Melonite barrel treatment

Great reply Shortgrass.

What most do not understand about this type of process since most and then some are not machinists.
This process has been used for decades so our nice edges stay on our cutting tools longer.

Have you seen the different colors on drill bits to end mills? There are other processes out there that add to the material one is having heat treated.

Rich

Have you increased your powder charge? I have done it to several barrels and with 1-3 grain powder I jumped noticably in velocity.One did not enjoy the three grains so had to drop to one grain increase to retain my bughole accuracy.

I did forget to put the top ports in the brake of my 458 Lott a couple years ago prior to Nitriding. I had six high speed drill bits and No carbide .200 drill bits.
1. It was a bugger putting a dimple in the material to chase with a drill bit.
2. Took me 3 bits to drill 6 .200 holes and it took 2 bits to drill the first 3 holes!

Remember that it is hard (outside) then soft then hard on the inside!

Neal

I haven't played around much with loads yet but it seemed like I gained about 25'+ with the same load. I thought I might get a reduction (less pressure) but it didn't seem to be the case. I assumed that I could get more velocity but would have to load heavier to get it...........Rich
 
A surface hardening process,,,, helps resist the effects of friction and the high heat of the burning propellant. Besides cutting tools, I've known the process to be used on "highly loaded" journal bearings. Glock slides are melonite treated... I've kept an eye on my XC with a bore scope,,, I see very little evidence of wear, if any, in the throat or the rifling. The next one I have treated I'll put under the hardness tester for a "before and after" check. The benifits are there, the cost is low. The barrel makers can't keep up with demand, the only ones it might hurt is those of us that install custom barrels!
 
I've had 2 pistol barrels, 5 rifle barrels and one surgeon 1086r action treated and have had nothing but positive results.

I typically break the barrel in to where there is minimal or no copper fowling. To get to that point it usually takes less than 30 rounds, then it's off to be treated.

Since I sent a large batch, I was given a very good price that a mounted to around 2.5% of the parts value. So if the life of the barrels is increased by more than the modest 2.5% I will consider it a good investment given the other positive attributes that melonite treatment provides.
 
Hammertyme:

Just wondering, since you have Melonited barrels that were 'raw/fresh' and also barrels that have been broke in, what do you recommend? Did the raw/fresh barrels with no round count before Melonite produce good groups for you?

I'm throwing a new .308 Krieger barrel on and debating wether or not to do a barrel break in or not.

Thanx
 
Hammertyme:

Just wondering, since you have Melonited barrels that were 'raw/fresh' and also barrels that have been broke in, what do you recommend? Did the raw/fresh barrels with no round count before Melonite produce good groups for you?

I'm throwing a new .308 Krieger barrel on and debating wether or not to do a barrel break in or not.

Thanx

I'm not speaking for Hammertyme here but the folks who do the treatment say the barrel "must" be broken in! You have to smooth out the bore and get rid of any rough edges or you could end up worse than before treatment......Rich
 
I'm not speaking for Hammertyme here but the folks who do the treatment say the barrel "must" be broken in! You have to smooth out the bore and get rid of any rough edges or you could end up worse than before treatment......Rich

If you go through Benchmark for a MMI treatment, Benchmark says they like virgin barrels except for maybe a function test shot. They have their own process for "breaking it in". My smith talked me into going with H&M because he like the finished product better. They do a slightly cooler dip and they will do cast actions as well. MMI is picky about which actions they will do.
 
this whole thread is full of good input. lets keep it going.

H&M looks like a real good company that knows what they're doing. No offense to MMI Trutec because I have heard many great things about them, but I can't seem to get ahold of them or get a email reply.
 
this whole thread is full of good input. lets keep it going.

H&M looks like a real good company that knows what they're doing. No offense to MMI Trutec because I have heard many great things about them, but I can't seem to get ahold of them or get a email reply.

If you want info on the MMI process, call Benchmark Barrels. You must deal through them or one other "sub-contractor" that MMI deals with regarding treating barrels.

You can call and deal directly with H&M, however, you will probably want to work through your gunsmith in the process because anything to be treated such as barrel, action and trigger, must be disassembled prior to sending it in.
 
All dippers and barrel makers are not equal.

All my Benchmarks were dipped prior to a shot being fired through the barrel by me. They are the smoothest bored barrel I have ever shot.

I have seen some barrels take a lot to break in so in my opinion breaking in those barrel would be sound advice I guess.

I had two factory barrels done before they were shot. One was lapped by Benchmark prior to shooting and one without lap. They both shot .5 or less when I got them with the handlapped 300 RUM bugholing.

Neal
 
If you go through Benchmark for a MMI treatment, Benchmark says they like virgin barrels except for maybe a function test shot. They have their own process for "breaking it in". My smith talked me into going with H&M because he like the finished product better. They do a slightly cooler dip and they will do cast actions as well. MMI is picky about which actions they will do.

Thanks Mark, I did not know that......Rich
 
All dippers and barrel makers are not equal.

All my Benchmarks were dipped prior to a shot being fired through the barrel by me. They are the smoothest bored barrel I have ever shot.

I have seen some barrels take a lot to break in so in my opinion breaking in those barrel would be sound advice I guess.

I had two factory barrels done before they were shot. One was lapped by Benchmark prior to shooting and one without lap. They both shot .5 or less when I got them with the handlapped 300 RUM bugholing.

Neal

Well, I sure like that idea better if it works. Taking the barrel off and on is not my idea of a good time if it isn't necessary.......thanks/Rich
 
All dippers and barrel makers are not equal.

All my Benchmarks were dipped prior to a shot being fired through the barrel by me. They are the smoothest bored barrel I have ever shot.

I have seen some barrels take a lot to break in so in my opinion breaking in those barrel would be sound advice I guess.

I had two factory barrels done before they were shot. One was lapped by Benchmark prior to shooting and one without lap. They both shot .5 or less when I got them with the handlapped 300 RUM bugholing.

Neal

Neal, On the factory barrels, was there a difference in fouling and cleaning between the one lapped and the one not lapped?
 
There is a big difference between a factory Non-lapped barrel before and after nitride regarding copper.

Savage barrels nearly all shoot quite well. They also foul. Once nitrided there isn't fouling.

Another example: For the past two years I have been working with Benchmark 3 groove 224 barrels at 4800-5200 fps and until I Nitrided all but lathe turned bullets were coming apart. Nitrided stopped most bullets from coming apart.

When I went to a 16 twist barrel plus Nitride I have been able to shoot all bullets and No bullets are coming apart.

I have yet to wear out any Nitrided barrels and I figure the 6.5WSM and the 300RUM are well past 1000 rounds and accuracy is intact. Throat shows some wear but I haven't changed bullet seating at all. I see no need to change the seating depth for a really long time.

Neal
 
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