Lightweight optics for backpack style hunts.

So not really "long" range at all. I'm considering buying a Swarovski Z3 4-12x50 BT L for hunting above the tree line and limiting my shots to 600 yards max. If you had $900 to spend on an alpine rifle optic what would you get?

My wife has the Swarovski Z3 4-12x50 BT on her Cooper 250Sav AI and it is a great piece of glass and is very bright . She has shot deer with this combination at 320 yards and hares at over 400 yards. With 100 yard zero and a 100 grain Sierra GK at 3060 fps the turret will let her dial to 525 yards. Depending on the calibre you are using you may need to zero it at 200 yards to obtain your desired 600 yard range.
Hukarere Stag (2).jpg
 
My wife has the Swarovski Z3 4-12x50 BT on her Cooper 250Sav AI and it is a great piece of glass and is very bright . She has shot deer with this combination at 320 yards and hares at over 400 yards. With 100 yard zero and a 100 grain Sierra GK at 3060 fps the turret will let her dial to 525 yards. Depending on the calibre you are using you may need to zero it at 200 yards to obtain your desired 600 yard range.
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Thank you. I definitely prefer 200 yard zeroes on hunting rifles
 
So not really "long" range at all. I'm considering buying a Swarovski Z3 4-12x50 BT L for hunting above the tree line and limiting my shots to 600 yards max. If you had $900 to spend on an alpine rifle optic what would you get?
I have a light weight setup using a Swaro Z3 3-9X36 with plex. Its a great light rifle scope, heck the best (if you want it all about low weight). I can get reliable hits on steel out to 500 yards and feel 400 hunting is getting to the setups limits. I use the Strelok Pro and by using the reticle feature and adjusting scope power I can get o good hold point for my shots. I would say YOU HAVE PICKED THE BEST SCOPE for what you want.
 
I posted this on another thread - might be useful. I really like my Z3 and Z5s. The VX5 is a great option too.

For a completely weight focused build - I go with the Leupold VX-2 CDS Ultralight 3-9x33 if memory serves me correctly it's about 9 oz. You may need to search the pre-owned/reseller marked to find one of these.

Next would be the Leupold VX-3i 4.5-14x40mm CDS, weighing 13 oz

Stepping up in optics and weight I like the Swarovski Z series. Z3 4-12x50 BT weighs 14.5 oz

All of the models I mentioned have a quick adjust turret, but you can get them all without. I've been happy with all three on hunting setups to 500 yards. Good luck! Keep us posted on what you decide.
 
I have a swaro z3 4-12x50 on my hunting rifle and have shot it to 750 on target. Only about 300 successfully on game. It is a huge improvement in brightness, clarity, and reticle over the leupy vxIII 4.5-14 that I had before. I would definitely prefer a first focal plane, but that comes with cost and weight ie, S&B PM II or Kahles.
 
So not really "long" range at all. I'm considering buying a Swarovski Z3 4-12x50 BT L for hunting above the tree line and limiting my shots to 600 yards max. If you had $900 to spend on an alpine rifle optic what would you get?

This question gets asked a lot. I base my scope decision on weight. I have set a max weight for a mountain rifle and optic to be 7 lbs. If my rifle is 6 lbs. then I need a scope that is one lb and so on. Now 7 lbs to the guys on rokslide is way too heavy. They like finished rifles under 6 lbs. You need to decide what your target weight is and decide from there. There are plenty of good lightweight scopes. My mountain rifles have scopes that weigh 9 and 16 ozs. and the 16 oz scope will shoot LD no problem with both reticle and turrets. And believe me when I say ounces matter in a mountain rifle. BTW, the Z3 is an excellent scope.
 
Maybe it's just me but at 600 my NXS is cranked to 22. Feel like 9-12 power is limiting for that distance. Both for target acquisition as well as reading mirage and wind at the target.
Far as weight goes, I carry a 11lb NXS topped rifle, spotter and 7 lb tripod for binos and spotter and carry them over many miles of steep mountain country. I couldn't even tell you what my whole pack weighs anymore. I prefer to carry the gear that I feel will make me successful. That said, I also do some unorthodox stuff like stashing rifle and swaro optics in order to get a kill out and return for them later. Just what works for me.
 
