Looking to go 7 STW

jkupp

I am a previous 7stw skeptic. Looking at book data on pills up to 160 grains I didn't see the trade off between velocity and powder charge to be high enough. I actually bought a rifle expressly to pull off the barrel and go to a 7mmLRM. I was already a fan of 168 and 180 vld bullets, shooting the lighter in my two 7RM's. My RM's shot the vld's well, but I wanted more velocity, as I was only getting 2875 out of my 24" barrel, partly because that gun really liked RL19, instead of the slower powders. I decided to shoot a few through the near new barrel on my new STW before pulling it, and to my surprise the 10 twist 26" barrel shot the 168's into .5moa groups(ave) at 200-300yds so far at a consistent 3125fps. I have gotten use to the recoil of my 7RM with a brake, but do not find the recoil of the 7STW to be excessive, even at 8.75lbs, scoped. I push 74.0gr of 7828 behind a F215 primer.

Your biggest concern will be brass. Finding it isn't easy, though Nosler seems to be avail, but it is insanely expensive. I have cobbled together a small mix of Win and Rem brass. Starting my third loading on the Win and surprisingly have not had to trim it yet. I've shot 1000 rounds out of my 7RM's and always have to trim at least every other sizing, so I don't know why these seem to be better.

If you hope to buy factory ammo, I would reconsider the change. While they usually have some STW ammo, it is never consistent in what they have, usually some variation of the Nosler offerings.

My affinity toward 168 and eventually 180 grain VLD's is about the bc, but also about having enough energy to take down a bull elk at farther distances, so I have no interest in a really fast 140. I don't buy more speed vs. less bc, as I just don't see it after say 500 yards. So, while my 10 twist just so happens to shoot 168's very well, I am limited on 180's, so get an 8.5 or 9 twist, though I understand this will ****** your speed a bit.

Lastly, you need to consider bullet seating and your magazine. A main reason I was shocked this new gun would shoot the berger's so well is because I can barely seat over saami spec with my factory mag box. My bullets jump approx. .035", which is contrary to "most" who shoot these bullets. These cases are very long and the magazines are usually the same length as those found on a 7RM, so if you can you might modify your rifle.

I'm sure you know all this already, but I wanted to let you know that I was a skeptic, but am impressed. The books usually show no more than 50-100fps gain, at the cost of 8-10gr of powder. Getting 250fps more on a pill with a bc of .617, means a significant difference at the ranges I hope to get competent at in hunting situations(700+). My load is only about 5.0 grains more than what most would use of 7828 in their RM's, so 50fps per grain seems reasonable, though my extra 2" of barrel does help.
Factory ammo for the STW really isn't a problem any more if you are not opposed to buying online.

No, it's not cheap but if you find a factory round that shoots pretty well, you can order from the same lot in bulk. There are also some custom guys like Connelly Custom Cartridge and Grizzly who use top components and powders and the bullet of your choice. Again, not cheap but doable.

The advantage is that once you make that bulk purchase your brass problems for when you start reloading are solved.
 
Factory ammo for the STW really isn't a problem any more if you are not opposed to buying online.

No, it's not cheap but if you find a factory round that shoots pretty well, you can order from the same lot in bulk. There are also some custom guys like Connelly Custom Cartridge and Grizzly who use top components and powders and the bullet of your choice. Again, not cheap but doable.

The advantage is that once you make that bulk purchase your brass problems for when you start reloading are solved.

Oh, I reload, so no problem there. I looked online and was having trouble finding anything but rem and Norma brass. I usually shoot win brass. Not opposed to Norma, but my wallet is.

Do you guys find win brass anywhere?
 
Oh, I reload, so no problem there. I looked online and was having trouble finding anything but rem and Norma brass. I usually shoot win brass. Not opposed to Norma, but my wallet is.

Do you guys find win brass anywhere?
Yep, Norma is pricey but it's great brass. Never used it in 7 STW but shot literally tons of it in .220 Swift back when finding .220 swift brass or factory ammo was hard as hell.

One "issue" is that it is soft brass so if you don't anneal it, you have to do a lot of neck trimming.

As for finding STW brass I haven't had to look in several years as I have probably a lifetime supply now.

Watch the reloading section here in the classifieds though and you'll occasionally see it.

Also when people do come across a stash of it they usually announce it here so we can all take advantage.
 
Factory ammo for the STW really isn't a problem any more if you are not opposed to buying online.

No, it's not cheap but if you find a factory round that shoots pretty well, you can order from the same lot in bulk. There are also some custom guys like Connelly Custom Cartridge and Grizzly who use top components and powders and the bullet of your choice. Again, not cheap but doable.

The advantage is that once you make that bulk purchase your brass problems for when you start reloading are solved.
Not if they quit making it.....Federal did that to me twice, once with the 7RM ammo I shot, and once with the STW ammo factory loaded with the 160 NAB's.

