Mine is exactly like the one in the video. I'll post some pictures when I get homeDid you build the One from the video or a different one
Great. I am debating whether to go the easy way, like the video, or the "long way" with components.
I can build anything electrical/electronic. Graduated from specialized highschool, a couple of lifetimes ago. I was doing research yesterday. I did not get a chance to look at the "sniper's hide" one yet. Got a few other things on my plate right now that have priority. I can just shell out the $500 - 1,500 for one like Annie, or AMP.I think if you go the "long way" and go with the type that's in sniper's hide and add a water cooling loop, it's still extremely easy to find components and set up if you've ever done any electrical work
I can build anything electrical/electronic. Graduated from specialized highschool, a couple of lifetimes ago. I was doing research yesterday. I did not get a chance to look at the "sniper's hide" one yet. Got a few other things on my plate right now that have priority. I can just shell out the $500 - 1,500 for one like Annie, or AMP.
Thinking out loud...(always thinking of the next step)..what would it take to add a temperature dial/controller
Well, I'll have to build a basic one first, but that would be something to think about
I was thinking along the infrared lines. Like I said, thinking out loud! I am an engineer, it's a disease, I can't help itTemperature controller? To monitor temperature of the case neck while annealing?
I think that would be near impossible with a sensor. I was thinking about how AMP might have created their "smart" technology into their machine and at first thought a thermal imaging camera might have been used, but there'd be no way to get a good view of case neck and shoulder. Any sensor placed close enough to the case and therefore coil to get a measurement would be fried by the induced currents on it.
I think what they did was measure the power consumption vs time for various case sizes for a "perfect" anneal and put that into a software that gives the correct time after destroying the test case. That's basically what a diy builder would do, but manually. Find what voltage setting and time gives you the result you want for a particular case type and brand and record it for future use.
I was thinking along the infrared lines. Like I said, thinking out loud! I am an engineer, it's a disease, I can't help it
AwesomeHere's an update on my build. Don't judge my quality of work on this picture! It's just a hasty wiring job to test it's function.
I can anneal the neck and shoulders to where they'll just start to glow in 4.8s and that's with thick Peterson 284win brass. I think a thinner (Hornady or Winchester) case would be done in 4s or less. If you use 750F tempilaq to determine time, it would be even shorter!
For the parts in the picture, it's a total of about $130. You could remove the ammeter and save $13ish and if you use a 24V power supply you could remove the SSR (using the timer switch to relay induction board power) and save about $15ish.
With it set up and operating as I have it set, I have to stop for a couple minutes after about 10-12 cases to let the coil cool.
I plan to plumb the copper tubing coil to a small PC computer cooling pump and fan radiator to keep the coil cool. Then continuous operation is a breeze. That adds around $35 I believe.
This has been extremely fun learning about and building. Maybe at some point I'll get a solenoid hooked up to the timer and have an automatic case dropping trap door.
Now to get a box built and do the actual wiring
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