Load Development for .357 Revolver

[LoneTraveler]

With any pistol round in a revolver, Crimp the bullet.
First you need a crimp to allow pressure to build as much speed as possible before the bullet starts moving in the cylinder and the short barrel of a revolver.

With Mag. loads you must crimp the bullet in the case, So the bullet will not move from recoil and lock the cylinder up.

I have not reloaded any 357 Mag. shells in several years.
I carried a 357 Mag. for 18 years as a service pistol. They are some new powders out there you may want to check out. For years I used Herco with 150 gr. Keith design, wheel weight bullet, With great success.

 

[rogerstv]

Been off the site for a couple weeks due to work. Thank you for the great replies. I will certainly try most of them especially crimping. My RCBS die set should be able to crimp the shell.

I had a 1 MOA 50 yd. group after three shots then yanked one up an inch. Overall kept seven shots in 2.5 MOA at 50. I figured I am to blame for the fliers. Maybe not. Time will tell.

 

[RidgeTop]

Always crimp or you will be sorry. For powder I like Blue Dot.

 

[rogerstv]

I crimped about 20 rounds and went to the range. Group sizes are decent. 2.5 moa at 100. My dies are an old RCBS 3-die set designed for semi wad cutters. After I seat the bullet, I back the seating stem out then lower the die body to crimp the shell. Following the instructions. The crimping process seats the bullet a few thousandths further into the casing even with the seating stem backed way out.

What die set should I buy that will seat the bullet and crimp at the same time? Is this even an option? I am using Hornady XTP bullets.

 

[budlight]

Don't overlook Ramshot Enforcer for .357 Mag as well. Getting really good results with it plus seems readily available. I am running it in both .357 Mag and .357 Max.

Western reloading data gives velocity out of a 6 inch barrel. Some other data is misleading because it has 10 inch. I have 6 and 10 inch 357's. Enforcer is good along with 300-mp. The FPS is really high. 10 inch with a bypod and 4 power scope is something I made for antelope and SILHOUETTE shooting

COL does make a difference. I don't own a 38 special, but I have 100's of cases. So I loaded the shorter cases with 357 max load powder levels with 125 and 158 gr to 1,40 col VS the typical 1.590. I got a measurable gain in FPS because of the big bullet jump to the barrel

 

[spladi]

Western reloading data gives velocity out of a 6 inch barrel. Some other data is misleading because it has 10 inch. I have 6 and 10 inch 357's. Enforcer is good along with 300-mp. The FPS is really high. 10 inch with a bypod and 4 power scope is something I made for antelope and SILHOUETTE shooting

COL does make a difference. I don't own a 38 special, but I have 100's of cases. So I loaded the shorter cases with 357 max load powder levels with 125 and 158 gr to 1,40 col VS the typical 1.590. I got a measurable gain in FPS because of the big bullet jump to the barrel

I'd be interested in knowing the pressure of your .38spcl./.357 max mag loads, personally I would be very leery especially with the 158's.

 

[boston4]

+1 on crimping. Light roll sufficient for the most part. Just like with a rifle, you will find a powder and bullet combination that your gun will like. Have fun and enjoy the new rabbit hole.

 

[SSgt G Cody]

I agree. I use a medium crimp in cannelure bullets, and heavy crimp on smooth bullets. I shoot both 38 spl +P and 357 Mag in competitions with 158 gn jacketed flat-points and hard-cast flat-points. Many powders will work, but my favorite is H414/W760 in both; with 43gn in 38spl +P, and 47gn in 357 Mag, both with Mag primers. Hard hitting and very accurate.

 

[tim_w]

Not crimping .,..that will last for one cyl worth unless they are reduced power loads. Revolvers = crimping. Now taper or roll is a choice but to crimp or not isn't.

Hunting Jacketed: heavy load Remington 180 grain SJHP Lil-Gun Medium 158XTP H110/W296
Cast: 185 WFN lilgun t

Plinking whatever cast and use clays Unique. Do not shoot 38 spl unless you like scrubbing carbon rings out of the cyl.

There are a huge choice of powders you can use. The above are just the popular ones. Everyone that shoots handgun cartdiges should have some jugs clays Unique around. It works in just about everything for Plinking loads.

Have had plenty of loads, be it rev or semi, that were shooting clovers at 25 yd but turned in to a shotgun scatter at 75-100. Test as far as you will ever be willing to shoot IMO.

