My new Savage 338 LM 110 HS Precision

I know this is super old, but for anyone looking for more elevation in a base, contact EGW.

I just spoke with them about getting a 40 MOA base so I can try to get by with a Viper PST 6-24 on the 110 FCP I'm going to get. Only cost $20 extra to get them to "make" you a 40 MOA base. Here's quoted email:


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INFO
9:58 AM (14 hours ago)

to me
Chris,

We do not offer a 40 moa base for the Savage. We could mill a 40moa from a 0 moa. I would suggest using the HD base to do the custom moa. The cost is 69.99 for the base and 20.00 for the custom moa and re-anodizing. It takes about 4 weeks for the custom moa. Please let me know if I can be of any further assistance.

Best regards,
Jim
Staff
Evolution Gun Works, Inc.
52 Belmont Ave.
Quakertown Pa 18951
(215) 538-1012 fx 1016
Visit Us Online: Evolution Gun Works Inc..
 
hey guys.

im new to this forum although i have reading it for quite some time.

i purchased a savage 110 fcp hs just a month ago, a 2014 version from the new cabelas.

several things i noticed which i think should be shared.
1. magazine...

it says on the side of the mag "fits up to 3.850" but it doesnt... it actually mic's out to 3.7555 and fits 3.74 without problems.
this is a bit of pain in the ***, because i have found berger 300OTMs end up at 3.8675 for this rifle. ie cant use the mag for those bullets.

other 285 gr hornaday BTHP fit in the mag with an OAL of 3.725 and they shoot well too.

2. loads...
only had a chance to try a few different types so far, ive been using IMR7828. its a nice slow burn powder for the bigger bullets, and its been making good groups.
I started at nearly the bottom of the recommended weight from the lyman book (77gr), after the first batch being so easy shooting, i stepped up several grains to my current trials at 79gr. it says max cup is at 80gr.

the 285s ive been pushing harder at 81gr with good results.
all with nosler premium brass and federal match magnum primers.

i will be trying new powders soon. new bullets as well.

3. the rail...
ive read several places that factory rifles had flat rails. they must have changed it because mine came with a 20moa rail. with the optic im running i now have tons of adjustment.

4. the gun itself.

i read a whole bunch of reviews on the savage lapuas and after the 10th read or so i landed on the 110fcphs as the winner over the 110ba. many people who have bought the 110ba change out the stock making me wonder if its worth the extra 800 bucks to have that stock. It does have a better muzzle brake, but still.. worth 800?. i dunno.

i also read that the stocks from hs precision are hit or miss. Being that the stock is over 500 bucks to go and buy for another savage action, i would expect them to be higher standards before releasing them for sale.
anyway, when i went to cabelas to purchase one, i waiting in line for an 1.5h on the preopen (got an invitition repeat cabelas customer) i was first at the gun bench, i asked about the 110fcp he said they had two in stock. I got him to bring both guns out.

we opened both boxes, and i inspected the stocks closely for errors. the first gun, had a pretty substainial notch out of the stock right where the bolt handle fits in. It was like a casting error, about the diameter of 3/8" decent hole in plain sight. it also had paint drips and marks that was hitting the barrel. (did not pass the dollar bill floating barrel test) it was a ****** stock to say the least, i was at this point worried...

however after picking up the second gun i noticed this one was perfect. no flaws at all to be seen, we even took the action off and looked inside. It was mint.
and i immediately dropped 1600 bucks and bought it.

Im glad i did the research, and i am VERY happy with this rifle.
there is a great article from "Tactical Operator" which compares the 110fcphs to a 7k steyr. They both score 25 points, dead even. And that really said something to me.

2014 savage 110 fcp hs
factory hs precision stock
custom front picatinny rail
magpul foregrip
vangaurd equalizer pro 2 bipod
front swivel mount picatinny rail
millet 6-25x56mm LRS ATAC
millet 35mm high rings
custom mesh camo paint

in a few days im doing a custom molded ackrylic cheek rest i will post pics and info on how i will do it.
 

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I'm not convinced the brake on the BA is really that much better than the one on the FCP... if it does actually reduce recoil to a greater extent, I'd attribute that to the massive *weight* of the dang thing than any great gains elsewhere. The BA brake weighs about a pound, straight up, all by itself. The FCP brake weighs ~4 oz.

