Imperial Wax Case Lube

[LDHunter]

I would NEVER use any lube inside the neck. On the outside just a tiny bit of Imperial is plenty.

 

[7stw]

I would NEVER use any lube inside the neck. On the outside just a tiny bit of Imperial is plenty.

It does help prevent galling, inside the neck, and provides better neck tension consistency. Some guys are using dry moly, instead. With the internal neck lube, you MUST thoroughly clean cases after doing so.

 

[LDHunter]

Aha... I guess I pulled the trigger too fast. Possibly he meant before sizing. In that case.... Yes I use a tiny bit but never after sizing. My bad...

 

[oldfortyfiveauto]

It does help prevent galling, inside the neck, and provides better neck tension consistency. Some guys are using dry moly, instead. With the internal neck lube, you MUST thoroughly clean cases after doing so.

Sometimes I use dry lube, but just as often use a little Froglube paste on mop in the necks. Never cleaned after and have not seen any issues with it. What little that is there is covered by the bullet. A few grains of powder may stick in the neck when charging, but again I've seen no issues.

 

[Jud96]

I'll tell you a secret that I use for lubing inside necks to prevent galling on the expander ball or expander mandrel. I take a Q-tip and just get it damp with Hoppes #9 and wipe the inside of the neck just lightly and fast. Just enough to leave a slight bit of moisture in the case. If you do that, you'll never gall a case neck and never have one squeak or anything. When all your brass is sized, most of the Hoppes will evaporate but you can go back through with a dry Q-tip to wipe out any moisture. Then I run a stiff nylon brush through the necks. This gives me smooth, consistent bullet seating and consistent neck tension.

 

[Savage 12BVSS]

I also keep desiccant packs in each case.

I do this and believe in it. Keeps moisture and resultant rust away year round.

I don't use any lube in the neck. But I have started pushing an RCBS nylon bristle brush into the neck. One stroke, then out, seems to take out enough of the burnt powder residue that I don't have to lubricate inside the neck.

I don't use any lube in necks and have never had galling or seizing. The trick is to not clean neck insides squeaky clean bare brass. Let the carbon coat them and use a nylon neck brush once or twice in and out. Really helps with consistant neck tension. I full length resize or shoulder bump with a forster die less expander ball and spindle. Size the neck with a collet die, they don't recommend lube and I don't use any. I did use to use neck lube when I still used expander balls, they drag really hard on necks, but not since I moved to collets.

 

[ThrdKllr]

I use the Imperial dry graphite for lubing the inside of case necks. But I use the Lee Collet Die for neck sizing. With the Imperial sizing wax, I get a chatter effect when sizing that I don't get with the RCBS lube. I also get more consistent sizing. Mainly use the neck lube when turning necks. There are lots of ways to get to the same destination.

 

[Hawk in WY]

Has anyone ever used up a tin of Imperial sizing wax?

Stuff lasts forever.

 

[elf]

Has anyone ever used up a tin of Imperial sizing wax?

Stuff lasts forever.
[/QUOTE]
Not as long as Hornady Unique.

 

[Savage 12BVSS]

Still got the tin of Imperial sizing wax and Imperial dry graphite that I bought years ago.

 

[epoletna]

Pretty much forever. I have also used the Hornady Unique. A little messier to use, and will easily lead to case dents if not used very sparingly. Imperial is my go-to, especially for difficult sizing.

 

[fguffey]

Again, I have gotten into some difficult forming and sizing projects; when it happens I have trouble making Imperial look good. Problem there are smiths/reloaders that will not allow me to bring my no-name lube. They will not allow anything to work better than Dillon and or Imperial, when threatened they get mean.

I have no ideal why but this no-name stuff is as slick as okra,

Cleaning dies, I use a towel on a dowel. I always use white towels; the white towel always helps when determining if I need another white towel.

F. Guffey

 

[Jud96]

Again, I have gotten into some difficult forming and sizing projects; when it happens I have trouble making Imperial look good. Problem there are smiths/reloaders that will not allow me to bring my no-name lube. They will not allow anything to work better than Dillon and or Imperial, when threatened they get mean.

I have no ideal why but this no-name stuff is as slick as okra,

Cleaning dies, I use a towel on a dowel. I always use white towels; the white towel always helps when determining if I need another white towel.

F. Guffey

What no name lube are you referring to?

 

[aushunter1]

Just reading "Practical Guide to Reloading" by Nathan Foster. He writes that dies need to be cleaned to remove lube after use as water based wax lube can cause rusting of the die if the die is put away before it is fully dry. I read that Imperial Wax Case Lube is "water based". Is that true? I intended to clean my dies out after about 100 cases but I might only do 20 - 40 cases at a time, maybe a few weeks or months apart. So, cleaning dies once or twice a year is what I expected to do to get rid of accumulated residue.

Any advice?

Does this 'Nathan Foster' then promote another brand in his article?
Normally someone will try to do this while giving something else a plug from 'one of our sponsors'!

Also on inside neck lubing, yes I do it when I am neck sizing by using imperial graphite powder.
I find this does 2 things, prevents/reduces bullet weld, reduced friction from the sizing button.