Is barrel break-in really needed for factory guns?

[J E Custom]

Waltech Jim,
Your experience speaks for itself. Excellent post! I agree wholeheartedly. I have looked at barrels with a borescope that were broke in properly compared to guns that were just "shot" and the view was staggering. It definetly makes a difference on a molecular level.
And still, none of the naysayers of barrel break-in have answered my question of why does the barrel all of a sudden get smoother and clean faster on the ??teenth shot.

+1

My experience has been the same as far as break in.

Custom barrels take less break in shots than factory barrels because of the quality of the
custom compared to the factory barrel.

I have tried both methods and found the proper break in improved the accuracy sooner,
Fouling was reduced and velocity was improved slightly.

There are several things that have been discussed that need to be cleared up. one is the
radial/circular marks in the throat area. If the proper pilot size and lubricant is used there
should be no marks.

Second, the bullet even though it is softer will wear the bore over a period of time and if the
bore is not fouled will break it in faster.

Some don't believe in break in and to each his own. But I will break in "ALL" barrels because
of the benefits I have seen with velocity, accuracy, consistency and cleaning.

Some barrels will break in after only 8 or 10 rounds other may take 50 or more depending
on how bad they are. I have seen factory barrels so rough that they will never realy break in
properly and will foul badly for there useful life.

Lapping should only be done by someone who knows what they are doing and only as a last resort. also when I lap a barrel I always re crown to sharpen up the bore edge that has been
rounded/worn down.

Fire lapping also has its place and should be used as a last resort for pitted throats or bores
from corrosive primers or poor care.

There are always exceptions to every thing and the same is true when it comes to break in
or not break in so do what ever you want because its your rifle and the performance of it is
in your hands.

J E CUSTOM

 

[elkaholic]

Later this week I should be getting a new factory rifle in 308 win and started thinking about the first few times it will be shot.
So I searched on here and found some threads on barrel break-in procedures. Maybe break-in procedures are for custom guns but I thought a hand-made barrel would already be smoothed out by the maker. Which would reduce the need for break-in in the first place.
Currently own a VS in 22-250 and a VLS in 308. Neither gun was "broken-in" using the procedures described in those threads. I just shot the guns (without letting them overheat) and cleaned them when I was done. I'd say that their accuracy was in the .5 moa dept with factory loads and a little better at times with reloads.
Some of the prescribed methods talk about the bullet smoothing out the rough spots. How can copper (even under high pressure) remove metal and/or smooth it?
Another method was to use Flitz, JB paste or steel wool. I'd be concerned that too much metal is removed. What happens if the metal removal is uneven in certain spots and good in another? Maybe that's being too anal...
I used to use Shooters Choice, CR-10, Butch's and other cleaners along with metal brushes and patches. Then I discovered Wipeout bore foam and use only nylon bristle brushes and a patch /jag combo. For the last year or so I haven't used a metal brush in my barrels and the accuracy actually got a bit better. I think that is really related to Wipeout performing a thorough cleaning of the gun.
Now if the advice is to still use a "shoot one, then clean" procedure for 10 to 20 shots, how do I do that with Wipeout? That's a waste of a lot of foam.
Some guys say they never break-in a barrel and it works for them.
So who do I listen too?
Thanks for your help

Whatever you decide, the last thing I would do is put steel wool in my barrel! IOSSO works well for minor imperfections but there is no real answer better than lapping and/or firing enough rounds to smooth things out naturally. Lapping barrels already cut to length and crowned is risky business. Use Bore Tech Eliminator to remove the copper during and after break in.....Rich

 

[Kurt]

proper way of breaking in a barrel YouTube - Proper Barrel Break-in Procedure

 

[MikeMurf0505]

That was great.
I think that is the best break in procedure I have seen yet.

Where did you get the precision rifle rest you were shooting from?

 

[blipelt]

one funny thing about the video above they never mention how big the target they shoot is. 700yds. that must be a really nice camera/huge target or their range finder is a little off.


