New Reloader question...

[BoomFlop]

I am wanting to reload to utilize non-factory options. Anyway, I know RCBS offers the Rock Chucker Supreme Kit. I am wondering if I would be better purchasing the Rock Chucker Press and Chargemaster Lite Scale instead. I can purchase a hand priming tool (or prime on press), debur too and Imperial Sizing Wax or Hornady OneShot seperately. I know it maybe slightly more expensive, but would I be better off going this route for quality reloads?

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Steve

 

[YZ-80]

I have the press in question and also the Chargemaste Light but did use the 505 triple beam balance for years. I definitely prefer the RCBS hand priming tool over the apparatus you put on the press. It just gives me a better feel for what's going on with my primer pockets. I like having the triple beam balance around too so I can QC the Chargemaster once in a while.

 

[Jud96]

In my opinion, the only advantage to the Charge Master powder measures is speed. They're not as accurate as a good digital or beam scale. I have thought about getting a Charge Master a couple of times, but I have heard complaints about them. I use a Redding BR3 powder measure set a few tenths light and I trickle up to my final charge weight and measure on a Bald Eagle digital scale that measures to the hundredths place and not just the tenths like most scales. This process isn't as fast as the Charge Master, but it's not slow and I know it's precise.

I'm also not the biggest fan of the RCBS Rock Chucker presses. I think they're too big for anything except maybe RUM and larger sized cases. I use an old RCBS JR. 2 press thats super smooth, loads very true ammo, and has very good feel when seating bullets. The Rock Chucker from my experience, doesn't offer as much feel when seating bullets. I like to be able to feel the bullet go in the case. That's just a personal preference. If I was buying new, I'd look into the RCBS Partner press.

As far as primer seating. I'm also not a fan of using the press to seat primers. It offers no feel and you can't determine how loose or tight a primer pocket is. I use an old Lee hand priming tool. The model I have has since been replaced with a newer model that I'm not the biggest fan of. I still would prefer any hand priming tool over using the press.

 

[FURMAN]

If you have the money to buy better stuff the kit will be a waste of money. You will outgrow almost everything in it very quickly. I would recommend buying the individual pieces you want/need. The Rock Chucker and Chargemaster lite will make a great start.

 

[Calvin45]

I prefer doing as much by hand as possible, hand priming and weighing out each individual charge. I've never used a powder measure of any kind. It's more satisfying and for me saving time is against the spirit of this hobby, the whole point is to STOP hurrying or trying to get more done in less time. Again, just what I find enjoyable.

 

[JTB]

I prefer the Forster Co-ax press and use the chargemaster exclusively. Prefer the Forster die locking rings on all my dies when using the Co-ax press. Recommend setting the chargemaster to meter 0.1 gr less than needed and use a pick to manually draw out single grains of powder to get precise as possible powder charge (1-4 additional kernels of powder on average to target weight), if you are that picky. Another measure you can take is to place a plastic straw inside the metering tube (see youtube) and place 2 empty primer boxes under the front of the chargemaster so it aims slightly up hill and it will improve consistency considerably. Seems you wouldn't have to take these extra steps to improve factory equipment but it works. The Frankford hand primer tool is very nice but I don't mind using the Co-ax for priming either. Imperial wax is what I use.

 

[FURMAN]

I prefer the Forster Co-ax press and use the chargemaster exclusively. Prefer the Forster die locking rings on all my dies when using the Co-ax press. Recommend setting the chargemaster to meter 0.1 gr less than needed and use a pick to manually draw out single grains of powder to get precise as possible powder charge (1-4 additional kernels of powder on average to target weight), if you are that picky. Another measure you can take is to place a plastic straw inside the metering tube (see youtube) and place 2 empty primer boxes under the front of the chargemaster so it aims slightly up hill and it will improve consistency considerably. Seems you wouldn't have to take these extra steps to improve factory equipment but it works. The Frankford hand primer tool is very nice but I don't mind using the Co-ax for priming either. Imperial wax is what I use.

I will second the COAX but it is not necessary for a newbie. If you know you will still be reloading in ten or twenty years and can afford it you will not regret the purchase.

 

[azsugarbear]

Had several RCBS presses. Now use the Forster co-ax. Forget the kit. Buy only what you need. Used equipment costs less and most reloading items do not wear out. Get the best scale you can afford, but stay away from electronic.

 

[Garou_22]

I've been using a rock chucker for 30 years with a hand thrown RCBS powder throw and trickler. And have used RCBS beam scales, Dillon digital, and the Chargemaster 1500. I've found that as long as each and every session is begun by using the calibration procedure for either of the digital scales, the charges are within a tenth grain of target. I agree with all the statements about using a hand primer vs press and the old Lee is my preferred. I've gravitated toward the Redding S bushing micrometer dies from RCBS since I can adjust neck tension fairly easily with them as well as depths. I also think that if the funds are available buy each piece as you'll outgrow the kit in fairly short order; a year if you really take to reloading to five years if you only dabble with it now and again.