I'd take the savings and go buy an aftermarket brake if you're not happy with the factor FCP brake. I'd suggest talking to the fine folks @ Benchmark Barrels about one of their 'Miller' design brakes - kind of a next-generation version of the Muscle brake discussed elsewhere on this forum, with a few tweaks.
 
You all are going to keep posting info like this and, well I'm a weak man and will end up buying one.
 
Once you see a 300 grain Berger hit at 1500 yards or so you won't go back to a smaller caliber. The Reloader 33 really makes the Lapua case come alive. Matt
 
hey guys,

update with some ballistic info. and show the new cheek rest.

using imr 7828 at 80 grains with Berger 300 OTMs. (OAL 3.86)
federal match mag primers, nosler brass

got my gun to group 5 shots in 1.25" and all 10 shots in 4" at 600m
shooting prone off a bipod no rear bag.

this was in 10kmph avg. wind with 15-20km gust NW.
98% humidity day foggy and relatively cold at about 8 degrees Celsius.
off an on rain, and a 100m elevation drop to my target.

This was the first time shooting this powder weight, i worked my way up from 78.
and i think ive found a sweet spot.

a different day i went to the same spot and was shooting Stellier & Bellot match 250grain factory ammo, which cant fairly be compared to hand loaded ammo, but it shot far worse getting... 10 shots in 8.5" and 3 shots in 1"

now i know 600m aint much for this gun, and really im just begining to scratch the surface of this rifles capability, but i am seriously happy with this gun.
+1 savage...

i will be experimenting with IMR4350 for the berger300otm shortly. i will post info on that when i can.



here is the custom ackrylic cheek rest i made. the massive 56mm objective lens on the millet optic (which has been doing really well) needs pretty tall rings, and being 35mm tube rings are hard to come by.
i bought a $7 piece of ackrylic from my local plastics store, heated it up with a propane torch and molded it over a piece of wood i had cut to the correct angles.
i clamped it in place and let it set for 20 mins. After that it was dry and hard. fit the gun like a glove, i almost didnt even need to tie it on.
i am a south paw, so this addition really made the gun a lefty and much more comfortable. fit with the bolt no problem, it was really easy to do.

after it was mounted and formed, i glued on a cut piece of leather for a bit of smoothness and cushion.
 

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Hey everyone I'm the Newbe here but this all great info. I just picked up my (2014 model) savage 110 .338 HS. This week. Like others mine was filthy down the tube but a 30 min scrub job solved that and I found (after a call to savage because I found no literature) that mine does have a 20 moa rail, also gave them a speech about not even including a sticker or a cheep case with purchase as makers used to do ( I think I'm getting a free tshirt in the mail after that as they asked for my address, or a hitman is coming to break my knee caps) I digress..... mine seems to be in order. No marks or poor fitting issues. I'm planning on ordering a vortex viper pst 6-24x50 this week along with a harris bipod and possibly a accushot rear monopod. With the price of ammo it appears I will also being getting into reloading. Was looking at the lee aniversery set up...thoughts? ...also does it have a long enough stroke to load the .338?... last year I shot an antalope at 800 yds with my very modified. Remington 700 .308 I can't wait to see what this big *** .338 has in store lol. I'm open to any and all reloading suggestions but try to dumb it down a bit ad it's all fresh for me thanks guys.
 
Nice review.

Firstly, I have notice the quality control may be a bit low / lacking. But the gun fires well. My friend has the same model as you, and do I. With good reloading, your accuracy will be sub moa.

Secondly, I've used several bullets. Hornday 285's, Barnes LRX 265's, and Accu bond. Used IMR 7285 and Rotumba ubiquitously.

My First eye openers was with the accubond bullets. There was couple 3 touching groupings.
I have since switched reloading to primarily Barnes LRX with Rotumbo. I have the 265 LRX with a 78.25 gr of Rotumbo. This is on the lighter side, but it has very managable recoil and good accuracy. I just took it out today to do some shooting (600 - 800 m). Took me 9 rounds to get it on the 600 m target. (there was a slight wind, and i am no master). Nailed that milk jug. Moved to 700 m. Took me about 5 - 6 shots before I realized one of two things were happening, my shooting is inadequate (and this is what i am presuming) or my powdered charge was off a couple of pellets (doing my reloading I usually just say, ohhh thats close enough. But its not exact.) Nonetheless, I realized after two shots missed bc of wind, adjusted. 3-5 bullets were just <2 inches from milk jug. Then followed up by 3 hits. Tried 800 m. But had no sandy back blast so couldn't see where my rounds were going.

