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If you had to do it over

I stopped by a few places last night to see what's available for ammunition locally, .308 at all three, 7-08 at two of three, 6.5 Creedmoor at one of three, and .260 at one of three. For reloading; .30, 7mm, and 6.5mm were available at one and another carried .30 and 7mm. Even though the 308 is the most available, the availability of high quality ammo wasn't any better or worse for any.

The mags and long actions would require me to sell the action I have and start over, not a huge deal but I'd rather keep going with the short action. I didn't really notice any short mag ammunition anywhere... Not even sure I could make a short mag work for my action... Could I? Should I?[/Q






My understanding is all 200s are the same receiver length, short action cartridge models use a different bolt baffle and magazine parts, which are easily swapped out if you want to build around a different cartridge. To verify, check the spacing of the action screws and compare to the spec for the Savage models.
 
you might be in a little bit of a bind, but I would think that the 7mm mag would be a good choice as well.

and I know I am going to start yet another discussion here, you could dip to a 6.5 long action of some flavor and have less recoil if your shot placement is good, but that means you are going to need to spend closer to the $3000 range for a good setup.

my 6.5 suggestions would be the 6.5-06 (which loaded ammo is now available through mail-order mostly but not at Wal-Mart) the 6.5-285 is a very popular round now that is fairly available at Cabela's and such like.

and then there is the 270. this would be a good choice as well.

on all of these though, if you plan to have wife, kids shoot and with your shoulder issues, a break and heavy barrel is a MUST.

one more thing to make this a marathon post: you might try a thumbhole stock. when you fire a rifle with a thumbhole, your hand take a certain amount of recoil. some guys don't like them because they say after 20-30 rounds, their hand starts to hurt, but then that should be a good thing for you because you are saving your shoulder. just a thought on that.
Anyone who is taking recoil with their hand in a thumbhole stock isn't using it correctly. You should be pulling it into your shoulder, not bracing against it with your hand and arm.

Trying to shoot one in such a manner with any sort of heavy recoiling rifle is a recipe for serious wrist injuries.
 
Anyone who is taking recoil with their hand in a thumbhole stock isn't using it correctly. You should be pulling it into your shoulder, not bracing against it with your hand and arm.

Trying to shoot one in such a manner with any sort of heavy recoiling rifle is a recipe for serious wrist injuries.

Roger that!!!
 
I would like to hunt for everything here in WA at some point. Black tail, black bear, elk, moose, goat, sheep. Recoil is an issue because of a low budget and my family only having one rifle for everyone. Also, I have had multiple shoulder surgeries and target shooting gets un-fun quickly with recoil for me.

Simplify the equation, realistically, the odds are against you ever getting a Washington moose goat or sheep, so set aside the money for those applications, and don't get on that track. It doesn't alter your ballistic needs much as a big fall bear can be tough nut to crack

Multiple shoulder injuries, may mean a light weight rifle as well. In a light rifle recoil goes up. I think one of the 6.5's is the way to go, with the heavier for caliber, well constructed bullets being about the minimum for bears here.

I've got a thumbhole stock, on a .338 RUM, and felt recoil seems better to me. It could be the overall stock configuration, as its a lot straighter, and i've always preferred more "classic" styled stocks. WildRose and Roy, having me wondering if I'm using to it's best advantage, but overall I like the feel of it. Headed to the safe when I'm done here to review what I'm doing.

When managing weight I think for your purposes, a long action is worth the additional weight, as it opens the door to the 6.5x284 (the parent .284 Wnchester belongs in the conversation also) the 6.5-06, or the 6.5x55

It's not if I would start over, it's how i would start over. Trial and error is a good teacher, but those private lessons are expensive. There are a lot more quality builders out there these days, I'd save pennies, sell plasma and commission one to build me one, plus a good scope, or be patient and monitor the classifieds for used one. Best wishes.
 
Since the LR development process for me was a learning process that took place over many years, making the OP's question "what would you do over?" is difficult to answer. Personally, I think I could better answer. "what are the "most" important things you have learned?"

-Consistently being able to hunt/kill an animal at long range is a lot more difficult than paper punching small groups at long range.
-1000ft/lbs accurately placed on your quarry is far better than 2000ft/lbs poorly placed. Accuracy and shootability trumps power.
-You don't always "have" to use a custom rifle to successfully hunt at long range

Just some thoughts
 
on your stevens short action, for a hunting rifle get the E.R. Shaw barrel kit and get a 308 or 7-08. good shots with good bullets will kill anything, and both of those can be easy to load or find bullets for. also relatively light recoil with decent low recoil offerings if necessary. that action, Hogue overmolded stock and a good 3-9 scope and you're ready to go, simple cheap and effective

There is a lot of very good advise in this thread.

IIWM and I had your parameters of game possibilities, ammo availability and low recoil, it would be down to the 308 vs 7-08 and at the moment leaning on the 7-08 as described above. Perhaps with a brake.

Until you reload "Hornady Custom Lite" is available and in stock for both to cover recoil sensitivity.
 
Thanks to the inputs, I bought a 7-08 varmint barrel from the classifieds. Thinking the added weight will help a little with recoil and keeping steady on the mountain to place shots the best.

I don't really care for thumbhole stocks because of the safety location. I do like pistol grips though (lot of time behind M4s) I was thinking something like a biathlon style would be comfortable. Who makes that grip style? Am I completely off base wanting something like that on a hunting rifle?
 
I'm gonna add my two bits into the conversation.

I started at age 12 with a 7mm with the muzzle brake. It was less then ideal. It took years for me to learn how to shoot without being recoil sensitive. I would shy away from the magnum calibers considering your wife will be shooting the gun. let alone your children.

Why do you feel the need to go custom? buy a 270,280,30-06, 7-08.....put a nice scope on it and be happy!

After shooting sub 1/2 MOA with my factory browning, i am happy with the route i went.

If i had to do it over, i wouldnt change a thing, I feel people that go the custom route have the money for it. Not everyone has the funds to drop 3k on a hobby.
 
Thanks to the inputs, I bought a 7-08 varmint barrel from the classifieds. Thinking the added weight will help a little with recoil and keeping steady on the mountain to place shots the best.

I don't really care for thumbhole stocks because of the safety location. I do like pistol grips though (lot of time behind M4s) I was thinking something like a biathlon style would be comfortable. Who makes that grip style? Am I completely off base wanting something like that on a hunting rifle?
Go over to Stockysstocks.com and look at the M-24 and M-40 clones. I think you'll like them.

If you had the budget the Manners MCS-T might be a good solution as well.
 
Here are a few things you have to give 100% consideration to. If you do not think these things through thoroughly you will screw up and have something you can't use for your intended purpose. In order

1. Weight of entire rig
2. Barrel Twist rate
3. Throat length


Get the wrong throat length and you won't be able to shoot long enough bullets or your bullets will be too long for the mag length. If you don't get a fast enough twist you won't stabilize the intended bullets. And above all if you get a rifle that is too heavy you will never make it to your hunting spot or won't be able to shoot free handed or out of a stand accurately (just made this mistake myself). If it's a bipod or box stand gun and you build one too light, you left some on the table that could have been added to make it more accurate and stable. I didn't mention caliber because there are numerous calibers that can be used for most applications in capable hands
 
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