 

[misterc01]

Love newbie questions - makes us think. First - stop and do a lot of studying before you start spending money. Anyway, If you are loading for long to really long range, then a single stage press gives you more control over the entire process, and my RC Supreme can handle up to 50 BMG (some day a Barrett….). I also got my RC Supreme new on sale for less that they were going for on eBay, so do not hurry purchases!Having said that. if I were starting over, I might go with RCSB Summit, or the RC Supreme and add a K&M Arbor press just for seating with a Wilson seating die. powder - I use a Lyman DPS II for powder dispensing, then use either an RCBS 5-0-5 an Ohaus 10-10 to verify weight, and when they agree, check about every 10 cases after that. I use a Lee Precision auto bench primer - I like the ease tactile feedback it gives me. In the end. WHATEVER you decide that gets YOU the consistent, precision final product is what matters. I suspect all of here have our "favorites" that work for us, but YOU make your final decision. And like most, if not all of us here, Is suspect you will add and replace things when better comes along and as we learned. Have fun and be safe!Time and experience will

 

[Pointman]

Not a real fan of the kit concept. It does get a new loader most of what he/she really needs. I had n RCBS JR in the early '70's and it served me well with my old 30-06. I had a custom varmint rifle built in25-06 and since there wasn't a lot of 25-06 ammo let alone brass available, I had to use an RBCS trim die to neck down old military surplus 06 brass. The JR press just wasn't cutting it, so I sold it and got my Rock Chucker in late '71. I still use it but did splurge on a M.E.C. metallic press with a floating shell holder for seating. My concentricity tool is rarely needed to "tweak" a round. I do like my Chargemaster. I still use my "old" Lyman scale (still has the price tag $11.95) to double check the occasional load. Except for the presses, I put my scales and powder measures back into their boxes and store them in tubs on furniture dollies under the bench. Keeps them and the bench cleaner. I prime with a hand tool, better feel and don't have the issue of the press primer throwing the primer on the floor.

 

[bengineer]

I second the "don't buy a kit" ideal. Buy what you need. I use a Co-Ax that I picked up at a gun show for $100. I love it so much I bought one for my dad. I have an RCBS AmmoMaster for loading long stuff, but use it for pulling bullets and a few other tasks, too. A Forster 68 for seating bullets and a few other tasks. And a new Lyman turret for oddballs; I leave the dies in the turrets and just swap turrets. I load all my pistol and revolver on a Dillon 550, and a lot of my volume rounds, too. I even use the Dillon once I have found an accurate load using Newberry's OCW method with great results and a major time savings. I even have a Lee hand press for the odd time on the road or doing mindless stuff away from the bench.
I always work up loads with a balance beam scale, either as a primary or as a check on a Chargemaster. I sent some ammo with a buddy to South Africa; all those charges were from the Chargemaster. I weighed every one twice on both scales and now I am confident that if I calibrate it before I start it is trustworthy.
Use Imperial wax. I also use lanolin/alcohol or Dillon case lube for volume loading. A quick wash in a plastic tub with a splash of alcohol takes the lanolin off when the rounds are loaded.
I have a Crest ultrasonic, tried the Hornady model and sold it, stainless media in a Thumbler's big tumbler and a Dillon small vibratory. I usually clean my brass in a mix of walnut and corncob in the Dillon with Dillon's blue goop in the media. Stainless media and lemishine works wonderfully, but I hate the tedium of separation and drying. The ultrasonic is slower than I had hoped for, so I clean dirty suppressor guts in it and stuff for other people.
I use every brand of shellholder, but I try to marry one shellholder and die set to each gun. I try.
I measure and record every possible dimension that I can think of when I make ammo. I measure and record every possible dimension that I can think of. (that bears repeating, but no caps yet) I use Co-Ax die lock rings because I have a co-ax press that likes them; they don't work on the 550 toolheads.
Make sure your primers are flush or deeper than the case head.
Most any reloading press will do. If dies won't do, there is something wrong with them. Some shellholders won't fit in my RCBS hand primer (Redding's knurled ones). Clean your brass before you load. Ditto reloading dies. Oil moving press parts. Keep your dirty fingers off your clean bullets. Use the right powder; ONLY ONE POWDER ON THE BENCH AT A TIME!
Find someone to mentor you; he can save you thousands of dollars, hundreds of hours, and a dozen fingers and eyes.

 

[Calvin45]

Had several RCBS presses. Now use the Forster co-ax. Forget the kit. Buy only what you need. Used equipment costs less and most reloading items do not wear out. Get the best scale you can afford, but stay away from electronic.

I've never had any problems with my electronic scale (also bought a kit when I got into reloading, hornady. Came with press, hand primer tool and press tool which I don't use, powder measure which I don't use, scale, loading block, reloading manual - big reason I bought the kit was hornady was running an awesome promo that year, and for buying the kit they sent me 500 130 grain interlocks for my 270). I do want to get a beam scale or two just to compare, see if they agree with each other. But the hornady electronic scale has been just awesome in my experience.

The thing I've never regretted is that I bought a chronograph before anything else. I can't imagine doing this blind

 

[Calvin45]

Love newbie questions - makes us think. First - stop and do a lot of studying before you start spending money. Anyway, If you are loading for long to really long range, then a single stage press gives you more control over the entire process, and my RC Supreme can handle up to 50 BMG (some day a Barrett….). I also got my RC Supreme new on sale for less that they were going for on eBay, so do not hurry purchases!Having said that. if I were starting over, I might go with RCSB Summit, or the RC Supreme and add a K&M Arbor press just for seating with a Wilson seating die. powder - I use a Lyman DPS II for powder dispensing, then use either an RCBS 5-0-5 an Ohaus 10-10 to verify weight, and when they agree, check about every 10 cases after that. I use a Lee Precision auto bench primer - I like the ease tactile feedback it gives me. In the end. WHATEVER you decide that gets YOU the consistent, precision final product is what matters. I suspect all of here have our "favorites" that work for us, but YOU make your final decision. And like most, if not all of us here, Is suspect you will add and replace things when better comes along and as we learned. Have fun and be safe!Time and experience will

I second your initial point: RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH!!!!! i can't tell you how many YouTube tutorials and online articles by experienced and skilled reloaders and shooters I watched before getting into this, and still am reading and watching all the time. Never stop learning. You never know all there is to know.

And don't be shy to ask lots of questions, even if they seem stupid, and do share your experiences and findings with others who share this hobby, and not just successes. It's beneficial that we all talk to each other.