New rifle for colorado elk 2013

[In2thinair]

How much does a basic reload kit cost in order to make .308 ammo?

 

[Topgun 30-06]

Click on this Cabelas link and this is all you'll need in one package to get you started other than .308 dies, shell holder for the press, a decent set of calipers, and possibly a powder trickler that I find real handy when using my 505 scale. There is a $5 shipping deal right now that may apply and there is definitely the $50 rebate on the sale. I'd say for around $400 you should be off and running.





Cabela's: RCBS® Rock Chucker Supreme Master Reloading Kit

 

[In2thinair]

I appreciate the info.
Thanks.

 

[wstanton]

For simply getting into the reloading game, I'd look at the basic Lee reloading kits. When I first started, like you I was a little hesitant at the cost and complexity, so I started up at about 250-300$ for everything I needed including the powder and +1 on what the others are saying, Give it a few months and I'm sure your 308 will be back on the shelves.

 

[roninflag]

what 308 do you have ? do you want a heavy longrange rifle like a sendero or a light one like a tikka? get a rifle and a reloading press. rcbs puts a out a free basic reloading guide.

 

[7mm Magnum]

There's plenty of excellent rifle choices out there and any excuse to buy a new one works for me. I certainly wouldn't base a decision on current ammo availability, perhaps a reloading setup would be in order instead of a new rifle????

I personally feel that this is his best alternative,.. use your $$ that you were thinking of using for a rifle and "invest" it into reloading gear for what calibers you already own.

Build your own ammo and you'll never have to worry about it being scarce or too expensive.

Every time these jack-wagons in Washington get a hair in their *** about gun restrictions the same story happens,.. ammo is scarce and everything it takes to make it on your own.

Once this round comes back down to reality you can stock up on things you'll need to manufacture your own ammo and get some extra supplies for the next time it happens,.. there always seems to be a "next time",.. Unfortunatly,..

 

[Deleted member 25294]

I will agree with what everyone has said about the benefit of handloading. However if you are really looking for a good caliber specifically for elk I would encourage you to move up from the 308 win, especially if you have the ability to take shots over 400 yards.
I shot my first bull (a heavy bodied 6x6) with a 308 at 80 yards, I had to put 3 shots in him and two were right behind the shoulder. he ran 100 yards before going down, I was lucky to get multiple shots, who knows how far he would have made it otherwise. In thick timber anything less than an instant kill can be a disaster.
My girlfriend shot a bull last year at 90 yards with a 308 and that was the end of that caliber for us! the bullet hit right in the rear portion of the shoulder and only penetrated about 8 inches, stopping against the lung. luckily the broken shoulder slowed him down enough for us to track him a quarter mile and make a kill shot.
My point is that when a shot is not perfect with a 308 you will risk losing an elk.
I have seen a 300 win mag blow through an elks shoulder bone and lodge in the opposite shoulder at 150 yards, that kind of penetration is what I would consider when selecting an elk caliber.
If you don't mind a little more recoil do yourself and the elk a favor; go with a 7mm, 300 mag, or 338.

 

[Topgun 30-06]

blackaj---May I ask what bullets were used on those two instances you mentioned using the .308? It sounds to me like they weren't a bonded bullet!

 

[429421Cowboy]

If you are looking at a new rifle, my one and only choice for a dedicated elk rig would be a .338 of some ilk (Win mag, RUM, RCM...Lapua), there is plenty of ammo on the shelves and reloading components since they generally don't use the supplies the calibers that are getting a run on do.

However, i too would suggest starting to reload, it is a very rewarding and useful skill! I started reloading to shoot more, now i shoot to be able to reload more! I taught myself how to load when i was 17, it really is not very complicated if you follow the safety rules and make sure you understand each step before you perform it. .308 would be a good caliber to learn to load from as well, and should show you some money savings in the long run, especially since you will be able to load premium bullets for less than you would spend on the cheapest commercial rounds before.
The way things are today, i would not be able to shoot any of my handguns had i not started reloading beforehand, i have never regretted starting!
Welcome to the forum!

 

[wackinandstackin243]

For elk I would suggest the as much power as you can shoot well. I have seen calm elk go down easily with a 243 and seen elk that were spooked hardly flinch from multiple well placed 338 shots. I dont know what unit or units you plan on hunting but public units in CO can be tough to get a standing shot by the time rifle season comes around. Whatever you choose make sure you practice and follow up on your shots. Elk can be tough to put down and sometimes hard to even tell if they were hit. And sometimes there are a million other hunters who try to tag it before you can get to your kill.

 

[Deleted member 25294]

blackaj---May I ask what bullets were used on those two instances you mentioned using the .308? It sounds to me like they weren't a bonded bullet!

I used federal factory 180 grain ammo so it was not bonded bullets, however I did recover all of the bullets that were fired and they retained an average of 80% weight. the expansion was a text book mushroom with the jacket intact to the core, at low 308 velocities (2600 fps with 180's) I don't think a bonded bullet would be necessary in improving penetration.
I would definitely blame the lack of killing power on lack of power from the round.
I know that people always have a story about dropping an elk in it's tracks from a well placed shot with a .243, this may be the case in ideal conditions but any elk hunter knows that ideal only happens consistently at the range.
Bottom line: don't chance it! there is nothing worse than the feeling of making an animal suffer because some dim wit told you that an elk will drop with a 243/308.

 

[Boman]

Above poster has it right, get a 338. Id go with the .338 win or .340 wby. not many shoot the .338s so lots of ammi on shelves. I personally love the .340wby since you dont reload. good luck

 

[wackinandstackin243]

For the record I never said I have seen elk drop in their tracks with a 243. But I have seen a few shot in the vitals that really didnt cover any ground after the shot and went down quickly without any tracking.

I personally use a 338 or 7mm mag for elk most of the time. I even consider the 7mm to be light duty for elk but when I have a deer and elk liscence for the same season, deer take priority. Colorado used to require deer and elk to be hunted the same season for rifle hunters. I did not have very good luck with nosler partitions for elk. It seemed like they didnt expand enough and didnt do much internal damage. Like I said in my earlier post is I believe in shooting the biggest rifle you can shoot accurately for elk.

 

[8 SNAKE]

at low 308 velocities (2600 fps with 180's) I don't think a bonded bullet would be necessary in improving penetration.
I would definitely blame the lack of killing power on lack of power from the round.

A .308 should be more than adequate to take down an elk at 90 yards. You may choose to blame the round, but in my view that is misguided and the focus should be on bullet selection. Take a quick look at some ballistics charts and you'll see my point. A .308 spitting 180's has more energy at 100 yards than a 300 WM spitting 180's at 300 yards, yet you feel confident in the WM at 400+ yards. With all due respect, the numbers don't seem to support your view.