Laping scope rings

"a set of warne permanent rings, you can use em as a carry handle and they just don't move"


+1 for the above
 
I use seekins precision and love them. For what it's worth, Mike Resignio (TacOps) uses the Mark 4 Leupold Rings/Bases if that tells you anything. I'm sure he laps either way, but his rifles shoot lights out......
 
Has any one ever had a scope slip in Signature rings??? The slick plastic concerns me on heavy recoiling guns, other than that I like them.
 
Has any one ever had a scope slip in Signature rings??? The slick plastic concerns me on heavy recoiling guns, other than that I like them.

I have them on .300Win Mag and .338 Win Mag, what heavy recoiling gun do you have? If your scope tube/base set up allows you to, you can add additional rings for added security or piece of mind if need be similar to these APS beauts (not mine ... from Kirby's website)

23983990.jpg


23984418.jpg
 
I had reservations about slipping as well...I'm shooting 300Rum and 338. Edge for my big guys. I wouldn't be concerned as much with the lesser chamberings but the Egw warne setup has worked so why change now? I'd go badger but its just not in the budget...:cool:
 
I own a lapping bar.
When I need to mount a scope and have the needed rings I will not mount the scope without lapping the rings.
If I need to purchase rings Burris Signature are my first choice.
I have concerns about the scope slipping in the Signature rings but have never had any issues
 
It is not about how good the rings are it is about ALIGNMENT of the rings.
Scopes with dents have a much lower value than those without. Misaligned rings can cause improper tracking and poor scope preformance also

+1

I rarely lap/ream rings because if you buy good rings and INSTALL them correctly they wont
mark your scope.

If they will not Aline properly I replace them If I can. If they are hard/impossible to find then
I will lap/ream them. But only enough to correct them. The biggest problem with reaming or
lapping is that to much material is removed and the rings will not hold the scope very well, so if you do ream or lap don't over do it.

I prefer Dual Dove Tail mounts and rings but you must get them aligned properly.(And don't
use the scope)For this I made a 1" and a 30mm mandrel that I use to turn the rings in and
align them.

Also on any dove tail ring I use anti seize to prevent galling.

The rail mounts are easier to install but after installing the rail on the action I use the mandrel
and tighten the rings on it before I tighten the ring to base screws. (this aligns the rings better).
And then re check the alignment of the rings.

There is no reason to mark a fine scope if everything is done properly including Reaming/lapping
if nessary.

J E CUSTOM
 
One other thing that I forgot to mention earlier, I've seen lots and LOTS of rings way over tightened and marking/damaging scopes that way as well. I use an inch lbs. torque wrench and set my base to action screws at 25 in./lbs and ring screws at 15 in./lbs and have had no issues on even the big guns.
 
One other thing that I forgot to mention earlier, I've seen lots and LOTS of rings way over tightened and marking/damaging scopes that way as well. I use an inch lbs. torque wrench and set my base to action screws at 25 in./lbs and ring screws at 15 in./lbs and have had no issues on even the big guns.
+1 there,,, except I go by the size of the screw for torque. I've had to take the barreled action w/scope mounted to the milling machine and mill the head off of a screw to relieve enough tension to get 'um out.
 
Re: Lapping scope rings

Burris Signature rings are the way to go: No lapping needed, no ring marks. Note: Nightforce instructions warn not to use turn in rings, for the reasons mentioned above: Using the scope to turn the dovetail can bend the tube.

Lapping works but you only lap the bottom ring.
 
I'd suspect the top half of a ring could do as much damage as a misalined bottom half. If too much is removed from the inside, take a bit off the flats where the screws go to get that 'clamping'effect. The only time I've used Burris Signature is when the mounting holes for the bases are not on the centerline. Lots of "home built" Mausers/Springfiels/1917s/1914s like that, as well as the occasional modern day factory rifle. If those mounting holes are off the centerline too far, even Burris can't help. Use something other than your scope to turn rings into their bases. Even a wooden dowel rod works pretty good.
 

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