Leveling the Scope Reticle for Long Range Rifles

[gunner69]

Byrnesy, yes it's possible to have the scope correctly aligned to the bore and end up with it "canted" (not parallel) to the action. In this case, align the anti-cant indicator so that it is level when the scope is level.

I cannot for the life of me understand this. Please ellaborate. To me the bore being round cannot be canted without a reference - ie scope crosshairs. Any side of the bore could be any position. If the action is proven level (the manner of doing so can be debated) and then the scope is then alligned on the action using gravity (ie a plumb line) against which the bullet will travel till impact then you can be sure you are propertly alligned.

Any device that is unable to prove perfectly level perpendicular mounting postion to the crosshairs is only solving half of the problem. First perfectly level action (assuming barrel is installed straight) and second scope plumbed against gravity upon perfectly level action.

 

[secondofangle]

How do you do it if there's a rail covering the barrel

Such as a DTA rifle which has a picatinny rail almost to the muzzle and way beyond the bell of the scope?

 

[Mikecr]

Gunner69, neither the action nor gun amounts to actual shooting level.
I had my T2K setup at 7deg cant, and it was very comfortable and well shooting.
That is, the whole gun was turned under the scope elevation adjustment(which was plumb).

A bore can be indexed, they're not drilled straight, and there was a possibility that my T2K would not do as well turned. But it did, and this is not a matter of scope level.
Actions are not indexed anymore than stocks are. They're put together more or less straight only. And it doesn't matter that bags and bipods are not indexed to exactly centerline of gravity, as a free falling bullet is.

For us dialers all that matters is that the scope's elevation adjustment is plumb. We don't need plumb crosshairs, or crosshairs at all. A simple dot is sufficient.
For those who hold over, they need a plumb crosshair only.
The turrets, rings, bases, action, stock, rests? None of that matters.

 

[SPRdave175]

What would be the outcome by performing step 1 with the RingTrue to level the rifle and then using the RingTrue to level a collimator and then adjusting/rotating the scope reticle to the collimator (instead of placing the level on top of the elevation turret). Would this be a more accurate method #2?

 

[gunner69]

Only one way to tell. Use a gravity plumb line to make a perfectly vertical line on a 100 yard target with zero at the bottom. Fire hitting the center of the zero point at the bottom of the plumb line. Then click up 30 moa and align the vertical cross hair with the plumb line on the target and fire again. If the bullet is left or right of the plumb line on the target then you are canted. This cant will be exacerbated at longer ranges. If your bullet lands on the plumb line then you are not canted.

 

[Len Backus]

Only one way to tell. Use a gravity plumb line to make a perfectly vertical line on a 100 yard target with zero at the bottom. Fire hitting the center of the zero point at the bottom of the plumb line. Then click up 30 moa and align the vertical cross hair with the plumb line on the target and fire again. If the bullet is left or right of the plumb line on the target then you are canted. This cant will be exacerbated at longer ranges. If your bullet lands on the plumb line then you are not canted.

Exactly!

 

[gunner69]

So if we all agree that this would indicate cant and yet the vertical reticle of the scope is aligned on the target plumb line, what is canted? Answer the rifle below the scope. So you do need to level the rifle to a reference point indicating horizontal level prior to leveling the scope against a gravity plumb line.

 

[gunner69]

Unless of course your plan is to not hold the rifle upright when shooting.

 

[CRaTxn]

I find that, unless you have a very calm wind day and a very very accurate rifle...50yards or even 25 yards is a better distance for your plumb line shooting checkout.

 

[bruce_ventura]

What would be the outcome by performing step 1 with the RingTrue to level the rifle and then using the RingTrue to level a collimator and then adjusting/rotating the scope reticle to the collimator (instead of placing the level on top of the elevation turret). Would this be a more accurate method #2?

I use this method often and I works very well for bullet drop compensated reticles. For customers who dial elevation, however, I always plumb the elevation turret.

As others have stated, for long range shooting you still need to use a good anti-cant indicator that has a spirit level (not a bead in a curved tube).

 

[mikebob]

I was in a shooting class one time and knowing me I said something he didn't like about scope leveling. He challenge me to shoot a clay pigeon at 750 yrds. I said sure hit it first shot thank the lord. He walked up there laid his gun on its side, dialed the windage turret to 750 and hit that clay pigeon first shot. I tried to do it sideways and no go always hitting right. Now I use plumb line. If not true verticle sooner or later some old boy going to teach you a lesson.

 

[Don A Parsons]

So a question before I get going on my first rifle and scope canting right too left.

Let's say I set up at the 100 yard bench with Bulls eye at the very bottom of my tall target. The plum line is strait up and down with the line running up wards too about 4 feet.

The 5 bullets are Bulls eye.

Now I crank the MOA dial too the stop,,, about 30 MOA.
Fire at the bottom of the target at the Bulls eye since my eye sight POI is the same.

The bullet hits high on the plum line as its suppose to do.

So let's say the 5 shots hit too the Right side of the plum line.

Question is,,, which way do I turn the scope.
Clock wise or counter clock wise ???

Don from Western Canada.

PS: This will be done with a solid F Class rest from a solid cement bench rest with "NO" wind with rifle plum level / strait up & down.

 

[lyotehunter]

I get mine close with a bubble level then hang a plumbob with a bright line ,I then look downthe bore and make sure it isstraight up and downin the bore.theni lock it in tbe vise andmake sure the verticle line in the scope lines up with the line and is still straight in the bore. I then shoot to verify.this method has been good on all rifles I use for long range.

 

[Don A Parsons]

I've got the rifle dead level, and the cross hairs right too left as well.


Scope bubble is in place too help with shot to shot consistency when I head out too do the tall target test.

I'll wait too hear from others on this forum before turning the scope too line it up with the 100 yard plum line.

The above post is a question I need the answer too before any adjustments happen.

Don