Tikka T3X Lite won't group...help

[jebel]

I think the 1:11 twist should stabilize 180 gr bullets generally, but it depends more on the length and you didn't mention which bullets you're shooting. Are they monolithics? If yes, they're longer and stability might be an issue, but I still doubt it. The 150 gr you're about to try next will tell you if stability is the issue, or you can run a calculation with an online calculator like JBM.

JBM - Calculations - Stability

www.jbmballistics.com

I'm guessing the comments about consistent hold and not letting the barrel get too hot are instead closer to the mark (assuming you tightened the action screws properly).

Hope you get it firmed up before the hunt.

 

[john k]

If you can tighten the groups up with the 150's or another round the adjust the trigger to a lighter pull and may help more. After shooting enough rounds with that 300 WM, there is possibility of minor flinching. A lighter trigger pull will help. In no way am I suggesting this is the problem but it will help achieve tighter groups once you find which round your rifle likes. Rare to hear of an off the shelf Tikka will not shoot MOA with right ammo. Good luck

 

[mnshortdraw]

One thing I've found over the years is to never assume a rifle is going to like a particular bullet weight based on twist rate. It will get you in the ballpark but that's about it. I have an 8 twist 308 that won't shoot 175's worth a darn but loves 165's and lighter. I have another 308 with a 12 twist that loves 175's but not the lighter stuff. Try some 165's next and take your time to avoid barrel heat.

 

[Of001]

A friendand i had the same issue in 308 t3/t3x light and 3006 t3x light. Barrel heat up, stock touching, rifle jump. We've fixed this by bag/bipod placement and holding techniques for range days but for hunting i do the following:

If i use a bad i put it half on the mag and use the smallest possible.
3 shots, general correction, wait a minimum 1h. 2 shots, correction. Go home. New target, 1 shot, at least 2 hours or go home. Same target 1 shot at least 2 hours go home. Same target 1 shot, correct. Go home. 3 shots home. 3 shots home.

This gets my scope sighted and shows how far from clean my rifle likes to be. Even when messing about with holding or pressure on the stock it hits where its pointed on 3 quick shots.

Its always high right, always, CLEAN cold is about 3-4in up and 3-4 right. 3ish fouling shots brings it to about 1.5 moa up right. And the 6th-9th gets me right on, first is still high right but no more than .25 at 100 and less rham .5in at 200. Following shots are bang on. About .7in at both 100 and 200. At 18 shots its back outside 1moa

 

[Doublezranch]

I had the same situation with the same rifle. I handloaded every single combination I could in every configuration. It just didn't work out. There have been many good suggestions thus far. The best advice mentioned is to bring a rifle you're confident with. If that is not an option, my suggestion is to get within a 100 yards of your target.

When you get home, sell the rifle and buy one you have confidence in.

 

[Tommo64]

I have a Tikka T3X lite in 308 and yes, when shooting off a bench you have to hold that forend firm. Also, these rifles have a pressure point in the forestock, two small projections that support the barrel just forward of the taper. Therefore, these barrels are not truly free floating and so accuracy will be affected by the barrel becoming hot. I chose to bed my action and free float the barrel and saw a definite improvement in terms of group sizes.

 

[huntoregon]

Well the 150 grain ammo shot pretty poor also. 2.5" group at 100

He is going to borrow a rifle for his hunt.

Yes on the factory stock. He just bought this rifle and it is all stock out of the box. We will check the recoil lug area but like I said it's new and never been apart. So unless the factory assembled it wrong it should be ok.

 

[MajorSpittle]

Typically between 2-3" at 100 yards. What do you mean by needing to hold down pressure on the forearm?

Well, I hold on to the forearm tight with some down pressure on the front bipod. I have also used a shooting sling with the bipod. Letting the rifle have any amount of free recoil opens the group up. I am guessing it is because of the recoil lug system they use with the light plastic stock.

 

[imyourhuckleberry]

Your tikka has the same twist as my 30-06. The 1-11 twist will stabilize heavier bullets but it will not shoot them as accurately as you would like. Try lighter bullets my 06 did not like 180 grainers or 150 grainers. It loved the factory 165 and 168 grainers. Shoots sub moa at 200 yards. Since you don't reload I shot the best groups using the Winchester Silver tip. The 165 or 168 grainers are more than adequate for elk.

I used to have a contact point where the barrel would touch the forearm when it got hot. I sanded it away until it would not touch. Run a dollar bill make sure barrel is free floated. After 3 shots run it again if barrel makes contact with the forearm it will get stuck. That is where I would start sanding until the barrel floats. Repeat as necessary down the channel of the stock.

 

[ascott]

I just finished developing a load for my cousins 300 wm in that exact same rifle. I found out quickly it liked the 165 gr sierras and nothing heavier. That gun is BRUTAL to shoot so I adjusted the trigger down to 2.5 lbs and added weight to the stock. When I gave it back to him last week I had a 1.5 inch group at 300 yards but I literally drank a cup of coffee between shots.

 

[MajorSpittle]

My t3 lite 30-06 shoots bugholes with 178gr amax bullets. Also shoots 208 eldm sub moa just fine. This is at 1000ft and lower velocities than a 300wm.

 

[MajorSpittle]

He doesn't reload so we are looking for factory ammo. I know factory ammo isn't phenomenal but this thing is all over

https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/ballistically-challenged-tikka-t3-lite-30-06.98421/

Take a look at that thread and see if it helps at all.

 

[Kimber7man]

I'd check to make sure the action is seated properly on the recoil lug and re-torque the action bolts.

I've got a 223 T3 Varmint that goes from a tack-driver to a shotgun if the lug isn't down in its recess properly or if the action is seated on it in a bind.

This. Based on your comments you haven't taken the barreled action out of the stock. I'd do that, and then reassemble making sure the barreled action is seated firmly in the recoil lug. Tighten action screws to proper torque settings and shoot it.

 

[Andrew Massi]

Thread it for a brake and install a limb saver and those groups might just shrink a bit