This question gets asked a lot. I base my scope decision on weight. I have set a max weight for a mountain rifle and optic to be 7 lbs. If my rifle is 6 lbs. then I need a scope that is one lb and so on. Now 7 lbs to the guys on rokslide is way too heavy. They like finished rifles under 6 lbs. You need to decide what your target weight is and decide from there. There are plenty of good lightweight scopes. My mountain rifles have scopes that weigh 9 and 16 ozs. and the 16 oz scope will shoot LD no problem with both reticle and turrets. And believe me when I say ounces matter in a mountain rifle. BTW, the Z3 is an excellent scope.
Is it just to carry less weight? What about backpacking a desert tech or really any rifle. I just mention the DT because it's 11" shorter than standard rifles and would go in a backpack very well. I've carried plenty of very heavy rifles and other than long ones like a .50 a 14lb rifle isn't too bad in hand. But the .50 weighed 42lbs and eff that.
 
Is it just to carry less weight? What about backpacking a desert tech or really any rifle. I just mention the DT because it's 11" shorter than standard rifles and would go in a backpack very well. I've carried plenty of very heavy rifles and other than long ones like a .50 a 14lb rifle isn't too bad in hand. But the .50 weighed 42lbs and eff that.
It's really about weight. I started my backpack hunting with 10 mile treks into the glacier peak wilderness. My total weight including rifle used to be 60lbs. Now it's closer to 40. It's soooooo much better.
That being said there may be easier ways to shave 4 ounces...but I've done a lot to lighten less expensive areas of my kit.
 
How do you plan to compensate for elevation? Most light and inexpensive scopes, really the vast majority of any scopes I've used, have not had precision turrets. I'll qualify that by saying up front my primary targets are marmots at longer ranges. I'll shoot my light weight hunting rifles to 800 yards. My latest project is a 5lb NULA .284. It will carry a Leupold VX6HD 3-18x44 with Darrel Holland's MOA reticle and his turret design. Scope weighs 19oz Talley ring/bases about 2 I believe. With this type of reticle turret precision is not so critical and it's faster than twisting. Holland offers a vx3 2.5-8x36 with a 1.5 moa reticle that weighs 12oz.
 
How do you plan to compensate for elevation? Most light and inexpensive scopes, really the vast majority of any scopes I've used, have not had precision turrets. I'll qualify that by saying up front my primary targets are marmots at longer ranges. I'll shoot my light weight hunting rifles to 800 yards. My latest project is a 5lb NULA .284. It will carry a Leupold VX6HD 3-18x44 with Darrel Holland's MOA reticle and his turret design. Scope weighs 19oz Talley ring/bases about 2 I believe. With this type of reticle turret precision is not so critical and it's faster than twisting. Holland offers a vx3 2.5-8x36 with a 1.5 moa reticle that weighs 12oz.
I'm definitely looking for a solution that uses turrets as my primary or only way to correct for drop.
 
Have a light weight 6.5 PRC Browning X-Bolt Pro with fluting everywhere and a carbon fiber stock so, like you, I needed a light(er) scope.
My requirements were:
1. mil/mil turrets and reticle
2. lighted "Xmas tree" style reticle
3. FFP reticle
4. less than 30 oz.
5. good quality

So I got a Bushnell Elite LRTS 4.5 - 18 x 44 scope at 28 oz. At 14.5" it's a bit longer than I wanted but in all other respects it checks all the boxes above. The reticle is a G3 which is a smaller Xmas tree reticle more suitable for hunting. It cost $979. from an online store.

BUT, had the Nightforce NX8 2.5 - 20 x 50 scope come out in time I'd have bought it - for about another $900. than my Bushnell LRTS. But this beautiful 12" scope is worth the money. I may even get it later this year with the illuminated MIL-XT reticle.

Eric B.
 
That is a lot of good options. When I get home I will have to see how far out I want to take a 2-10 and see how much more magnification I really want. The weight is an issue but it may come down to what someone is selling used or a sale for this one. Like Antarcticchamp I am looking to use turrets, and thank you to him for asking a question that I also had.
 
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