stinkyduck13
Well-Known Member
Sometimes I can't power it up again so I unplug the small usb and plug it back in.
I know the LR has some fairly well defined power requirements. I don't know off hand what those blocks put out. I've never heard of anyone doing it that way.Most likely you just need to change the trigger mode as previously suggested. To those making 110v comments are you new to USB? The USB adaptor has a transformer/rectifier in it. This has been this way for a couple of decades now? You are not getting 110v from a 110v adapter to USB. It is converted from 110v ac to 5v dc.
No kidding........He said he connected "directly to an outlet" but I see where he mentioned using the supplied USB cord now.Most likely you just need to change the trigger mode as previously suggested. To those making 110v comments are you new to USB? The USB adaptor has a transformer/rectifier in it. This has been this way for a couple of decades now? You are not getting 110v from a 110v adapter to USB. It is converted from 110v ac to 5v dc.
I just checked that's standard output for a usb wall adapter also.5v, 2.1a is labradars battery spec-- too many amps or volts and it can damage the unit-- check your 110 wall adapter to see what it's output is
LL! Sorry, my bad.No, I haven't gone to the range yet. I was in my living just fiddling with the radar. I went thru the settings, put it on a stand, pointed it at a wall that was 15 yards away, armed it. The orange light comes on solid for a few seconds and then it starts to blink. It is recording shots on its own in my living room. In settings I have it set with to use doppler and arm time of 300 seconds. I tried the trigger setting and no blinking orange light when armed. Looks like doppler setting is the only setting that is giving me the blinking orange light when armed.
I have the JKL trigger. I haven't gone to the range yet. Just received the radar and trigger yesterday.
Most likely you just need to change the trigger mode as previously suggested. To those making 110v comments are you new to USB? The USB adaptor has a transformer/rectifier in it. This has been this way for a couple of decades now? You are not getting 110v from a 110v adapter to USB. It is converted from 110v ac to 5v dc.
USB is a standard. Obviously over the years there have been "upgrades"/ "updates". I would also personally stay away from cheap Chinese junk but one should theoretically the same as the next. USB C and Apples Lightning are no different in principal. They should all be the same voltage. Amperage is not a delivery in the same sense that voltage is. The amperage will be what the load is. The maximum amperage of each will be different. They are also data delivery capable and that throughput will vary by the standard/cable/adapter.Do all "wall warts" convert to 5v dc? I've got several warts floating around the house from different sources. Not sure if they are all interchangeable.
Not true-- up to 48volts are all common in the fast charger world-- they use the same USB input/output compatiUSB is a standard. Obviously over the years there have been "upgrades"/ "updates". I would also personally stay away from cheap Chinese junk but one should theoretically the same as the next. USB C and Apples Lightning are no different in principal. They should all be the same voltage. Amperage is not a delivery in the same sense that voltage is. The amperage will be what the load is. The maximum amperage of each will be different. They are also data delivery capable and that throughput will vary by the standard/cable/adapter.
I am not sure how to word it differently but see my comment on updates/upgrades over the years? Within each version the specs will be the same. Your post did not list a standard but companies doing their own thing.Not true-- up to 48volts are all common in the fast charger world-- they use the same USB input/output compatiView attachment 482478ble cables
Check out this chart with specs on usb charger specs