I like to use new starline cases once you work up a load if you are wanting max accuracy.

For optics your pref of RDS I like the delta point pro on a revolver but the sig Romeo3xl or max 3moa and of course Trij SRO , for fixed power a used leupold m8 2x, Variable Leupold vx3 2.5x8

 

[budlight]

I'd be interested in knowing the pressure of your .38spcl./.357 max mag loads, personally I would be very leery especially with the 158's.

It's science and very logical not Leery! Look up how Pistols and rifles are just the same. Jumping to the lands decreases pressure because the volume is increasing before the bullet hits the resistance of the lands.

Roy Weatherby and his engineering team had this figured out 70 + years ago. They put lots more grains of powder in their cases compared to contemporary rounds. Example : The case volume increase in grains of water was minor compared to the volume of the .361 freebore before the lands in a 300 weatherby magnum. Go to an online calculator for volume of a cylinder and do the math! .308 diameter X .361 Plus the volume of max magazine length of the round compared to chambered. Like a typical rifle seating depth.

So the shorter 38 special has basically no resistance moving forward in the cylinder. I'm also using the slowest pistol powders Like 18 grains behind a 158gr. pill. 300-MP. My 10 inch is launching 158's at over 1600 fps without bragging about exacting chrono data. They are really smoking out of lever actions with 18 inch barrels

 

[spladi]

It's science and very logical not Leery! Look up how Pistols and rifles are just the same. Jumping to the lands decreases pressure because the volume is increasing before the bullet hits the resistance of the lands.

Roy Weatherby and his engineering team had this figured out 70 + years ago. They put lots more grains of powder in their cases compared to contemporary rounds. Example : The case volume increase in grains of water was minor compared to the volume of the .361 freebore before the lands in a 300 weatherby magnum. Go to an online calculator for volume of a cylinder and do the math! .308 diameter X .361 Plus the volume of max magazine length of the round compared to chambered. Like a typical rifle seating depth.

So the shorter 38 special has basically no resistance moving forward in the cylinder. I'm also using the slowest pistol powders Like 18 grains behind a 158gr. pill. 300-MP. My 10 inch is launching 158's at over 1600 fps without bragging about exacting chrono data. They are really smoking out of lever actions with 18 inch barrels

Thanks,
I never heard it explained that way, I think you are playing with fire. My philosophy of safe gun handling carries over to safe reloading also. It only takes one accident to end it all.

 

[boston4]

I have the 686 and a light crimp and Alliant 2400 powder works well. I shoot same load in revolver and Marlin carbine. What's not to like.

 

[Huckleberry75]

I crimped about 20 rounds and went to the range. Group sizes are decent. 2.5 moa at 100. My dies are an old RCBS 3-die set designed for semi wad cutters. After I seat the bullet, I back the seating stem out then lower the die body to crimp the shell. Following the instructions. The crimping process seats the bullet a few thousandths further into the casing even with the seating stem backed way out.

What die set should I buy that will seat the bullet and crimp at the same time? Is this even an option? I am using Hornady XTP bullets.

Adjust the die up and lower the seating stem to get the bullet seated to where you want it. Once the bullet is seated to your desired depth, run the seat stem up out of the way and start working the die down to set your crimp. Once you have the desired amount of crimp set, run your seating stem back down to firmly contact the top of the bullet when the ram is topped out and lock it down. Then you will seat and crimp in one motion. You shouldn't have to adjust the die up and down between seating and crimping. Those rcbs dies will do you just fine.

Does this make sense?

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

Adjust the die up and lower the seating stem to get the bullet seated to where you want it. Once the bullet is seated to your desired depth, run the seat stem up out of the way and start working the die down to set your crimp. Once you have the desired amount of crimp set, run your seating stem back down to firmly contact the top of the bullet when the ram is topped out and lock it down. Then you will seat and crimp in one motion. You shouldn't have to adjust the die up and down between seating and crimping. Those rcbs dies will do you just fine.

Does this make sense?

most of us cast bullet shooters simply use a washer when seating to back off the crimp then pull the washer/ back the seating stem up for the crimp. I hardly ever adjust a crimp die other than the seating stem. I don't like seating/crimping in one step on pistol as it's hard on the bullet. It can be done in one pass with jacketed, but I never do.