Magnetospeed sporter?

[Delta5]

Looking to sell the sporter?

Sorry brother I'll probably just hand it down to one of my sons. And let them send it in.

 

[Jud96]

I used my Sporter on a lightweight 280 Dakota, and I couldn't get the strap tight enough to keep it from moving with every shot from recoil. I'm thinking that I may just duct-tape it to the barrel next time I take it to the range. Has anybody else found a fix for this thing sliding around when the rifle recoils ?

I've never had it not get tight unless it's not tightened down right. I've used mine on a Browning A-Bolt in .223 WSSM with a pencil barrel and never had a problem with it. Just back the nut all the way off until it's only on by a couple threads, then line your muzzle up with the line on the Magnetospeed, hold it there and push it up tight to the barrel, tighten the strap as much as you can while holding the spacer and chronograph tight against the barrel, then tighten the nut up.

 

[Tulsa Reiner]

Deputy819:
No, just position the sensor in front of the opening in the brake, so the brake itself is over the dip in the bayonet. The exiting gases haven't burned or changed the appearance of the bayonet or sensor on my MS after greater than 500 rounds.

 

[Tulsa Reiner]

Joefrazell, post: 1877996
If your stock has two studs as some do you just buy one that's designed for that stock. If you only have one stud then you will have to drill. Check out long range only. He sells a pic rail kit and has an instructional video you can watch. It's very informative.
One caveat: check your free float above the pic rail after mounting. After installing a pic rail for my Atlas bipod, I discovered that the recessed nuts under the barrel were in contact with my barrel and messing with my groups. I solved this by using a grinding bit on dremel tool to lower the top surface of the nuts.

 

[Pro2A]

I reload for hunting to medium ranges, not super long range and not for competition. I have always used a prochrono chronograph that usually functions decent enough. That being said, it can be a pain to setup, especially with others at the range and sometimes I find the readings to likely be inconsistent due to sunlight conditions, so I have been eyeballing the magnetospeed sporter. (the speed V3 and the labradar are just too expensive for me). From what I read, it's downfall is the fact it is on the barrel so using it while doing accuracy testing is not exactly wise since it can mess with the barrels harmonics. I don't think this will be too much of a problem for me. My intentions will to be using it for checking for pressure signs while testing for max charges. Then using it to check speed and spreds after I find some accuracy nodes. What are your thoughts? What am I losing not going with a magnetospeed V3? Will it function ok with breaks...including radial breaks? Thanks!

Suggest going for the Labradar. Use the JKL Precision inertia trigger on picatinny mount to trigger with aggressive muzzle brakes. Works great. Buy once; cry once; happy forever. Absolutely abhorred the set up/lighting/screen impact issues with any screen chrono. The Magnetospeed always seemed to be a MacGyver Gone Wild affair to jury rig for a specific application, especially my Barrett M107A1s and MRADs, etc., and then there is the barrel attachment/accuracy issue. Try partnering with several friends to spread the cost and share Labradar use. At only five friends, you get the best equipment solution at the lowest cost. It's not something you will use daily so sharing should be feasible. Also, do you belong to a shooting club? My gun club has a Labradar and a V3 available for member checkout. But, I prefer using my own equipment, so I bought a Labradar myself. Very pleased.

 

[Brandon Winterholler]

I have been running a sporter for roughly 6 months now and have had zero issues with it for its intended purpose. Like most above, it is not ideal if you are shooting for groups, but will definitely collect the data you need to evaluate your loads.

 

[Tommo64]

I have the Sporter. Works great for me. None of my rifles have brakes fitted, so can't comment from personal experience on that. I use mine to test for velocities and to find promising loads with low SD and ES. Then remove for accuracy tests and zeroing. My friend has the V3 but I am not convinced it is worth the extra $$ personally.

 

[Deputy819]

Deputy819:
No, just position the sensor in front of the opening in the brake, so the brake itself is over the dip in the bayonet.

That worked! I had to use the thicker spacer (brake was actually touching the bayonet with the small spacer) and adjust the sensitivity to "Hi 1" and it gave me flawless readings with this 5-port "Beast" brake. Thank you, Sir!