Keeping it simple with reloading

[QuietTexan]

Less time, less effort, less handling the brass. Compared to dry tumbling it saves an hour or three on the clock, compared to SS pin wet tumbling or ultrasonic methods it saves hours of drying time on top of that. It's cheaper too, no equipment to buy to not do anything.

Same reason why some people load on a progressive or a turret instead of a single stage. Why some people use powder drops or Autotricklers. Why some people measure headspace and some screw the die down and squeeze the heck out of brass for no good reason.

 

[L.Sherm]

Time is not the reason I dont tumble.
I dont use lube seating my bullets other than the first time using brand new brass.

 

[WildRose]

Less time, less effort, less handling the brass. Compared to dry tumbling it saves an hour or three on the clock, compared to SS pin wet tumbling or ultrasonic methods it saves hours of drying time on top of that. It's cheaper too, no equipment to buy to not do anything.

Same reason why some people load on a progressive or a turret instead of a single stage. Why some people use powder drops or Autotricklers. Why some people measure headspace and some screw the die down and squeeze the heck out of brass for no good reason.

Makes sense I guess but I never get in a hurry in the reloading room and being retired I don't have to. Years ago I notice a lot of excessive wear on my brass from sand being stuck to it and in the dies and that finally convinced me I need to clean things up a bit.

 

[Deleted member 119066]

Wipe it off with alcohol on a rag

Bingo

Time is not the reason I dont tumble.
I dont use lube seating my bullets other than the first time using brand new brass.

Bingo

But I like the saved time too.

 

[Korhil78]

I take a fired case, clean the neck and shoulder with 0000 steel wool, wipe it down, anneal it, lube with die wax, size it with a FL die and decal, wipe off lube with a rag, run a nylon brush through the neck two or three times, use a expander mandrel, seat a primer by feel, drop powder and seat the bullet.

I'll trim if it needs before any of that.

But that's pretty much it. I have always annealed so it's just a habit. It's all such a simple process and I get very consistent ammo.

 

[nealm66]

No lube?

 

[WildRose]

No lube?

It's really not needed. If you feel the "need" to lube just lube the bullets and use a wax based lubricant, HBN, or graphite powder.

Flat based bullets can occasionally be a pain dry but boat tails should load just fine with no lube if your brass is properly prepped.

 

[Hard rock]

It's really not needed. If you feel the "need" to lube just lube the bullets and use a wax based lubricant, HBN, or graphite powder.

Flat based bullets can occasionally be a pain dry but boat tails should load just fine with no lube if your brass is properly prepped.

The residue left on a nylon brush from previous cartridges works with one pass ,in and out of the neck . That will smooth things up without overdoing it , and still allowing residue in the fired neck too act as a lubricant.

 

[nealm66]

I meant no lube when your fl sizing the case? I'm still not sure how this works and wiping each cartridge clean with alcohol and all the other steps to avoid throwing them into a tumbler has me wondering. Always learning something new but I'm definitely questioning this. I use a simple walnut media and don't seem to have any accuracy problems but always open to good ideas

 

[CrankyYankee]

I use Hornady Imperial Wax to F/L size and pull the expander ball through the necks. I've tried not cleaning the brass and just ran a plastic bore brush through the necks, then seating. Seating the bullets became waaayyyyy to easy to where I questioned the ability of the neck to hold the bullet in place in a magazine during recoil. My SD and ES numbers went haywire as well.

Is anyone leaving wax in the necks and seating with good results down range??

 

[Korhil78]

I meant no lube when your fl sizing the case? I'm still not sure how this works and wiping each cartridge clean with alcohol and all the other steps to avoid throwing them into a tumbler has me wondering. Always learning something new but I'm definitely questioning this. I use a simple walnut media and don't seem to have any accuracy problems but always open to good ideas

I corrected it. I just forgot to add that step haha. I'd have a heck of a time with no lube on the cases.

 

[WildRose]

I meant no lube when your fl sizing the case? I'm still not sure how this works and wiping each cartridge clean with alcohol and all the other steps to avoid throwing them into a tumbler has me wondering. Always learning something new but I'm definitely questioning this. I use a simple walnut media and don't seem to have any accuracy problems but always open to good ideas

You must lube them when resizing, even if only neck sizing or you're going to have some serious problems.

 

[WildRose]

I use Hornady Imperial Wax to F/L size and pull the expander ball through the necks. I've tried not cleaning the brass and just ran a plastic bore brush through the necks, then seating. Seating the bullets became waaayyyyy to easy to where I questioned the ability of the neck to hold the bullet in place in a magazine during recoil. My SD and ES numbers went haywire as well.

Is anyone leaving wax in the necks and seating with good results down range??

I use Hornady One shot and I know I'm getting some on the inside or the necks because I spray them standing up.

I've made no effort at all to remove it so I'm sure it's still there and again, never had a problem. If anything it will help with consistency Is should think.

I know the old timers I learned from left the wax they used in bullet seating and again no problems.

 

[RUFFIAN R - NY]

WildRose: Have to agree with you on that one for sure. I have been using graphite on inside of neck for a long long time and it will not kill / hurt the powder charge. Then I use Imperial wax when resizing my brass-it goes a long way toooo.