undecided
Member
It makes a click like it wants to go off but that's when you gotta keep going and you get the hard pull
-
If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here
Need some help identifying grandfather's collection
- Thread starter undecided
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
GW Hunter
Well-Known Member
Try Numrich Gun Parts corporation.
gunpartscorp.com
gunpartscorp.com
Lapuatom
Well-Known Member
That's a really cool looking gun
Wv shooter
Well-Known Member
I am pretty sure the 8x57 IS that the IS Stood for infantry Spitzer I have a Mauser with eagle facing left and duel set triggers love those old mausers
epoletna
Well-Known Member
I have had several old Mausers. Yours is a nice one, although the stock is not exactly to my taste.
Let me try to explain about the trigger. The rear trigger is the one you "set". It should pull back about 1/8", and stop there. Then pulling the front trigger (which will typically be very light) releases the rear trigger, which flies up and hits a rocker on the bottom of the action. That rocker is the sear, and when you hit it from the bottom with a smart snap, it releases the cocking piece and the rifle fires.
Since it is old and has not been fired in a while, there are a number of problems that can creep in. The spring that snaps the rear trigger into the rocker might be broken. Rust might have crept in around the triggers so they don't move freely. The front trigger, which releases the rear one, might have the overtravel screw turned down too far so it doesn't release the rear one.
You have removed the trigger assembly from the stock, so you can test whether or not it is working by pulling the rear trigger to set it, then pulling the front trigger to see if it releases the rear one, and the rear one snaps up. It should snap up with a good strong snap, as it has to release the sear. If it does not, but you can push it forward and it goes up ok, the spring is either gummed up or dirty.
If setting the rear trigger works ok, but the front trigger doesn't release the rear one, there should be a screw through the bottom of the front trigger than you can turn. Try turning it out and see if that allows the rear trigger to snap up.
If both of those work as they should, look for the rocker on the bottom of the action. Cock the rifle and strike the rocker with a small hammer. If that releases the cocking piece, then there might be a problem of alignment between the trigger assembly and the rocker -- not likely, since it is pillar bedded.
First step in this process is probably to soak the entire trigger assembly in kerosene -- it is probably filled with dirt and rust.
The file marks, BTW, and not at all unusual on these old triggers.
Let me know how this goes.
Let me try to explain about the trigger. The rear trigger is the one you "set". It should pull back about 1/8", and stop there. Then pulling the front trigger (which will typically be very light) releases the rear trigger, which flies up and hits a rocker on the bottom of the action. That rocker is the sear, and when you hit it from the bottom with a smart snap, it releases the cocking piece and the rifle fires.
Since it is old and has not been fired in a while, there are a number of problems that can creep in. The spring that snaps the rear trigger into the rocker might be broken. Rust might have crept in around the triggers so they don't move freely. The front trigger, which releases the rear one, might have the overtravel screw turned down too far so it doesn't release the rear one.
You have removed the trigger assembly from the stock, so you can test whether or not it is working by pulling the rear trigger to set it, then pulling the front trigger to see if it releases the rear one, and the rear one snaps up. It should snap up with a good strong snap, as it has to release the sear. If it does not, but you can push it forward and it goes up ok, the spring is either gummed up or dirty.
If setting the rear trigger works ok, but the front trigger doesn't release the rear one, there should be a screw through the bottom of the front trigger than you can turn. Try turning it out and see if that allows the rear trigger to snap up.
If both of those work as they should, look for the rocker on the bottom of the action. Cock the rifle and strike the rocker with a small hammer. If that releases the cocking piece, then there might be a problem of alignment between the trigger assembly and the rocker -- not likely, since it is pillar bedded.
First step in this process is probably to soak the entire trigger assembly in kerosene -- it is probably filled with dirt and rust.
The file marks, BTW, and not at all unusual on these old triggers.
Let me know how this goes.
epoletna
Well-Known Member
I forgot to say, most double set triggers were designed in such a way that if you did not want to "set" the rear trigger, you could pull the front one and it would eventually put enough pressure on the rocker to release the sear.
The first thing to do, though, is to see if the trigger can be set and released. If not, you have the problem isolated.
BTW, I have a spare double set trigger. Of course I don't know if the screw spacing and other dimensions are such that it would work where yours is, but they are available used on various sites.
If it is possible to post videos on this site, I could post one. Someone would have to talk me through the process, though.
The first thing to do, though, is to see if the trigger can be set and released. If not, you have the problem isolated.
BTW, I have a spare double set trigger. Of course I don't know if the screw spacing and other dimensions are such that it would work where yours is, but they are available used on various sites.
If it is possible to post videos on this site, I could post one. Someone would have to talk me through the process, though.
Riflehunter1776
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2017
- Messages
- 1,088
same as the 1888 commission rifle. the imperial german army converted them by creating a huge amount of freebore which swaged the .323 bullet down to .318, at the cost of excessive recoil.
unfortunately .318 is very hard to find. 32 cal, which is .321, nearly splits the difference
I will put this as politely and gently as I can, I am really not trying to give you a hard time. My suggestion would be to find a good gunsmith and get him to put it back in working order. Based on your questions and apparent level of knowledge this is not something you should be doing yourself. The dangers associated with getting it wrong are quite large, and the potential to ruin what looks to be a fairly nice piece while not dangerous is also something to consider. Best of luck and let us know how you make out.
shortgrass
Well-Known Member
Double set triggers are strictly a hand fit proposition. That is why you see file marks. There are no "drop-in" parts in the system.
shinbone
Well-Known Member
Beautiful gun!
While it is at the gunsmith for the trigger, might as well have him do a chamber cast so there is no doubt what the cartridge is.
While it is at the gunsmith for the trigger, might as well have him do a chamber cast so there is no doubt what the cartridge is.
undecided
Member
I did say in a previous post that I knew nothing about this. Just trying to get some insight into it from people that know more than I do is all I'm attempting.
Ardon
Member
I have 2 commission rifles, slugged both barrels and found one is .318 and one is .323. I have a vague memory of reading that many .318's were re-barrelled to .323. In my opinion, it's not the best idea to use the .323 in the .318 barrel, so I don't. I was able to pick up some boxes of Norma 8MM-.318 bullets. If you contact me, I would be glad to sell a box. If you would prefer to go commercial, then Hawk bullets has some. Have fun with it.
https://hawkbullets.com/ordering.html