Now I can load my own with whatever I want, and that's the best decision I ever made.
 
Allan Rovig built my 7mm STW. 180 VLD is going 3189 fps.

Here is a 3 shot group at 681 yards. I love this gun.

 
Not if they quit making it.....Federal did that to me twice, once with the 7RM ammo I shot, and once with the STW ammo factory loaded with the 160 NAB's.

Now I can load my own with whatever I want, and that's the best decision I ever made.
That's not a problem for you if you buy in bulk from the same lot.

Even if they do eventually quit making it you already have all the brass you need and the rest of the components aren't a problem.

I gotta tell you though when Winchester quit making my pet STW load I was heart broken! That lot of Ammo shot 1/2 MOA for me in my Remington.

Fortunately the Nosler is shooting just as well for me in the other two.
 
Okay, so I have decided that I am going to join the brotherhood once I shoot the barrel out on my 7 RM.

All of my guns are factory, and I have never ordered a barrel before. I do not know anything about the tapers, or contours, of the barrels that are offered by aftermarket manufacturers.

What is the best way to figure all of this stuff out? I have a gun smith in mind that I would like to use when the time comes. Do I just simply have a conversation with him and have him help me figure out what I want? I know he has been very helpful in the past.

I know that I want to shoot the heavier bullets, so I will likely go with a 1:8.5 twist rate (anticipating the Berger 195's), but I am thinking that this twist rate will be fine for the 180 VLD's and Hybrids. I will likely go with a 28" barrel length to help burn the slower burning powders that will likely be used as well.

I excited about the idea of the project, but I am also a little apprehensive as it is something new for me (about the barrel, not the caliber, I'm positive about the STW :D).

What are your thoughts and suggestions?
 
I would have a talk with your smith, and ask him all the same questions till you feel comfortable. It's nothing to be nervous about, unless your not comfortable with your smith. Iin which case, I'd find another smith.

There's a select few people I'll let touch my guns, and my smith is one of them, I trust him completely, and he does what I ask for my rifles, and rarely tries to talk me out of an idea, unless he knows it's not a good idea. He's been around a LONG time, so if he says he wouldn't do it and explains why he wouldn't do it, then I know it's not a good idea, or worth the extra money it would cost to do it.

As for barrels.....My smith once told me, "It's not about who built the barrel...It's about who's doing the work..." And I can believe that, because he's built me rifles with trued factory barrels that would shoot 1 hole groups @ 100 yards. So, his theory about the smith's work is more important than the barrel brand, holds true in my experience.

You can go with a Douglas, Shilen, Krieger, Mike Rock (Rock Creek), Obermeyer, Brux, Braughton, Muller, or whoever, but the gun will only be as accurate as the smith builds it to be.
 
I would have a talk with your smith, and ask him all the same questions till you feel comfortable. It's nothing to be nervous about, unless your not comfortable with your smith. Iin which case, I'd find another smith.

There's a select few people I'll let touch my guns, and my smith is one of them, I trust him completely, and he does what I ask for my rifles, and rarely tries to talk me out of an idea, unless he knows it's not a good idea. He's been around a LONG time, so if he says he wouldn't do it and explains why he wouldn't do it, then I know it's not a good idea, or worth the extra money it would cost to do it.

As for barrels.....My smith once told me, "It's not about who built the barrel...It's about who's doing the work..." And I can believe that, because he's built me rifles with trued factory barrels that would shoot 1 hole groups @ 100 yards. So, his theory about the smith's work is more important than the barrel brand, holds true in my experience.

You can go with a Douglas, Shilen, Krieger, Mike Rock (Rock Creek), Obermeyer, Brux, Braughton, Muller, or whoever, but the gun will only be as accurate as the smith builds it to be.
Don't leave Schneider off your list. Douglas is one I'd take off. I've seen way too many people have trouble with their barrels of the last few years but the rest you have listed there are top notch. Pick any one of them and then it's just a matter of having the right guy do the work.
 
I've never had problems with Douglas barrels in the past...They're about the only manufacturer that will actually warranty their barrels for life from mfg defects. If you buy their Premium Air-Gauged blanks you shouldn't have a problem. They're hand selected and air-gauged to .0001" in straightness. I have no problems using a Douglas Air-Guaged blank, personally. My smith is old school and swears by them. He's worked and installed every brand of barrel known to man, and he still swears by the old Douglas 5-groove barrels. I'm sure there's bound to be a few lemons leaking out there somewhere. With everything man-made, there's bound to be some lemons out lurking out there.

But, if I get a few good checks between now and the time I order my blank for my .280 AI, I'll probably go with a stainless fluted Rock Creek 5R, just because I've never owned one, and heard so much about them.

I also forgot McGowan on that list, too.
 
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