New Barrel Break-in And Cleaning Methods

[cajun]

I'm reading through this thread again, as I recently purchased my first "decent" rifle, a Tikka T3X. Want to make sure I don't mess it up by breaking it in wrong, or not at all.

You're talking about "smoothing out" reamer marks. Tikka barrels are cold forged. There shouldn't be any reamer marks. Am I missing something?

When a chamber is reamed there are tool marks in the throat area that even on a lapped custom barrel you will have. So your basically breaking in the throat. On a factory rifle that is not lapped you may have some tooling marks from the button or the hammer forging process. I do the clean every shot for 5. Then see how the patches look. On a custom the fouling stops pretty quick. Let the barrel tell you what it needs.

 

[Idaho Lefty]

I'm reading through this thread again, as I recently purchased my first "decent" rifle, a Tikka T3X. Want to make sure I don't mess it up by breaking it in wrong, or not at all.

You're talking about "smoothing out" reamer marks. Tikka barrels are cold forged. There shouldn't be any reamer marks. Am I missing something?

YES, they are Cold Hammer Forged Barrels ( the precision Hole and the Rifling Part ). BUT, the Chamber is "Reamed out" afterward and has, minor "Burrs" / Sharp Edges at, the "Throat area" where it meets the bore, left. ( AFTER Reaming for, whatever Cartridge, they want to make ).
ALL Barrels are Bored, Rifled, then, the Chambers are cut, LAST. My Break-in Method, is some Very MINOR "Polishing" at, the edges ( and Ramp ) of, the Throat area and the sharp Rifling, "lands". Those sharp Land edges and throat, being, a bit "Polished" means that, LESS Copper and Carbon can, "latch on to it during firing. JB's is, a Mild abrasive, just don't go Crazy and,. overdo it.