ntsqd
Well-Known Member
Yes, see my first post in this thread.Has any one used this tool? I've seen it and considered getting one, but I'm skeptical about its accuracy.
Yes, see my first post in this thread.Has any one used this tool? I've seen it and considered getting one, but I'm skeptical about its accuracy.
When mounting without a rail and trying to use the plumb bob method, getting the rifle level is the most challenging part for me. I have used Hand Skills' method for most of my rifles and I feel I'm close enough. My question is: What is the best method to level a rifle when a rail will not be mounted? The Wheeler bubble levels are crap. Is there a higher quality level that I can buy?Gotta agree, optical is the way to go. I have a slightly different method. I remove the bolt (when possible). Then I shine a flashlight through the OCCULAR, projecting the reticle on the wall.
Then I sight through the bore with my eye, and adjust the scope so the reticle perfectly bisects the bore - when this occurs, I KNOW my scope and reticle are coincident with the bore. Not saying it's the best way for everybody, but I have tried a lot of methods and this one is the best for me!
It works just fineHas any one used this tool? I've seen it and considered getting one, but I'm skeptical about its accuracy.
When mounting without a rail and trying to use the plumb bob method, getting the rifle level is the most challenging part for me. I have used Hand Skills' method for most of my rifles and I feel I'm close enough. My question is: What is the best method to level a rifle when a rail will not be mounted? The Wheeler bubble levels are crap. Is there a higher quality level that I can buy?
You have obviously never done it, so why don't you stop commenting on it? I have actually used both and know exactly how well to the two methods compare.Unless the scope can rotate in the rings nearly friction free I don't see tightening the rings with a stack of compressible anything underneath being a guarantee that the scope is level. When the cards are more compressible than the amount of friction in the rotation, the scope won't be level. Using paper card stock makes this a pretty sure thing.
Not knowing myself, and regarding your scenario above, will the erector align with the scope body or are they independent? Meaning, if I can acurately align the scope body to the rifle action, does this assure that the erector will move the reticle in alignment with the bore? If not, then your method is the only way to make sure the reticle tracks, if it can be aligned to the action, right?Exactly. Removing assumptions is not easy, and it's unfortunate that in our culture, many of us are looking for the best 'gadget' instead of trying to understand the system and variables therein holistically.
Unfortunately I cannot answer your question. Yes, there are better measurement tools, but establishing a datum or reference is not always easy. What I like about the method described is that it does not require a level of any kind.
The thing is, even if a guy gets the reticle perfectly plumb through the bore, the reticle is not part of the erector, so there is no guarantee the turrets are plumb.
I maintain that the best procedure is to test the scope on a heavy base FIRST before installing. Once I have confirmed that the reticle is aligned with the erector (the reticle does not drift left or right when elevation is dialed on the heavy base), I can be confident going forward.
Not knowing myself, and regarding your scenario above, will the erector align with the scope body or are they independent? Meaning, if I can acurately align the scope body to the rifle action, does this assure that the erector will move the reticle in alignment with the bore? If not, then your method is the only way to make sure the reticle tracks, if it can be aligned to the action, right?
Is the moon full or close to it ?