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Muzzle brake or not?

One of the best writeups I've ever seen has been over at Precision Rifle Blog. He's done very detailed work on his reviews, so please put out a big thanks to Cal Zant who is the shooter/author behind PrecisionRifleBlog.com, and these excellent writeups!

Here's his various reviews on each aspect, you'll need to read through each of the reviews. The one I'd pay most attention too is "Ability to stay on Target". Bullet impact is major vs. just reduction of recoil, which BTW is also usually the loudest:

http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/06/24/muzzle-brakes-field-test/

http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/07/01/muzzle-brakes-recoil-primer-test-equipment-rifles/

http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/07/07/muzzle-brakes-recoil-results-for-6mm-6-5mm/

http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/07/13/308-muzzle-brake/

http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/07/17/muzzle-brake-recoil-reduction/

http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/07/25/muzzle-brakes-ability-to-stay-on-target/

http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/08/07/muzzle-brakes-sound-test/

http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/08/12/muzzle-brake-blast-ground-signature/

http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/08/21/muzzle-brake-summary-of-field-test-results/
 
I know that JP brake did well all around in the PRB test, but I can tell you that you don't want to be laying next to it on the firing line when it's torched off. Feels like you are repeatedly getting bitch slapped. The way it's built I think you'd have issues getting it in and out of any muzzle down pack too.
 
Muzzle brakes are extremely dangerous to be beside. A friend laid down on the tailgate of his pickup and fired his 7STW which had a home made brake with three 1/4" holes out each side and three 1/4" holes out the top. The entire tail light assembly was blown out of the tail light location. I don't mean just the red lens. I mean the whole light assembly was destroyed to smithereens.
 
Hopefully you readers can see the tiny triangle cut in the front port. The cut is on the left side because the rifle was going to the left about three feet at 100 yards. Whether it was the firearm or the shooter was irrelevant to me. I reached in with a triangle file and made a small cut. That was not enough so I did it again. After that I could see impacts at 100 yards on 20X!

Forgive the ugliness of the brake. It is one I made. I don't think anyone would pay to have something so ugly on their rifle. I have lots more time than money. Also the more astute can see I have more time than talent.
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I know that JP brake did well all around in the PRB test, but I can tell you that you don't want to be laying next to it on the firing line when it's torched off. Feels like you are repeatedly getting bitch slapped. The way it's built I think you'd have issues getting it in and out of any muzzle down pack too.
Or behind it without double ear protection. Those things are very effective but brutal with the muzzle blast.
 
Or behind it without double ear protection. Those things are very effective but brutal with the muzzle blast.

It was at a PRS instructional deal, guys prone beside each other. Had double ear protection on so that wasn't bad, but I swear my face was wind burnt from that thing after 2 days. Want to get rid of your flinch from other shooters? Lay next to one of those for 300 rounds. Wow.
 
Trying to decide to run a brake or not. Sometimes you don't have time to put in hearing protection, and a muzzle braked rifle could seriously damage your hearing. I'm building a 7-300wm running berger 195's. This should be a stout cartridge. Finished weight of rifle around 11lb mark. Primary use hunting, but will also bang steel and break rocks from time to time.
I have a large collection of Rifles and all but two are braked on a .260 and the other a .220 Swift.

There are a lot of different types and designs of brakes on the market and I've tried more than a dozen of them over the years.

Those that reduce felt recoil the best also tend to be the hardest on the shooter because they direct the gases to the rear rather than just straight out to the sides or slightly forward.

Those that have a slight forward angle are the easiest on the shooter's ears.

Radial brakes are good but if shooting from the prone can blind you kicking up dust/sand/snow etc.

Years ago I was down on the edge of a wheatfield shooting into the wind and totally lost sight of the target due to the dust signature and filled my eyes with sand and dust and could not then get back on the scope for more than a minute. Fortunately he was laying stone dead where I shot and I was able to relocate him fairly easily. If he'd been wounded and run more than a couple of hundred yards I'd have most certainly lost him.

That incident got me started rethinking shooting with a brake at all and looking at different designs.

I settled on the North West Precision MB as it was the closest to one that came on a custom I have and have their slotted version.

Great muzzle flip control, very good recoil reduction even on my 7mm STW's, .300 Rums, and .375 Ruger.

On top of that it's not at all hard on the shooter. I'd rather shoot with them on the big rifles than my light calibers without.

https://www.macsgunworks.com/muzzle-brakes
 
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It was at a PRS instructional deal, guys prone beside each other. Had double ear protection on so that wasn't bad, but I swear my face was wind burnt from that thing after 2 days. Want to get rid of your flinch from other shooters? Lay next to one of those for 300 rounds. Wow.
Or develop one. :)
 
As a big game rifle, a 7-300WM will only be shot once or twice and the recoil is perfectly manageable for that volume. Personally, I'd put a brake on it but when I went hunting I'd pull it off and check the zero. The only hunting rifle I have which wears a brake for big game is a 338 Edge and that's because I wouldn't shoot without it.
 
I read up on MB on the in the PRB...they have tons of great LR reading.

I went with a spiral hole break made by Hawk Hill...just happened the barrel contour and the break were the same diameter. He even drop shipped it to Douglas Barrels so the could puts it on.

Main reason on 6.5-06 was it's built for the little women. She had never shot any kind of weapon before so I didn't want her to fear the recoil. I really like it a lot!

Ended up not needing one on my 300wm...thing is too heavy at just a hair under 16lbs.

264wm will get one...but I want one that leaves you on target still. The HH brake on the 6.5-06 hops to the left and you loose your sight picture.

I can't recall a single person who said they hated their break after they had one!
 
The HH brake on the 6.5-06 hops to the left and you loose your sight picture.

The rifle this brake is on used to do the same thing. I filed the little "V" notch in the port on the left side nearest the exit end and it helped. I filed a tiny bit more. I can now see the impact at 100 yards now when the scope is set on 20X. Maybe you could do the same thing with yours.

20170507_082209 (2).jpg
 
Thanks Rich,

This is something I was hoping to learn...if a break was tunable for the direction they make the rifle move.

I hope the spiral holes is not the cause. My next one will be straight ....
 
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