Are there non-serviceable rimfire cans out there?
Or are you saying it's a .22 cal (.224 sized) centerline can?
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Or are you saying it's a .22 cal (.224 sized) centerline can?
John Klingenberg
Well-Known Member
Up here on the 49th parallel you almost have to have a cover since we spend 7 months a year in winter. Two shots and the mirage is terrible.
BrentM
Well-Known Member
That's how I clean my non serviceable. Works well.
QuietTexan
Well-Known Member
I think so. If you accept what the process can and can't give you.
I'm talking a couple minutes in hot water here to get the waxy crud out, not making this thing shine like a new penny. Don't to run it for a super long time, don't use crazy chemicals that would damage the coating or the metal, and don't expect it to do more than remove loose crud.
Do NOT use CLR on a steel can, don't go nuts with a solvent, run the cycle once, if it looks like the finish is lifting off the can STOP. If the surface paint of the can is damaged this process can remove finish and you'd have to respray the can. I'll run the internals of my take-down models through with cleaners but not the outside tube or a non-serviceable can. Maybe someone else here has used a chemical on a can with success, I've never used solvent on a painted/coated part. Dish soap for oil but not a solvent.
How this process works is very tiny bubbles form when the water pressure waves move and hit then back off the item. These low pressure bubbles collapse back against the part and the hammer the debris off. They are NOT gentle, especially cheaper ones that make a lower frequency because the bubbles are bigger so they hammer the part harder. This same cavitation process is what destroys propellers - low pressure zones from alone the edge of the prop which opens little bubbles and they collapse and hammer the metal over and over and over. This is why leaving a part in for longer than a cycle is bad - it'll clean what it'll clean pretty fast and after that you're just hammering on the finish then the metal. Mine runs for a max of 480 seconds then cuts off.
These are extreme examples because a little HF machine wouldn't ever do this even if it ran for years, but it's important to know that nothing but water and pressure can do this to metal:
If you want to go all-out because you're worried about the ultrasonic now.....:
Decimator Suppressor Cleaning System - Bore Tech
Order Decimator Suppressor Cleaning System for only 249.99 online at Bore Tech for the best in firearm cleaning and care!
ncina5
Active Member
Really appreciate the guidance on this! My can is stainless steel, okay for CLR on that?I think so. If you accept what the process can and can't give you.
I'm talking a couple minutes in hot water here to get the waxy crud out, not making this thing shine like a new penny. Don't to run it for a super long time, don't use crazy chemicals that would damage the coating or the metal, and don't expect it to do more than remove loose crud.
Do NOT use CLR on a steel can, don't go nuts with a solvent, run the cycle once, if it looks like the finish is lifting off the can STOP. If the surface paint of the can is damaged this process can remove finish and you'd have to respray the can. I'll run the internals of my take-down models through with cleaners but not the outside tube or a non-serviceable can. Maybe someone else here has used a chemical on a can with success, I've never used solvent on a painted/coated part. Dish soap for oil but not a solvent.
How this process works is very tiny bubbles form when the water pressure waves move and hit then back off the item. These low pressure bubbles collapse back against the part and the hammer the debris off. They are NOT gentle, especially cheaper ones that make a lower frequency because the bubbles are bigger so they hammer the part harder. This same cavitation process is what destroys propellers - low pressure zones from alone the edge of the prop which opens little bubbles and they collapse and hammer the metal over and over and over. This is why leaving a part in for longer than a cycle is bad - it'll clean what it'll clean pretty fast and after that you're just hammering on the finish then the metal. Mine runs for a max of 480 seconds then cuts off.
These are extreme examples because a little HF machine wouldn't ever do this even if it ran for years, but it's important to know that nothing but water and pressure can do this to metal:
View attachment 368429
View attachment 368430
If you want to go all-out because you're worried about the ultrasonic now.....:
Decimator Suppressor Cleaning System - Bore Tech
Order Decimator Suppressor Cleaning System for only 249.99 online at Bore Tech for the best in firearm cleaning and care!www.boretech.com
BrentM
Well-Known Member
gemtech has a pile of youtube vids on their recommended procedures. Google it.
I'm confused. I have two cans that are titanium (one has stainless baffles) with no coating and have used CLR on them for a couple of years with no ill effect. I take them apart, soak for a couple of hours and will rinse with warm water and remove any additional debris with a tooth brush. I've cleaned them both this way twenty times or so and they come out looking brand new. Is there a negative long term effect I should be worried about?I think so. If you accept what the process can and can't give you.
I'm talking a couple minutes in hot water here to get the waxy crud out, not making this thing shine like a new penny. Don't to run it for a super long time, don't use crazy chemicals that would damage the coating or the metal, and don't expect it to do more than remove loose crud.
Do NOT use CLR on a steel can, don't go nuts with a solvent, run the cycle once, if it looks like the finish is lifting off the can STOP. If the surface paint of the can is damaged this process can remove finish and you'd have to respray the can. I'll run the internals of my take-down models through with cleaners but not the outside tube or a non-serviceable can. Maybe someone else here has used a chemical on a can with success, I've never used solvent on a painted/coated part. Dish soap for oil but not a solvent.
How this process works is very tiny bubbles form when the water pressure waves move and hit then back off the item. These low pressure bubbles collapse back against the part and the hammer the debris off. They are NOT gentle, especially cheaper ones that make a lower frequency because the bubbles are bigger so they hammer the part harder. This same cavitation process is what destroys propellers - low pressure zones from alone the edge of the prop which opens little bubbles and they collapse and hammer the metal over and over and over. This is why leaving a part in for longer than a cycle is bad - it'll clean what it'll clean pretty fast and after that you're just hammering on the finish then the metal. Mine runs for a max of 480 seconds then cuts off.
These are extreme examples because a little HF machine wouldn't ever do this even if it ran for years, but it's important to know that nothing but water and pressure can do this to metal:
View attachment 368429
View attachment 368430
If you want to go all-out because you're worried about the ultrasonic now.....:
Decimator Suppressor Cleaning System - Bore Tech
Order Decimator Suppressor Cleaning System for only 249.99 online at Bore Tech for the best in firearm cleaning and care!
BrentM
Well-Known Member
No. Stainless is good to go. So is Ti. I've seen a pile of vids and instructions on cleaning. My can paint was damaged from the sonic but also from being run in and out of scabbards for a few years. Distress wears the coating down. I literally could give a crap less. Cerakote is easy to apply if I want that thing to look new again but it's just going to get used the exact same way over and over and over.........
10-4 and thanks for the clarification.
QuietTexan
Well-Known Member
If you soak long enough the finish will get removed, and you can get pitting in the welds. It's not always the base metal of the part that's the issue, the welding method and filler used to make the can can be a problem.
ZEP says no problems for stainless steel, but the coatings are another story. I'm not going to tell someone on the internet to use CLR on anything that I don't know the alloy of it.
ZEP says no problems for stainless steel, but the coatings are another story. I'm not going to tell someone on the internet to use CLR on anything that I don't know the alloy of it.
WYcowgirl
Member
I use a burn cover because it cuts down on mariage when shooting long distance. I shoot PRS competitions and usually shoot 10 rounds very quickly and it heats up fast. The cover cuts down on the amount of mirage you see in the scope.
