victor3ranger
Well-Known Member
It sure doesWhen experience talks it sure makes it easier to listen.
It sure doesWhen experience talks it sure makes it easier to listen.
Vince, what twist do you have on yours???victor3ranger, all brothers, cousins, friends and I have ever shot is the 140g Nosler Combined Tec, black bullets on deer, and half a dozen with Barnes 140g ttsx. In the 90s, we shot a lot with the old 120g Nosler solid base, till we ran out of them, Both IMR7828 and Reloader number 22 with fed 215s.
Reloader number twenty-two with the 120g Nosler solid base never failed on large Kansas and Missouri bucks, never. I shot some Barnes TTSX 120 and 140g, Jumping them .050 from the lands with amazing accuracy, the 140s never failed us on deer and never killed a deer with the 120g TTSX, paper only.
Note: the 120g Nosler ballistic tips are absolutely the most accurate we ever shot out of our 7 stw's, shooting three-shot groups below .250 that repeated time and time again. We found about the 120g Barnes late in the game, but we sure killed a bunch of deer with the 120g Nosler ballistic tip also. The 120g nosler ballistic tips we believe are tougher jackets than the 140g. We had a food plot set up to be 550 yards from one tree stand, and we named this stand the STW stand.
As you can expect, primer pockets do not last long at these speeds, but these are hunting rifles only.
As Winchester brass became available, We shot Winchester brass only, the reamer we have has zero freebore, and bullets seated below the shoulder neck junction has never been a problem...we are thankful.
If you ever find any PMC Safari grade 300 Weatherby brass, it is absolutely the toughest brass we ever found to make 7 STW cases out of. We have never shot any of the newer brands of brass, but I bet it is worth having a reamer ground around their dimensions.
Is this because you don't want to measure or turn neck thickness?I need to learn from you guys about what I am going to need exactly as far as inside neck reaming so I don't run into donut problems since I have to neck down the brass
If the recess on the cutter is the same angle as the shoulder on the case you will be turning it should work. Unless you're having issues with neck clearance in your chamber the results of turning likely won't show. For peace of mind skim the neck hitting approximately 80% of the high spots.OK…..I have a question, which addresses both irregularities in neck thickness and the doughnut!
In my mind (thought process) if a pilot of proper dimension is used to maintain the proper inside diameter and maintain it's concentricity (I think that would be the correct word)……wouldn't an adjustable outside neck turner ( similar to a lathe) be more desirable?
I have an old Forster Case Trimmer with has an outside neck turner. I've only used it a few times…..only to remove some high spots on .223 Rem brass, removing a minimal amount. My thought was that giving a uniform neck thickness could do nothing but help!
Am I way off base here? memtb
If the recess on the cutter is the same angle as the shoulder on the case you will be turning it should work. Unless you're having issues with neck clearance in your chamber the results of turning likely won't show. For peace of mind skim the neck hitting approximately 80% of the high spots.
Cutting into the shoulder slightly gives excess brass a place to go.That's pretty much what I did, stopping where the shoulder started! Didn't see any noticeable improvement in accuracy ….stopped !
However, could it solve the doughnut issue! Never had a doughnut, other than Crispy Kreme! memtb
Hot Now MmmmmmmmThat's pretty much what I did, stopping where the shoulder started! Didn't see any noticeable improvement in accuracy ….stopped !
However, could it solve the doughnut issue! Never had a doughnut, other than Crispy Kreme! memtb
Dirtrax,Measure with a pin gauge. If it slides in just fine to a point then stops you have an obstruction. Solve it by removing it, live with it by seating short of it if possible or push it out with a mandrel.