-range-scopes-and-other-optics.18/

Lots of good into there.

The tikka stocks are really not the best. Also they're short. Not 'youth' short, but they're too short for me. If you can't afford to put it in the stock of your dreams off the bat (MPI and Wildcat are 2 of my favorites too @highdrum )

At the minimum, invest in a good recoil pad (pachmayr or limb saver) and some kind of spacer (between the stock and pad, if necessary) so the LOP fits you perfectly. This will go a long way in making the rifle more comfortable and easier to shoot.
 
those wildcat stocks look decent for the price--can you bed them with accra-glass? what about the sanding and filling, what is used to fill the seams? can a screw on recoil pad be installed on them?

I was already looking at the vx-5hd, I'l take a look at the razor lh and check out the optics section too---thanks-- saw the Z5 is only 16 ounces, good glass thats lightweight! So gotta weight my options for the vx5 at$8-900 vs. the Z5 at $1300

who has the best value on the ti lug and shroud?(lumley?) I'll probably have a local smith do a brake on it too.

is there any difference between the profile of the light and ultralight barrels? (other than the fluted bbl on the ultralight?) --I know the ultra light is not available in 300wsm, but it is available in 7rm and 300wm (which are close to 300wsm)--I can get the light in 300wsm for $700 otd, or the ultralight in 7rm or 300wm for $740 otd


what about rings/mounts? tally lightweight? other suggestions?
 
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I'm sure acraglas would work, I see guys around here prefer devcon because it's thicker and easier to work with. I've not used either, i learned old school with two part epoxy. I would pony up for a premium product on anything bigger than a 30-06 however.

Dynapatch was once a great filler, loved it in the metal cans. Now that it comes in plastic cans it seems to dry out a bit before point of use and I no longer recommend/trust it. Bondo is hard to beat in terms of finishability and durability. Wildcat stocks are not designed for a screw on pad.

For scope mounting, the talleys are probably lightest. I have a couple sets for the tikka. Talley doesn't recommend lapping, and there is some 'lash' or 'ball slap' in the bases before they're torqued down. As a result indexing is paramount in ensuring a good install. I've had some issues with rings coming loose (never talleys), so I prefer the ring/rail combo. This way it's possible to re-torque the rail without taking the scope out of the rings. This is also convenient because it means I only have to 'level' the scope once. It makes it easy to swap a different scope in if problem solving is required. You decide if it's worth the extra 4+ oz a rail adds. If so, Seekins is my first choice, and though it's nice to confirm indexing, I've found no alignment/adjustment required.

Hopefully someone else can answer your other q's, because I just don't know.
 
So, had anyone had a tikka light or ultralight barrel threaded for a brake? What thread size/pitch do they thread It? I would prefer 5/8x24 but it looks like that may not leave enough of a shoulder for a brake or suppressor....i asked "high tech customs" (a good local smith who installs nice radial brakes) and they said they use 1/2x28--- I'm worried that a 30cal barrel with 1/2" threads will swell when firing and decrease accuracy.

Also, anyone with a wildcat stock, what is a good recoil pad to use? Can a limbsaver or kick-eze be glued on rather than screwed on?
 
Yes , I have three . One is a 300wsm that I did send to hill country rifles for them to accurize. It was bought used and shot 1-1.5 moa , after it was accurized it shot .217 moa. I purchased a 270wsm new and with proper break in work it shoots .50 with the only two factory loads I ran through it. I bought a 264wm in the extreme also but I haven't started the break in work on it yet . Good luck , you can purchase a extreme for around 1,050
 
I picked up my 2nd Winchester Model 70 Extreme Weather in 300WSM last December, 7 pounds without the base, ring's and scope. Had my gunsmith do a radial MB of his and a Timney trigger. My Son sent me a photo this afternoon of 5 shots into 1 ragged hole at 150 yards. shooting 181 grain Hammer Hunter bullets at over 3010 fps out of the factory barrel.

I have no complaints at all
T.P.
 
I picked up my 2nd Winchester Model 70 Extreme Weather in 300WSM last December, 7 pounds without the base, ring's and scope. Had my gunsmith do a radial MB of his and a Timney trigger. My Son sent me a photo this afternoon of 5 shots into 1 ragged hole at 150 yards. shooting 181 grain Hammer Hunter bullets at over 3010 fps out of the factory barrel.

I have no complaints at all
T.P.
How much does the stock on the 70 extreme weigh?
 
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