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Imperial Wax Case Lube

Just reading "Practical Guide to Reloading" by Nathan Foster. He writes that dies need to be cleaned to remove lube after use as water based wax lube can cause rusting of the die if the die is put away before it is fully dry. I read that Imperial Wax Case Lube is "water based". Is that true? I intended to clean my dies out after about 100 cases but I might only do 20 - 40 cases at a time, maybe a few weeks or months apart. So, cleaning dies once or twice a year is what I expected to do to get rid of accumulated residue.

Any advice?
 
After a reload session I soak my dies in mineral spirits. Cut the top off a soda bottle pour in spirits set the dies in.
Insofar as using Imperial wax I found spraying case lube from Midway much better.
 
Been very happy with Imperial Case Lube. Use sparingly -- just a touch on the finger tip swirled around the case, then size. No stuck cases, no dents. I usually wipe the case after sizing to take off what I can of what's left. Never notice any rusting, but then not much rusts in northern Nevada! Good lube.
 
I have been using Imperial for about 20 years now, and I have never had any rusting in my dies. Illinois in the summer is very humid. I do control the humidity somewhat in my reloading room with a small window AC set on power saver though.
 
I've used Imperial lubes for at least 15 yrs, but recently, picked up some of the Hornady lube wax, which is similar, but has inhibitors, for corrosion, and rust, but never actually had issues with Imperial, it was that my dealer carries the Hornady product, its similar, and it works!
 
Imperial all the way. I'm clean my dies with brake cleaner and lube after each use. I also keep desiccant packs each each case.
Pay particular attention to the neck area. I get build up occasionally, and have found that if I remove the decapping pin, and ferrel, and put a bore brush, on a drill, a gently polish it out, keeping it wet with oil, or brake clean. I have one particular set, or brand, that builds up, in this area frequently, and has to be done once in a while. It actually will leave scratches in the brass. Once polished, smooth again!
 
If you want to make your own lube you just need this: lanolin, 99% isopropyl alcohol (must use 99%), and a squirt bottle. Just mist the the 1:12 mixture (1oz lanolin, 12oz alcohol) into a one gallon ziplock bag, dump in your brass and shake. Dump it out and let it sit a few minutes and size. Tumble it off and load. All this stuff can be had on Amazon. Cheap and works great! This will speed up your loading process greatly!
 

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I've never had any corrosion issues with my dies in my 40 years of loading. Even when I put my weapons away for several years. In the last years, I've added a desiccate pack to each die box for extra protection. The packets are a "benefit" of having so many meds. The packs can be dried by either heating an oven to the lowest setting then turning it off and putting the packs on a cookie sheet to dry. Recently I've added a food dehydrator to my tools to dry brass so I now use it to dry the packs.,
 
I used Imperial for years and never had that problem,. I switched to Hornady Unique lube recently cause it is much cheaper and a tub lasts a long time.

I also use Unique, good stuff. I bought some Imperial just to try it out, and it's great, but I'm used to the Unique consistency so usually end up going back to that, plus a 2 Oz tub seems to last forever.
 
Lanolin creme works good for a smear on lube. I swipe the top of the goo with my right index finger then smear that coating on my left palm. Pick up 6-8 308 sized cases and roll them between yer palms. Plenty of lube. I use this for low volume loading.


For high volume loading I use the lanolin spray.
 
I don't use any lube in the neck. But I have started pushing an RCBS nylon bristle brush into the neck. One stroke, then out, seems to take out enough of the burnt powder residue that I don't have to lubricate inside the neck.
 
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