Light primer strikes

Had a similar problem with a 17 Mach IV. After many frustrating attempts to correct, it turns out it was a head spacing problem. Bought a blank gauge for my Hornady, had my gunsmith run the same reamer in it. The FL resizing die now sits about .010 off the shell plate.
 
You didn't say if you're using hand or factory loads. When I started using a hand primering tool I found I was seating the primers too deep. Are they flush with the case head?.
 
You didn't say if you're using hand or factory loads. When I started using a hand primering tool I found I was seating the primers too deep. Are they flush with the case head?.

handloads. I feel pretty confident in the seating of them, but I will take a second look at those as well. Thanks.
 
And just to throw in some more confusion. Check the firing pin diameter and the firing pin hole in the bolt. Once in my long life time I found the firing pin hole had become deformed and friction betwen the firing pin and it was enough to give me light strikes. Never a problem with a Rem 700 where the hole is "oversized". Not necessarily a good thing ether. LOL
 
Also pull the firing pin assembly and make sure there isn't something inside the bolt body to keep the firing pin from traveling its full distance. If you have ever blanked a primer or 2, there is a good chance that a piece of the primer cup could be lodged in the bolt body near the firing pin hole. And while you have it out, adjust your sizing die so that the bolt handle has a very, very light drag on it when closing on a sized case (unloaded case of course).
 
[QUOTE="crystalgayleguy, post: 1911007, mem
A light primer strike can be indicative of several underlying issiues .
Perhaps a change of components is in order here.

Start with the obvious:
I would start with a complete break down of your bolt and thoroughly degrease and clean all components.
Pay particular attention to your firing pin and spring assembly.
Remove any carbon and oil traces by degreasing then wiping clean.
When completely clean lightly lubricate firing pin and spring assembly with Rem lube and set aside to dry.
Now clean that bolt face thoroughly removing any traces of carbon fouling etc.
Remove the ejector and extractors and work that bolt face assembly until it is as clean as you can get it.
Lightly lube with Rem oil and wipe dry , paying particular attention to the small springs and detent ball found under the ejector and extractor. ( I 'm describing a Savage Bolt )
Assemble the complete bolt assembly and set it aside.
Use this time to disassemble your rifle magazines and or your cartridge magazines internal or. bottom release assembly. Magazines can so easily be overlooked for preventative maintenance.
Assemble your firearm and dry fire using snap caps if you have them making certain to look , listen and feel for any signs of problems.

Now about this component business.
Light primer strikes can and do sometimes happen. Unfortunately they happen when neither expected or wanted.
Assuming that you have taken apart your bolt and examined it for problems such as bent or weak springs, or a damaged firing pin, bent, sprung, or otherwise and found everything functioning as it should be let's
look at the primers themselves, but before we go there. (read on )

Let's just start with you dies themselves.

Take them apart, and thoroughly clean them, . reassemble and look at shell plate /shell holder.
Clean and place back in your press. Pay careful attention to any deformities shown in the shell holder/ shell plate area.
Shell holders do get worn-down and need replacement , especially if you are using them to neck turn under power, or if they have been in use so long that they are showing signs of age, and can become an underlying problem with primer ignition.
They are fairly inexpensive and should be replaced as needed.

Finally Lets examine your primers :

If your primers are not seated - .003 sub flush, are sitting proud, or the brass primer pockets have not been properly cleaned . champhered , and deburred we will start here.
Just for the heck of it prime and load some virgin brass ( another brand is indicated here ) and separate it from your other reloads.
Load as normal but load at least 1/2 of your virgin brass with a different brand of primer.
CCI primers are very hard, while Winchester primers are by nature assembled with a softer anvil.
Try a mixture of several different brands and color code each primer with a magic marker.
Handstamps will suffice for you to separate different brass hulls.
Once you have assembled your reloads it's off to the range to go test out what you have got.
Hopefully you have answered your own dilemma.

If not IMHO your firing pin and its assembly would now be suspect.

Change it out along with all hardware and springs using factory new components.
Be certain to give it a light coat of oil and wipe it down before final assembly !
You should hopefully be back in business as you have systematically ruled out any existing problems ,unless the entire bolt has somehow been damaged or is otherwise sprung.
I'm really sorry for the long post
Thank You for reading .
 
Last edited:
[QUOTE="crystalgayleguy, post: 1911007, mem
A light primer strike can be indicative of several underlying issiues .
Perhaps a change of components is in order here.

Start with the obvious:
I would start with a complete break down of your bolt and thoroughly degrease and clean all components.
Pay particular attention to your firing pin and spring assembly.
Remove any carbon and oil traces by degreasing then wiping clean.
When completely clean lightly lubricate firing pin and spring assembly with Rem lube and set aside to dry.
Now clean that bolt face thoroughly removing any traces of carbon fouling etc.
Remove the ejector and extractors and work that bolt face assembly until it is as clean as you can get it.
Lightly lube with Rem oil and wipe dry , paying particular attention to the small springs and detent ball found under the ejector and extractor. ( I 'm describing a Savage Bolt )
Assemble the complete bolt assembly and set it aside.
Use this time to disassemble your rifle magazines and or your cartridge magazines internal or. bottom release assembly. Magazines can so easily be overlooked for preventative maintenance.
Assemble your firearm and dry fire using snap caps if you have them making certain to look , listen and feel for any signs of problems.

Now about this component business.
Light primer strikes can and do sometimes happen. Unfortunately they happen when neither expected or wanted.
Assuming that you have taken apart your bolt and examined it for problems such as bent or weak springs, or a damaged firing pin, bent, sprung, or otherwise and found everything functioning as it should be let's
look at the primers themselves, but before we go there. (read on )

Let's just start with you dies themselves.

Take them apart, and thoroughly clean them, . reassemble and look at shell plate /shell holder.
Clean and place back in your press. Pay careful attention to any deformities shown in the shell holder/ shell plate area.
Shell holders do get worn-down and need replacement , especially if you are using them to neck turn under power, or if they have been in use so long that they are showing signs of age, and can become an underlying problem with primer ignition.
They are fairly inexpensive and should be replaced as needed.

Finally Lets examine your primers :

If your primers are not seated - .003 sub flush, are sitting proud, or the brass primer pockets have not been properly cleaned . champhered , and deburred we will start here.
Just for the heck of it prime and load some virgin brass ( another brand is indicated here ) and separate it from your other reloads.
Load as normal but load at least 1/2 of your virgin brass with a different brand of primer.
CCI primers are very hard, while Winchester primers are by nature assembled with a softer anvil.
Try a mixture of several different brands and color code each primer with a magic marker.
Handstamps will suffice for you to separate different brass hulls.
Once you have assembled your reloads it's off to the range to go test out what you have got.
Hopefully you have answered your own dilemma.

If not IMHO your firing pin and its assembly would now be suspect.

Change it out along with all hardware and springs using factory new components.
Be certain to give it a light coat of oil and wipe it down before final assembly !
You should hopefully be back in business as you have systematically ruled out any existing problems ,unless the entire bolt has somehow been damaged or is otherwise sprung.
I'm really sorry for the long post
Thank You for reading .
awesome
 
If the firing pin slides inside the bolt....... you probably good. Firing pin protrusion should be between .035" and .045". Some are longer but that takes away from travel. Your firing pin travel is good @ .225 plus. If you reload and do not check case headspace there is a high probability this is your problem. The pin will hit the primer the case will move forward robbing needed energy for ignition. For a bolt action .001" -.003" is plenty room for a case. Anything more is a potential issue.
 
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