At the 700 m. The three hits on the jug (it was a sand filled jug so it didn't explode like water jugs. and are reusable. To my surprise.) were within 7 inches. Hence Sub-moa.

Your scope is a great choice for the rifle. Mine, the bushnel 5 by 15x tactical is lacking power. But, to increase my down range turrents. I dropped my rifle on the scope (by accident, :( but still holds true! thank god) which bent the scope and so, I had to chimmey the front ring up with tap. I no have the max clicks for distance.

I have photos of peel targets that illustrate golf ball sized groupings at 400 m. Again, with the LRX, very nice shotting.
 
Hey everyone I'm the Newbe here but this all great info. I just picked up my (2014 model) savage 110 .338 HS. This week. Like others mine was filthy down the tube but a 30 min scrub job solved that and I found (after a call to savage because I found no literature) that mine does have a 20 moa rail, also gave them a speech about not even including a sticker or a cheep case with purchase as makers used to do ( I think I'm getting a free tshirt in the mail after that as they asked for my address, or a hitman is coming to break my knee caps) I digress..... mine seems to be in order. No marks or poor fitting issues. I'm planning on ordering a vortex viper pst 6-24x50 this week along with a harris bipod and possibly a accushot rear monopod. With the price of ammo it appears I will also being getting into reloading. Was looking at the lee aniversery set up...thoughts? ...also does it have a long enough stroke to load the .338?... last year I shot an antalope at 800 yds with my very modified. Remington 700 .308 I can't wait to see what this big *** .338 has in store lol. I'm open to any and all reloading suggestions but try to dumb it down a bit ad it's all fresh for me thanks guys.
( I think I'm getting a free tshirt in the mail after that as they asked for my address, or a hitman is coming to break my knee caps) I digress...

LMAO!
 
I am also a Newbe here, despite my 67 years. Graduated up to (what for me is a "big bore") 6.5 CM Savage 110 Tactical Bolt with a 20 MOA rail on top which confused the hell out of me tonight at the range just trying to hit paper. Finally acknowledged I'm still a math ****** and came home. The great journaling from EXTREME 31 at the start of this thread actually solved my conundrum. Now, thanks to his math abilities, I know I have an additional 5.5 mils available to my scope due to the cant of the 20 MOA base. Now, if I can just find my way out of that wet paper bag . . . .
 
Well I just ordered a solid bottom 20 moa cant rail from Murphy Precision with the #8 holes. He stated that it was designed for the 110BA so I'm excited about that!

Thanks for the info Youngbuck. I wasn't sure what kind of velocity I could expect with the 300's but with your info & the new rail on the way I feel a bit better knowing that I will have plenty of elevation to reach my goals. Now does anybody know of a good cheek rest????? I know the 300's aren't a true pointed tip type VLD's but they are still more pointed than a standard smk so I'm thinking I should be able to seat the bullet out a bit further than the 250's I started with & I hope to be able to hit the lands at magazine length but I doubt it if your not able to, surely there can't be that much difference between two rifles that were most like made side by side.........

And what exactly is skim bedding? I haven't heard of that yet.....

I have a couple pounds of the H1000 myself so I really appreciate the load info. When I get home early next month I'm going to immediately load some 300's with that & the left over RL25 I have & i'll make sure to let you know how it turns out. For almost 3 bucks a piece for brass I most likely won't push them too hard. It's one thing to throw away a piece that cost 75 cents due to high pressure but not 3 bucks!

You are right about the savage barrel needing time to break in. My 6.5 x 284 really started to shine around the 200 mark which I just passed so now I'm wondering if I don't need to fine tune that load a little bit? How much do they really change? I'm starting to see this in other rifles i own as well so I almost think a guy just needs to just shoot 200 rounds thru every new tube & then work on load development........I'm just to new at all of this to really know & understand it, so I appreciate the help! Please keep me posted on your progress as well.

My 6.5 x 284 performed well on my muley this year. I didn't get my 338 till a week before the season opened so I didn't get to take it along with me but I'm kinda leery of shooting a deer with such a monster caliber since I enjoy the meat far too much! But of course I am dying to find out!
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