Is this even possible? Rem 700 Incredible length of cartridge OAL to lands

Yep definitely possible.


My 700 5R Milspec .308 seats Berger 175 VLDs at 3.050 to touch the lands. Still shoots them at 1/2" typically.
don't get hung up on touching the lands. Just start at SAAMI length and work out from there.
Having measured a few dozen students' Remington tactical rifles (5R, PSS, LTR) during handloading classes, this is my experience as well. Load them to mag length and be happy.
Remington 30 caliber chambers have long freebore/throats. So yes. My 308 will not have any bearing surface left in the case with a 168 SMK seated to the lands. As for twist it's 1:10 unless marked differently on the barrel. It will not be slower than 1:10. It's highly likely your barrel isn't free floated in a wood stock.

2 MOA doesn't mean much without knowing number of shots and seeing the groups.
I have a Remington LTR that shoots 100 yard bugholes with 168 SMKs/FGMM 168s and I can't reach the rifling without the bullet falling out in that thing either. Coming from a 1k benchrest/F-Class background, it really bothered me at first, but as well as it shoots, I try to put it out of my mind.

As was posted upstream, the OP's '06 is a "hunting rifle". It is designed to digest factory ammo in whatever bullet weight and design the shooter might choose. Load to mag length and be happy.

FWIW, one will usually find that bullets with a tangent ogive are more forgiving of seating length and bullet selection may help with finding best precision from a long-throated gun.
 
I would push them farther into the neck, as has been said, and start at SAMMI and work to a longer COAL and see when you get acceptable results.

There is really no advantage to having them seated out that far in this situation. You don't need to be that close to the lands…Bergers and others often work well there but Berger also make their Classic Hunter line which is aimed at folks who can't get close to the lands due to mag length or other reasons.
 
There is considerable research demonstrating that very good and sustainable accuracy can be obtained by jumping the bullet. Some of this is detailed on the Precision Rifle Blog. As far as what the Bench Rest folks are doing; I thank them for pushing the limits, but I doubt mine or your rifle will ever shoot in the 0's. Find yourself a load/seating depth that will shoot 1moa day in and out and be happy. Hit probability increases marginally beyond that. The smaller your groups shrink the less the hit probability increases. If you out grow the limits of your rifle you'll know what to do by then.
 
I would run 180g in that long throat and consider it a blessing, Sierra BTSP, Hornady BTSP, Nosler ballistic tip. I have one barrel that I am shooting 168g LRAB in at 3000 fps with R#22, a Rem 700 LR that is simply unbelievably accurate for a $550 gun.

Bed the rifle, free float the barrel, and make sure the mag box is loose between the floor plate and action, you will have a very, very accurate rifle. A Speer 165g BTSP would put more bullet shank in the case than those poly tip bullets, so would a 165g Sierra BTSP, and the Sierra 165g BTHP Game king is tougher than any of these std cup and core bullets...very accurate bullet also.
Thanks for the advice on accurizing that 700 BDL. That was another question I had. Where would you prioritize a trigger job versus those other accurizing actions you mentioned. Also curious about your recommendation of the mag box being lose between the floor plate and action. How can I tell if it's lose and how does it impact accuracy?

Thanks!
 
Which trigger does your rifle have in it? Remington 700 triggers tend to be quite usable, with the older Walker (pre-X-Mark and X-Mark Pro) units being especially nice, with a crisp release and no creep. It's easy to bring them down to 4 or 4.5 pounds, without screwing up the sear engagement. If a sub 4 pound trigger is desired, then Timney and TriggerTech are great options.

If you're only going to make one change at a time, then I recommend floating the barrel and bedding the recoil lug/action first since this is likely to net the most improvement.
 
Which trigger does your rifle have in it? Remington 700 triggers tend to be quite usable, with the older Walker (pre-X-Mark and X-Mark Pro) units being especially nice, with a crisp release and no creep. It's easy to bring them down to 4 or 4.5 pounds, without screwing up the sear engagement. If a sub 4 pound trigger is desired, then Timney and TriggerTech are great options.

If you're only going to make one change at a time, then I recommend floating the barrel and bedding the recoil lug/action first since this is likely to net the most improvement.
My BDL is about 30 years old, trigger is crisp, but stiff.
 
Nice.

I've got two 700s with very nice factory triggers. One is 22 years old, and the other is about 45. After a weight adjustment, they're both the equal of the 4 pound Timney 510s I installed in others to replace X-Mark PROs.

It's very likely that there's a small section of the stock a few inches in front of the recoil lug that's making contact with the barrel. Floating the barrel and bedding the action (even without screw pillars) will probably surprise you with the improvement.
 
100% Put a 180 in it and it should seat fine, then check to see if it's an 11 twist instead of a 10.

But that aside, IMO 2MOA+ isn't something minor like seating depth, it's something major like a warped stock or bad barrel fouling or something is loose. As much as I love old blued scopes (and I have several) a scope issue can't be ruled out on that rifle.

I have a very similar vintage rifle that shoots very well for what it is, but scope adjustments are entirely hit and miss with it. Basically I check zero and never touch the knobs for as long as possible, accepting the reduced precision that comes along with it to keep the scope on the gun.
QuietTexan,

I was trying to track down your other post (could find, but not reply) where you suggested I looked at my blued Leupold VX-2 to ensure I don't have a scope issue. That scope is actually not all that old. Probably put it on 12 to 15 years ago and I bought it new. That was about the Last of the Mohicans for glossy blue scopes which I do really like. I'm going to take the forum team's advice and get my 700 BDL glass bedded, free floating with aluminum pillars. I'll keep my eye on the scope but I have not seen any evidence that it is squirrely. Obviously lephold has a lifetime guarantee. I have a Model 70 Winchester super deluxe in .270 that is about a quarter MOA rifle. When I first had that I noticed a cant the reticle and could not duplicate my point of aim. I sent it back to Leupold for repair they said they no longer built the camming mechanism for it and we're kind enough to send me a $1,300 VX-5 3x15. That Model 70 is now a tack driver! Just trying to get my model 700 30:06 to at least one MOA to increase my shooting enjoyment and ability to place a very accurate and ethical shot on game.
 
Is mag length a published number for each firearm? How do I determine it?
Max Mag length, use a caliper and measure the distance of your magazine.
Detachable mag box, take it out and measure end to end. Floor box open the floor box and measure end to end.
Or you can just start to seat the bullet and stop and try and load in your mag. Keep seating it down till you have maybe. 005 to .010 thou. In your
magazine, Clearance end to end.
Hope this helps. If not pm me. 👍
 
High Brass, you will be in good shape with Sierra 165 flat base or boat tail, same for 180s. Sierra made a run recently of a 165g HPBT that is a big game bullet, either pro hunter or Game king series. These bullets are incredibly accurate and not very sensitive to seating depth. The 165g Sierra bthp is tougher than their Spitzer counter parts. R#22 with the 165s will give you some incredible accuracy with great velocity, make no mistake about this issue.
 
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