Without knowing what AR 10 it is, its impossible to even comment. Some AR 10's come with tomato stakes that will most likely never "break in". One even wears a Rock Barrel which can be a different animal. You might be surprised to see what some barrel maker say. I was told by one that is commonly talked about on this site as one of the best and he said "just shoot it, it's already broken in if I lapped it correctly". By the way he is also a metallurgist. Do what makes you happy.
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Match Grade Barrell break in procedures
- Thread starter jonboy2014
- Start date
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jca57jd
Well-Known Member
I just finished breaking in a 26" Krieger on my custom dpms 243 (it is built on a dpms lr308 ar10 platform). I shot once and cleaned for the first 10 rounds, then I shot 3 rounds and cleaned followed by 5 rounds and cleaned. It's amazing how long it takes to clean it each time following a single shot although it dose get shorter the farther you get. My 3 and 5 round string cleanings went twice as fast as the first round cleaning. I never thought it was going to end but after 12 + hours I got it done. I followed kriegers break in instructions using oneilops break in procedure video and it worked fantastic (links below). I had several avid comp shooters tell me that what I was doing wasn't called for but I wanted to be safe instead of sorry with my new barrel! I used the exact same solvents as James (oneilops) recommended. Just don't leave the sweets 7.62 in the barrel for longer than 10 minutes to be on the safe side. Good luck!
Break-In & Cleaning
[ame]http://youtu.be/Whuz3n5lvyQ[/ame]
Break-In & Cleaning
[ame]http://youtu.be/Whuz3n5lvyQ[/ame]
lightbulbDitto!lightbulb
There are lots of good people here that are always willing and able to help ... for the most part you can tell by the way they respond. They always take the time to share their experiences.
One thing I learned early on from this site is that "there's always somebody that are far more knowledgeable and have more experience than I am".
I know you're new but if you follow Jerry's (JE Custom) posts, he's one of those many people here. Hang in there and be patient and you'll get the right information you need.
BTW, welcome to LRH and enjoy. Cheers!
Ed
This subject is funny because two guys can take identical barrels and the first guy shoots and cleans for maybe 5 rounds and then just enjoys his sub half MOA rifle. The other guy does a 12 hour process and then enjoys his sub half moa rifle. So they both swear by their own process!
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
One more comment and the choice is up to the individual whether to break in or not.
In my opinion, The barrel is the heart of the accuracy potential so "Taking care of it" is paramount.
When braking in (Or not) after each shot all types of fouling is laid down in the barrel. Some is copper (Not to bad but it will prevent the barrel from breaking in uniformly).
The next Is Carbon. (Very bad and abrasive) and if it is left in the barrel and fired, the bullet will pick some of it up and run it down the barrel. The rougher the barrel finish, the more carbon it will hold and the more the bullet will pick up. One of the major reasons for lapping a barrel is to minimize the fouling from shot to shot. A good break in also does the same thing. when breaking in a CUSTOM HAND LAPPED BARREL it gets better and better as brake in continues and fouls less and less.
Many years ago I did not realize how much carbon is left in the barrel after one shot so I did a simple test. I cleaned until the barrel was pristine and fired one shot. Then I slowly pushed a dry patch down the bore and when the patch exited the muzzle I was surprised at the amount of residue from just one shot. (The next bullet pushes it's way through all of this and does damage
to the bore of the barrel). So the less a barrel fouls, the less carbon is pushed through the barrel
while firing. Try this with your rifle and you will see how much is pushed through your expensive barrel after only one shot. (Looking down the barrel with a bore light it may look great, but the dry patch will tell you the real story. Also Some powders are worse than others.
I know it sounds Anal, but when I am hunting and have the time, I pull a Bore snake through the bore just to sweep the powder fouling from the bore so the next shot is at least free of the lose stuff.
In my experience, Barrel life and accuracy are extended if a barrel is well maintained after break in
so brake in (Yes it is time consuming)is time well spent in my opinion.
So is break in necessary ? Everyone decides for them selves. After spending lots of time and money to own a rifle that will out shoot me I will do everything I can to make it last and hold it's accuracy as long as possible.
J E CUSTOM
In my opinion, The barrel is the heart of the accuracy potential so "Taking care of it" is paramount.
When braking in (Or not) after each shot all types of fouling is laid down in the barrel. Some is copper (Not to bad but it will prevent the barrel from breaking in uniformly).
The next Is Carbon. (Very bad and abrasive) and if it is left in the barrel and fired, the bullet will pick some of it up and run it down the barrel. The rougher the barrel finish, the more carbon it will hold and the more the bullet will pick up. One of the major reasons for lapping a barrel is to minimize the fouling from shot to shot. A good break in also does the same thing. when breaking in a CUSTOM HAND LAPPED BARREL it gets better and better as brake in continues and fouls less and less.
Many years ago I did not realize how much carbon is left in the barrel after one shot so I did a simple test. I cleaned until the barrel was pristine and fired one shot. Then I slowly pushed a dry patch down the bore and when the patch exited the muzzle I was surprised at the amount of residue from just one shot. (The next bullet pushes it's way through all of this and does damage
to the bore of the barrel). So the less a barrel fouls, the less carbon is pushed through the barrel
while firing. Try this with your rifle and you will see how much is pushed through your expensive barrel after only one shot. (Looking down the barrel with a bore light it may look great, but the dry patch will tell you the real story. Also Some powders are worse than others.
I know it sounds Anal, but when I am hunting and have the time, I pull a Bore snake through the bore just to sweep the powder fouling from the bore so the next shot is at least free of the lose stuff.
In my experience, Barrel life and accuracy are extended if a barrel is well maintained after break in
so brake in (Yes it is time consuming)is time well spent in my opinion.
So is break in necessary ? Everyone decides for them selves. After spending lots of time and money to own a rifle that will out shoot me I will do everything I can to make it last and hold it's accuracy as long as possible.
J E CUSTOM
