Loc-tite on custom muzzle brake

[gunmunkey]

There's purple Loctite available. It's made for parts you want to remove in the future. Basically stops things from loosening without crazy gluing them together.

 

[DSheetz]

If I recall correctly the purple and pink are made as what Loctite called gasket eliminators they make several good products a green that is used to take up gaps when fitting shafts and bearings a blue medium strength thread locker and a red high strength thread locker . The blue can be softened by heat the green is often used when fitting an AR barrel into the upper receiver so it won't move around and mess with accuracy as well as under scope mounts ect . You can find good info on Loctite products and their intended use on their web page I used them for over 40 years in industry as a mill wright they have a wide range of usage .

 

[gunmunkey]

I r millwright too. Purple is low strength, made for small fasteners or anything you want to remove with little fuss. I've seen guys cause themselves a lot of troubles by using the wrong stuff. I actually just picked up my brother's shotgun and have to try to figure out how to cut off the retaining nut inside the butt because he used red.

 

[ntsqd]

I find that what people recall about the different Lock-tite products can disagree with what Lock-tite says about their products. Referring to a product by its color can be misleading because there are many products of the same color. For instance, in green there is both a low strength capillary action thread locker and a high strength bearing retaining compound. Clearly using the bearing retaining compound on a 4-40 screw would be a bad thing. When in doubt I refer to their web page.

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us...e433f99d33ce1953dcf6b425f4c49891bdc019.page=1

 

[DSheetz]

ntsqd that sir is very sound advice and why I made reference to their web page memories do lapse with time mine is no exception plus I sure don't know all that I can about this subject still lots I want to learn .

 

[gunmunkey]

Amen

 

[Laelkhunter]

Agree with jimbires, use a anti-seize compound and hand tighten, then use a brass drift pin through the holes and "bump" it. Should stay snug.

 

[gunmunkey]

I'm not sure I agree with using anti-sieze. It's a compound designed to ensure that metal parts don't get stuck when they're mated for years at a time in adverse conditions. If you cranked it on good at least the anti-sieze would stop it from rusting on solid but it's not going to increase the holding power on your threads.

 

[Laelkhunter]

Anti-seize makes it go on smoother, with less chance of cross-threading or galling the threads (barrel and brake are stainless). My gunsmith recommended anti-seize and said not to use thread lock. I paid him good $$$, so I will follow his instructions- YMMV

edited to add: The Anti-Seize Compound I use is Loctite LB 8008 C5-A Copper-based Anti-Seize Lubricant Loctite Part # 51147
"Protects Metal Parts from Corrosion and Seizure to 1800* F"

 

[gunmunkey]

If your threads are good I think that's good advice. But if your brake is coming loose the threads may not be holding well. Anti-sieze would make the problem worse in this case. I don't like using threadlocker at all, I prefer torquing to spec. But when things start wearing out or are out of spec and back off, Loctite is the easiest solution.

 

[ntsqd]

With Stainless on Stainless not every anti-sneeze is appropriate. If you are going to use it, research that, it's important.

 

[DSheetz]

Loctite makes some good anti sieze products as well and will be explained what their use is as well on their web site . some things need tightened and loosed then retightened to specs to seat the threads correctly and S.S. will gauld to it's self as will alum .

 

[Sending156s]

The rifle is a new build that has been having some issues fixed from gunsmith that did the build. It also had developed a firing problem. It was light striking and firing only ~ 1 out of three. Gunsmith at Bass Pro Springfield, MO took apart bolt today. Spring, pin, everything was good except there was "Bore Butter - muzzle loaders" in the bolt housing causing everything to be sticky this the light strike. The way my gun was sent to me the Smith May have never torqued the brake. The gunsmith at Bass Pro advised me not to use anything on brake and see what happens now that it is tightened.

Thanks for all advise and help. Getting a new build back like this definitely creates a learning curve.

 

[sable tireur]

It makes me crazy that you have had to fix a new custom rifle. It's unconscionable.

With any parts which rely on threads for attachment, it is the thread fit which is paramount. That's why we have thread gauges and tables listing thread fit dimensions. Threads should be gauged, both the inside and the outside thread.

If two shoulder surfaces are parallel to each other such as the back of the brake and the shoulder on the barrel, simply tightening the two together will insure that they will not loosen. Attempting to increase the tightening of the threads in this situation only stretches the threads allowing the brake to potentially loosen.

So, it's possible that the threads don't fit properly or that the two shoulder surfaces are not parallel which prevents the brake from staying tight.