New shipment of Peterson Brass

I also just added Peterson 338 Lapua.
 
This is what I do with new brass. I de- burr it then neck size for consistency. Prime work up a load I like, then start shooting it up until its all been fired once. I've hunted with new brass for a few years until it was shot up. Others here will say you need to have fire formed brass for proper load development, And that is true. You will get best accuracy with fire formed brass. But with the price of components I'm frugal with mine.
 
I bought the peterson 308 srp brass and loaded it up after necksizing for the first loads. I have an ammo gauge that I checked it out with and then used either Viht N-150 or Lovex S065.
I've used 165 grn speer spbt and speer 168 grn bthp match but best accuracy comes with 175 grn hard cast gc and minimum load minus 5% of N-150. I also loaded up 20 180 grn PMC sp but haven't used them yet, this weekend hopefully.
The brass was really expensive here in the UK but worth every penny from the results I've been getting in my 308 Browning BLR 81 compared to federal and GGG palma brass.
 
I have on occasion had both ADG and Peterson brass that wouldn't chamber without full length sizing. The only time I've run into it was with a new gun where I didn't have any fired brass to check against. It's been a rare occurrence and even then easily remedied with a body die. Running a full size die over new brass doesn't work the case body if it's not to large so once I get the die set, I just full length size new brass.
If my experience is any indication you'd rarely find a problem if you only neck sized.
 
I handle new Peterson brass as I do all brass whether new or once fired. Full length size which mainly only affects neck tension, run through my Henderson trimmer to trim and chamfer and then anneal through my AMP. I know much of this may be redundancy to Petersons prep but in my mind the only way to get consistency of my loads is to be consistent in all loading steps wether new or fired 5 times. I have changed to Peterson for all my reloads and will be using their 300 Weatherby Mag brass for my Yukon trip in September. This brass has at least 5 high pressure handloads on it and still reloads like new; especially primer pockets. I've changed to Peterson in all calibers that I can find for my rifles.
 
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(Peterson Cases) So far I have found that the overall case varied several thousands out of the box unfired. I check about 40 cases. I only trim about 10 case to lenght.
I cut all my necks for thickness. All my equipment is automated so once set up I don't change any thing. So all case are cut to the same lenghts.
 
No reason you can not get hunting accuracy good enough for 400 yd in with virgin cases even if the sizing is a bit varied. Might as well get use from the fireforming IMO. For me it's just a milder load for closer range. As I am on the east coast LR hunting is a voluntary choice and no real bearing on being able to full tags. In fact setting up good LR shots is actually a good bit more work.
 
Load it out of the box as long as the inside of the necks are lightly chamfered . I did no prep to my peterson 22creed brass forming 500 virgin cases it shoots great. Around 5 3 shot groups at 750yards between 1.8-2.5" and several 5shot groups at 100yards in the .4-.5" range with a lightweight rifle.
I have little time and load for a lot of cartridges so I save time anywhere I can as long as my groups still look good.

If I do have some case that are beat up bad enough I will mark them as sighters and separate. But even after shipping my peterson cases looked great and only had a handful out of 500 where the necks were dinged slightly.
 
A quick question related to Peterson brass. Do you load it out of the box, or do some prep?
I work the new brass same as fired brass. I visually inspect all the cases making sure primer holes are clear. I had a batch once where the holes were off center, but they worked fine. I always check case length with a dial micrometer. If they don't fit in my preset micrometer they do get trimmed. I always chamfer the necks, inside and out. Then I full-length size each piece, sometimes the necks get a little smushed during packing/shipping. My final step is to clean it all in my vibratory brass cleaner. I did an experiment once where I checked run-out on a batch of new brass. It didn't pass. but after full-length sizing it would spin true on the run-out gauge. So I figured I didn't need to check run-out anymore If I full-length sized every case. After a few cases are reloaded I will check those with the run-out gauge. Doing this allowed me to find a problem with my press that RCBS fixed for free. Yes it is time consuming. The whole reason that I reload is not to save money, but to build the most accurate ammo that I possibly can. Plus, factory ammo in some of the bullets that I want to use is usually very hard to find. A notebook is your friend, or a laptop file. Keep records on what you find and what you have to correct. I walked away from shooting and hunting for a spell when I started having kids. When I sat down at the bench again after many years those notes cleared up questions that my memory failed to answer. I use a Lyman ammo checker as a go-no go gauge on the finished ammo. If I do all the steps above it almost always passes go-no go. One time a bunch of cartridges didn't and also failed run-out. This exposed a problem with my shell holder in the press. So not only am I guaranteeing myself perfect brass but I am keeping a check on the accuracy of my equipment. For my money, the most consistent out of the box brass, as far as measurements go is Lapua and StarLine. Very little ever needs to be done to these brands of brass.
 
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