New Rifle won't group ...

[ks_shooter]

I recently bought a Savage Model 11 in 7mm-08. I put a Zeiss Conquest 3x9 in Burris Signature rings on it and anxiously went to range to ring out my new hunting rig. I have an older Savage (minus the Accustock and Accutrigger) that is very accurate, but I figured with the improvements on this model, and the higher quality scope, it would really perform.

With five different factory loads (Winchester, Remington, Hornady, Prvi and HSM) I only managed four inch groups at 100 yards. I was expecting quarter sized groups from this rig. I went home frustrated.

I plan to swap out the scope on the next range trip to see if that could be the problem, but the mounting is solid. A check with a boresighter shows that nothing is moving when I give it a couple of good wacks on the muzzle with a rubber mallet.

Since I couldn't get back to the range right away, I decided to slug the barrel and see if anything weird showed up. I found that there was a restriction ahead of the chamber. Once I got it started, I could easily push the slug to within a couple of inches of chamber and then it stopped cold. I had to tap it through with a mallet. I tried a little JB's in the throat in case it was just carbon build up, but the restriction remained. It's hard to say how much the restriction is, but it can't be a lot, since on the second pass the slug feels about the same going down the start of the barrel. It doesn't appear that the slug is being squeezed down a huge amount.

I know that squeezing down a bullet early and having a wider bore at the muzzle is considered "bad for business" in terms of accuracy, but could it cause a barrel to shoot this badly? If this is the problem, what are the odds that I could get Savage to supply a new barrel on Warranty?

Right now I have a $1300 rifle that shoots worse than my SKS ;-(

 

[Bandit19]

Make sure the action screws are tighten properly. I don't own a Savage and don't know anything about this model but with some guns especially with a free floating barrell sometimes the action screws needs to be tightened. This would be a next step. Your gun should be a tack driver in that caliber.

 

[ks_shooter]

Thanks for the reply.

I neglected to mention that I checked the stock mounting. There is a procedure in the owner's manual for tightening the action screws and Accustock wedge screw. I'm pretty sure the stock mounting is secure.

 

[Trickymissfit]

I recently bought a Savage Model 11 in 7mm-08. I put a Zeiss Conquest 3x9 in Burris Signature rings on it and anxiously went to range to ring out my new hunting rig. I have an older Savage (minus the Accustock and Accutrigger) that is very accurate, but I figured with the improvements on this model, and the higher quality scope, it would really perform.

With five different factory loads (Winchester, Remington, Hornady, Prvi and HSM) I only managed four inch groups at 100 yards. I was expecting quarter sized groups from this rig. I went home frustrated.

I plan to swap out the scope on the next range trip to see if that could be the problem, but the mounting is solid. A check with a boresighter shows that nothing is moving when I give it a couple of good wacks on the muzzle with a rubber mallet.

Since I couldn't get back to the range right away, I decided to slug the barrel and see if anything weird showed up. I found that there was a restriction ahead of the chamber. Once I got it started, I could easily push the slug to within a couple of inches of chamber and then it stopped cold. I had to tap it through with a mallet. I tried a little JB's in the throat in case it was just carbon build up, but the restriction remained. It's hard to say how much the restriction is, but it can't me a lot, since on the second pass the slug feels about the same going down the start of the barrel. It doesn't appear that the slug is being squeezed down a huge amount.

I know that squeezing down a bullet early and having a wider bore at the muzzle is considered "bad for business" in terms of accuracy, but could it cause a barrel to shoot this badly? If this is the problem, what are the odds that I could get Savage to supply a new barrel on Warranty?

Right now I have a $1300 rifle that shoots worse than my SKS ;-(

I think you've found the problem! The barrel's bore is tighter at the chamber end than the muzzel, and that's a no no! I'd try running a patch thry the first four or five inches of the throat end that's coated with 800 grit lapping compound. Give it about six or eight strokes, and then clean the barrel. Lube it and run a couple tight patches thru it again (might try and keep track where the tight spots are now. If it's still tight, I'd try lapping it again for about five or six strokes. If it's still tight you may have to do it a couple more times. If it's still tight after four lapping sessions, I'd send the rifle back for a new barrel.

Savage is pretty good about their warranty work, so I wouldn't worry too much there. You good have the dealer ship back to them with a letter explaining the issues
gary

 

[Trickymissfit]

Thanks for the reply.

