I Magnaported my 20" barrel Ithaca Model 37 12 gauge slug gun and it made a difference in muzzle jump, but it still kicked like he double hockey sticks!
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Magnaported 12G
- Thread starter bamban
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I've used a Bridgeport and indexing head for tilting each side. A 5/32" end mill best of my memory - goes thru barrel quite easily with no coolant. I always used a "Kolar" pattern with larger, single row each side as it does not fill up with plastic wad as easy. Start far enough back from the muzzle end in case you want to add screw chokes some day.
As for recoil reduction - it all depends on your cheek weld. Tight cheek weld - you'll notice a marked difference. Helps far more with recoil to face than shoulder. Kick-Eze or Limbsaver pad helps most to shoulder.
Various photos of porting: https://www.google.com/search?q=pic...rp#imgdii=GZ_gwoCNXJAkQM&imgrc=y9DgYhlyHyYs5M
I have a mossberg 835 ulti Mag that came ported. I mainly run 3.5" 00 buck, 3.5" Turkey loads, and a 3.5" loads for Sandhills. It kicks pretty bad I can't really tell a difference in recoil when shooting 3.5" out of other guns. Although the magna porting may be more effective.
Thank you for the response.
I have a Bridgeport and a Super Spacer. I believe I even have that size carbide end mill. What do you think about holes as you mentioned, but will do them at TDC, 3, and 9 o'clock? I still have an old brake cylinder hone I can use to clean up any burrs in the bore.
Had the stock shortened to 12-1/2 LOP with the 1-1/8 kick eeze pad. Then the stock spring tube nut that locks the buttstock stuck too far out past the wood.
I modified the system: 1st I cut off the nut and then ground off the threaded end of the tube so when I screw it, the head is below the wood. Then machined an aluminum piece for a washer if you may.
Love the "Yutes" (My cousin Vinny) stock
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Good job on the stock - I don't have the patience for stock work done right. As for the holes orientation, I've always done like 2 & 10 for barrels with a vent rib. Always thought about doing one thru the rib - top only, but never did. If it is a plain barrel - I think I would try top only first as I think it would work well and you can always add more holes if needed. Good luck with the project!
As for burrs - a new end mill and being centered on the barrel will pretty much be good. A few shells thru and it will be fine. I took a drill bit (maybe 1/4") to hand deburr/chamfer the outside and eliminate sharp edges.
As for burrs - a new end mill and being centered on the barrel will pretty much be good. A few shells thru and it will be fine. I took a drill bit (maybe 1/4") to hand deburr/chamfer the outside and eliminate sharp edges.
Thank you.
I can afford to play with this barrel. It started as a full choke $5 garage sale find, had it cut to 18-1/2 (before I had my machines) If I screw it up, I will use the original barrel and start all over again.
I came back about 2.750" from the muzzle end and put roughly 8-10 holes on about .3125" centers. It's been a while, but that should be close.
If just recoil try what a lot of trap guys use mercury reducers in stock.
MERCURY RECOIL SUPPRESSORS, RECOIL REDUCTION, REDUCE RECOIL IN SHOTGUNS AND RIFLES
MERCURY RECOIL SUPPRESSORS, RECOIL REDUCTION, REDUCE RECOIL IN SHOTGUNS AND RIFLES
www.mercuryrecoil.com
They do work well. Always had one in competition shotguns.
What a beautiful wood.
BHP9
Well-Known Member
A friend had his 870 smoothbore slug barrel Magna Ported when they were still in Canada.
Great job done, it reduced the recoil and jump considerably but man was it loud. This was shooting slugs
Great job done, it reduced the recoil and jump considerably but man was it loud. This was shooting slugs
I have had a Browning Citori for 30 years. I had the barrels Magnaported. I also had the forcing cones lengthened. The porting helps more with the barrel rise. The forcing cones lengthened helps with the recoil. It also helps with the patterning. The porting definitely makes it considerably louder.