Brent

 

[MikeMurf0505]

Nowadays, the zooms you can get from some of these cameras is unbelieveable.
A guy posted a 700 yard coyote shot and it was done with a 2000x camera zoom.

But your right, there isnt much comparison in the frame.

It was still the best rifle "break in" video I ever saw, based on what I know and have heard about the whole "break in" myth.

 

[blipelt]

You are correct on the new cam corders. Here is a video of a friend/gunsmith I get to hunt with. Lucky for myself we didn't get any footage this year when we were hunting together(not a big picture fan). Look at the first antelope harvested at 760yds. Watch as they pan back. Sure seems to be a long ways away.

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f17/ssg-2009-hunting-season-video-300jazz-51108/


Brent

 

[MikeMurf0505]

My compliments sir to both your choice of video accrutirment as well as to your good fortune in companions. She is quite the fine specimen of a woman if I do say so myself.

May I inquire sir as to the make and model of the equipment you purveyed this video with?

I genuinely enjoyed the viewing of both, if you dont mind me saying so.

 

[J E Custom]

Barrel break in is an idea sold to shooters by barrel makers who want to sell more barrels.
Barrel Break-In
Look at this article by Gale McMillan and decide for yourself.

The best way to sell barrels is to build good ones and improve the life of one .

There are many reason that we buy certain brands of barrels. Quality,barrel life,accuracy
and service. Without these attributes barrel makers don't last long.

When a barrel maker tells you to break in a barrel or not to break in a barrel it is in his
best interest to steer you in the right direction for his barrels so you will buy from him in
the future. It is nor a conspiracy.

Most barrel makers will tell you to break there barrels. A few will tell you don't worry about
it. Do what they say and you should be happy with the results.

I have tried most all barrels and strangely enough the ones that recomended breaking a
barrel in have been My best performers in all areas.

I would have to say that barrel break in is up to the individual and is not a conspiracy by
the barrel makers because if there barrels dont last long most people will not buy anymore from
them.

Quality Sells - bull $#!t smells.

J E CUSTOM

 

[justgoto]

Barrel break in is an idea sold to shooters by barrel makers who want to sell more barrels.
Barrel Break-In
Look at this article by Gale McMillan and decide for yourself.

That conspiracy theory makes no sense.

1.) From what I've gathered, 5 to 20 shots are needed. I just so happened to have 20 cartridges of load development ready to shoot. Extra shots shot, 0.

2.) I doubt the force of 60 brass brush strokes and 10 minutes of solvent time compare to the forces of the 20 copper bullets being fired. Maybe I'm wrong?

 

[new shooter]

Goodgrouper do you still think Tubb final finish would be good for new factory rifle ? I am getting a savage 111 long range hunter for grandson. The rifle is being ship form the factory to Savage Gunsmithing.com. Here is what he will do. Us a custom parallel ground recoil lug that is also oversize to transmit the energy over a larger area with less chance of flexing of recoil lug. The front ring of the action, the face of the barrel locking nut,bolt locking lugs and the bolt face are precission machined. This effectivly makes the entire action, recoil lug and barrel as if they were one uniform piece to maintain 100% concentricity with the chamder and bore. Then he will bed the stock. then he will put Ken Farrel g- force 20 moa base and tactical rings,then the new viper PST 6X24-50 FFP SCOPE. You can see i am trying to get the best i can out of a factory rifle. Do you think i should do the 20 rounds or less ? Thanks for info i would like this to be a shooter for my grandson. Joe

 

[bb204]

If your new barrel has a break in procedure, per barrel maker, and you choose not to use it because another maker said it was a "myth". Which one will you go to if your barrel doesn't perform up to your expectations ? I know what I would do. After the price, and wait, on a rebarrel, I think a few rounds of ammo and a little "wasted" time is not that much trouble. Not for me, anyway.

 

[elkaholic]

Plus 1 on that! Nothing to lose and probably something to gain.....Rich