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I agree compleatly ! I have several VX6hd's , they are fantastic as well as the TMOA reticle . The 4.5x14 was offered up as a lower cost ,light weight, sleak scope option that is more then capable for a mountain gun . Plus I like the fact that you have two turns on the zero stop turret on the vx6 vs 1 turn on a cds .The TMOA reticle has another 15-20 MOA also . If those are not a big factor in your build then go VX6HD for sure .
 
The LRHS does look pretty good. I would like to keep it under 30oz. for sure.

Probably 16-20 max magnification and probably FFP.
 
The problem was the shot placement/bullet combo, the 7RM is more than capable of one shot kills on Elk from 800-1000yds. A good friend of ours who guided in CO for more than twenty years has killed over 40 of them with his over the years out to well beyond 800, most of which fell stone dead with a single well paced shot and the Nosler Partition shooting a compressed load of H870.

How do you know shot placement or bullet was the issue, given the fact that you weren't even there and did not observe the shot placement? I have to admit I'm very irritated by keyboard commandos who have to make such uninformed judgements lacking actual facts.

The FACT is that this gentlemen was a seasoned hunter and put his rounds where they needed to be, even as the elk was moving after the first shot. His ability was admirable, actually. I helped him with his elk so I know first hand where his bullets hit. However being close in to the elk the noise spooked the elk and he moved as fast as he could, as hard as he could. It simply takes a larger round to "stone dead" elk if they are shot close in and spooked.

Shoot the same elk at 600-800 yards when they have no idea what just happened, they are more likely to stand there until they drop. This is a well0known phenomenon in the long range community and so I can't imagine you aren't familiar with it.

While many fall elk with 7mms, there is a reason many such as myself favor rounds beginning with .3. Larger calibers simply put these tough animals who live in tough terrain down faster and more reliably. When ranges are described at 500 yds + this advice is only amplified.

I've seen more mixed results with 6.5s on elk at any range than larger caliber options. YMMV, but if I had a better option, I'd take it.
 
How do you know shot placement or bullet was the issue, given the fact that you weren't even there and did not observe the shot placement? I have to admit I'm very irritated by keyboard commandos who have to make such uninformed judgements lacking actual facts.

The FACT is that this gentlemen was a seasoned hunter and put his rounds where they needed to be, even as the elk was moving after the first shot. His ability was admirable, actually. I helped him with his elk so I know first hand where his bullets hit. However being close in to the elk the noise spooked the elk and he moved as fast as he could, as hard as he could. It simply takes a larger round to "stone dead" elk if they are shot close in and spooked.

Shoot the same elk at 600-800 yards when they have no idea what just happened, they are more likely to stand there until they drop. This is a well0known phenomenon in the long range community and so I can't imagine you aren't familiar with it.

While many fall elk with 7mms, there is a reason many such as myself favor rounds beginning with .3. Larger calibers simply put these tough animals who live in tough terrain down faster and more reliably. When ranges are described at 500 yds + this advice is only amplified.

I've seen more mixed results with 6.5s on elk at any range than larger caliber options. YMMV, but if I had a better option, I'd take it.
I know because if the shot placement had been perfect the animal would have died in it's tracks.

I know as well because a very close family friend has put more than 40 elk in the freezer over the last thirty years shooting the same 700bdl 7RM, shooting the same load with the same 175gr partition bullet at ranges out to at least 850yds. In all that time he's never lost one and never had one run over 100yds because he can always put it in the right spot.

If you interrupt the nervous system or break the upper legs/shoulders the animal cannot continue.

If you put a quarter or larger sized hole through the heart/lungs with a good entry and exit would and they die every time and do so without being able to run more than 50-200yds.

Neither the physics nor the physiology are that difficult to under stand.

Choose the right bullet and put it in the right place and the animal dies every time.
 
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I know because if the shot placement had been perfect the animal would have died in it's tracks.

So a perfectly shot animal will "die in its tracks", but you say later a well shot animal can travel "50-200 yards". So which one is it? The fact is this bull did NOT travel 200 yards, but did not "die in its tracks", but as it was moving the skilled hunter kept placing rounds through the chest until the animal was down as we should all seek to do.

So what exactly are you arguing?

Some of us simply prefer larger calibers as extra insurance. Opinions differ. Get over it.
 
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So a perfectly shot animal will "die in its tracks", but you say later a well shot animal can travel "50-200 yards". So which one is it? The fact is this bull did NOT travel 200 yards, but did not "die in its tracks", but as it was moving the skilled hunter kept placing rounds through the chest until the animal was down as we should all seek to do.

So what exactly are you arguing?

Some of us simply prefer larger calibers as extra insurance. Opinions differ. Get over it.
When you interrupt the CNS they die where they are standing.

If you put a good shot through the heart/lungs, they may run up to a couple of hundred yards.

Combine either of those with breaking the shoulders/upper legs and they don't go anywhere or a few body lengths max.

It isn't that difficult to understand.

All of this of course assumes you're using a bullet designed for the job that performs as intended.
 
Just thought I would update this to where I am now. I bought the CA Mesa, put a 20 MOA rail on it (bedded and leveled), put an extra hole and t nut (with epoxy bedding etc) up front and a pic rail/QD for bipod and a little carbon fiber tripod I rigged up. Seekins precision low rings and an Athlon Ares FFP 4.5-27x50 MOA @ 27.3 oz.

Have only had the chance to take it out once and doing the OCD break-in with successive 3 shot groups and aggressive cleaning between. Started with 140 ELD-M, first 5 groups went progressively from 1.25 to about .625 groups off of crappy caldwell bags and portable table. Probably going back out tomorrow if weather doesn't suck and run another box through it.

Overall very happy with how this rifle shoots on multiple levels.
 
Just thought I would update this to where I am now. I bought the CA Mesa, put a 20 MOA rail on it (bedded and leveled), put an extra hole and t nut (with epoxy bedding etc) up front and a pic rail/QD for bipod and a little carbon fiber tripod I rigged up. Seekins precision low rings and an Athlon Ares FFP 4.5-27x50 MOA @ 27.3 oz.

Have only had the chance to take it out once and doing the OCD break-in with successive 3 shot groups and aggressive cleaning between. Started with 140 ELD-M, first 5 groups went progressively from 1.25 to about .625 groups off of crappy caldwell bags and portable table. Probably going back out tomorrow if weather doesn't suck and run another box through it.

Overall very happy with how this rifle shoots on multiple levels.
Good to hear. Most seem to settle in between 40-75rds accuracy wise and then velocity will tend to increase. Sounds like you're off to a pretty good start!
 
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