I neglected to mention that I checked the stock mounting. There is a procedure in the owner's manual for tightening the action screws and Accustock wedge screw. I'm pretty sure the stock mounting is secure.

being as Savage stole my wedge design (they know it) and never asked. Let me tell you how I did the setup up before it was even a slight thought in their minds. First run the action screws down to where they might have about five or ten inch pounds of torque on them at the max. Now tighten the wedge screw to where it's got about 30 inch pounds of torque (I always lubed the wedge with powdered graphite). After that I torqued the front screw (close to the wedge) to about forty inch pounds, and the other at about 35 inch pounds. How Savage says to do it I don't know, but that's how I was doing it fifteen years ago and it works well (do it in ten inch pound steps by the way).

Also check the tang area of the stock to see if it has clearence. Every Savage rifle I've owned had this area touching, and that's a big no no with them.
gary

 

[Derek M.]

You have a bad barrel. Savage should replace it.

 

[shortgrass]

If you try to lap or fix this yourself, and it doesn't work, and then you send it back to Savage, chances are they won't warranty it (the barrel) because you are the one who altered it (the barrel). Send it back as it is if you want them to stand behind their product. If you alter it, you'll own it.

 

[TnTom]

were you shooting 4 - 1" groups or were your groups 4"?

 

[ks_shooter]

were you shooting 4 - 1" groups or were your groups 4"?

4" groups. I could live with 1" groups from a thin profile barrel. I wouldn't like it for the money I spent, but I could live with it.


Thanks to the rest for the other replies. I'm going to swap scopes with a known good scope from my other Savage and check the grouping. If its still bad, I'll contact Savage about a new barrel.

 

[Garry J]

I just got a new 111 Savage Light Hunter in 30-06 and had a Mag-na-port brake put on it. My mistake, I did not shoot it before this work was done. Savages shoot good and Mag-N-Port does good work. So I knew it should shoot 1" or less. After 25 rounds of break-in with a thorough cleaning between each shot. Four different reloads and two factory loads the best group is 5". What a disappointment. Going Antelope hunting next week, gun is staying home. Taking the Savage 270 WSM and 300 Win Mag. They both shoot good.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

I just got a new 111 Savage Light Hunter in 30-06 and had a Mag-na-port brake put on it. My mistake, I did not shoot it before this work was done. Savages shoot good and Mag-N-Port does good work. So I knew it should shoot 1" or less. After 25 rounds of break-in with a thorough cleaning between each shot. Four different reloads and two factory loads the best group is 5". What a disappointment. Going Antelope hunting next week, gun is staying home. Taking the Savage 270 WSM and 300 Win Mag. They both shoot good.

I'll take that one to heart when I put a barrel on my stw in a few years. I'll shoot her a bit first so I don't end up magna porting ( or braking) a crow bar.

 

[Bodywerks]

Thanks for the reply.

I neglected to mention that I checked the stock mounting. There is a procedure in the owner's manual for tightening the action screws and Accustock wedge screw. I'm pretty sure the stock mounting is secure.

The wedge may very well be your problem. I had nothing but problems with the accuwedge. My suggestion is to remove it completely and tighten the forward action to 35in/lb while holding the rifle vertical and putting downward pressure on the action (to ensure the the recoil lug is contacting the accustock pillar fully). Then tighten the rear screw to 35 then the front to 55-60 then rear to 55-60.
Im not talkkng out of my arse here. I'm not sure how old your rifle is, but savage has done away with the accuwedge in newer accustock rifles due to inconsistent performance. I had two older accustock rifles. Both performed better without the wedge.

 

[FEENIX]

Note to self, OP 11-24-2010, 09:46 AMlightbulb

 

[MontanaRifleman]

I just got a new 111 Savage Light Hunter in 30-06 and had a Mag-na-port brake put on it. My mistake, I did not shoot it before this work was done. Savages shoot good and Mag-N-Port does good work. So I knew it should shoot 1" or less. After 25 rounds of break-in with a thorough cleaning between each shot. Four different reloads and two factory loads the best group is 5". What a disappointment. Going Antelope hunting next week, gun is staying home. Taking the Savage 270 WSM and 300 Win Mag. They both shoot good.

Even though this is an old thread, this is still good food for thought.